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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · phu-quoc

Phu Quoc 的夜生活:夜市、烧烤街与值得熬夜品尝的宵夜

Phu Quoc 最棒的美味往往在晚上 9 点之后才登场——前提是你得知道如何避开那些专为游客开设的夜市摊位。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Expansive aerial view of a coastal town overlooking the sea under an overcast sky, showcasing natural landscapes and urban areas.
↑ Expansive aerial view of a coastal town overlooking the sea under an overcast sky, showcasing natural landscapes and urban areas.Photo by Serg Alesenko on Pexels
Tags
#phu quoc#food guide#city guide#food#street food#night market#seafood
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Phu Quoc 在日落后有着两套并行的美食体系:一套是为游客准备的,另一套则是当地人真正光顾的。两者都值得了解,但它们并非同一去处,价格也大相径庭。

    Dinh Cau 夜市——显而易见的起点

    位于 Tran Hung Dao 大街的 Dinh Cau 夜市是每家旅馆都会推荐的首选之地。如果你抱着合理的预期前往,这里倒是一个不错的起点。夜市每晚从 5 点左右持续到 11 点,沿着海滨延伸约 200 米,从新鲜海鲜、烤玉米到丝绸围巾应有尽有。这里的价格偏高——一盘烤鱿鱼售价在 120,000–180,000 VND 之间;一碗“bun quay”(Phu Quoc 特有的手工面条汤)在夜市摊位要卖到 50,000–70,000 VND,而步行十分钟到侧街的小店只需 35,000 VND。

    这里的海鲜串烧还算不错。椒盐烤蟹钳(cang cua nuong muoi ot)味道确实很好,在岛上很难找到比这更好的。只需指着冰柜里看起来新鲜的食材,上烤架前谈好价格,并留意找零即可。

    避坑指南:这里的 banh mi 摊位性价比极低。往内陆走两个街区,同样的法棍三明治只需 25,000 VND,而不是 45,000 VND。

    这里绝非南方的 Bui Vien —— 这其实是件好事

    Phu Quoc 没有像 Saigon 那样专门的背包客街。Tran Hung Dao 的酒吧区喧闹且针对跟团游客,但美食区向居民区延伸,那里环境更安静,价格也更实惠。到了晚上 9 点,真正的美食活动才开始。

    街头市场摊位上在明火上烤鱼。

    图片来源:Quang Nguyen Vinh,来自 Pexels

    Bach Dang 与晚上 9 点后的烧烤街

    从 Dinh Cau 向北前往 Bach Dang 大街及其平行的几条小巷。晚上 8:30 到 9 点左右,木炭烟火气开始在这里聚集。成群的“quan nhau”(吃喝聚会点)在人行道上摆起塑料桌,营业至午夜甚至更晚。

    烤什么:

    • Oc len xao dua — 椰奶香茅炒黑蜗牛。一份(约 300 克)售价 60,000–80,000 VND,配有面包蘸汁食用。
    • Muc nuong mo hanh — 葱油烤墨鱼。比鱿鱼更有嚼劲,风味更佳。根据大小售价约 90,000–120,000 VND。
    • Banh trang nuong — 炭火烤米纸,上面铺有鸡蛋、葱花、虾米和辣椒酱。Phu Quoc 版本会在底部抹上一层虾酱(mam ruoc)。每张 20,000–30,000 VND。

    这里的蜗牛摊位大多是越南家庭和当地年轻人。你会听到很多人点 bia hoi——这种生啤每杯仅售 10,000–15,000 VND。如果你想体验当地人的饮食,且每人预算在 150,000–200,000 VND 左右,这些地方就是你的首选。

    甜品推车与甜蜜滋味

    晚上 9 点后,30 Thang 4 大街的环岛附近以及 Nguyen Trai 沿线会出现推车摊位。这些是甜品摊——以“che”(甜汤)为主。Phu Quoc 的当地版本几乎都以椰奶为基底:che chuoi(椰奶香蕉木薯甜汤)、che dau xanh(绿豆甜汤)、che ba mau(三色豆甜汤)。

    一杯售价 15,000–25,000 VND。推着玻璃柜的流动摊贩通常比固定摊位更可靠——因为流动摊贩周转率高,配料更新鲜。晚上 10 点后,找那些当地人排队最长的摊位准没错。

    此外值得寻找的还有“kem bo”(牛油果冰淇淋),装在牛油果皮里,撒上盐并淋上炼乳。Phu Quoc 盛产优质牛油果,这是品尝它们的绝佳方式。

    在 Kon Tum 准备越南街头小吃(含椰子和酱汁)的摊贩特写。

    图片来源:Thái Trường Giang,来自 Pexels

    当地人深夜真正去哪吃

    如果想在晚上 9 点后吃顿正经的坐下餐,Duong Dong 镇中心区域——特别是主市场大楼(Cho Duong Dong)后面的街道——比海滨区域活跃得更晚。这里的 Com tam(碎米饭)店营业至晚上 11 点,提供猪排、猪皮丝和 cha trung(蒸蛋饼),每盘 50,000–70,000 VND。这是日常饮食,而非游客餐,味道和价格上的差异显而易见。

    当地的鱼露——Phu Quoc nuoc mam——出现在每张桌上的小调料瓶里。它比内陆鱼露颜色更深,鲜味更浓郁。千万别错过。

    实用贴士

    Phu Quoc 的夜间安全状况普遍良好——与 Saigon 或 Hanoi 相比,小偷小摸较少,但将包袋留在露天摊位无人看管仍是不明智的。主要的“价格高地”是 Dinh Cau 和紧邻的海滨区域;往回走两三个街区,大多数商品的价格会下降 30–40%。午夜后的侧街很难打到出租车——请在需要之前提前用 Grab 预约,不要等到最后才叫车。