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  3. 早餐来一份 Bo La Lot:你可能错过的西贡清晨炭烤美味
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

早餐来一份 Bo La Lot:你可能错过的西贡清晨炭烤美味

大多数游客只在晚餐时才接触到 Bo La Lot。其实,西贡的清晨摊贩供应得更早、价格更便宜,味道也更地道——以下是推荐去处及点餐指南。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Savor the rich flavors of a Vietnamese noodle soup with pork, served in a bowl with chopsticks.
↑ Savor the rich flavors of a Vietnamese noodle soup with pork, served in a bowl with chopsticks.Photo by FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels
Tags
#bo la lot#ho chi minh city#guide#food#street food#breakfast#district 3#district 8
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    大多数人接触“Bo La Lot”(用柠檬草和香料腌制的碎牛肉,裹在蒌叶中用炭火烤制)时,通常将其视为一道晚餐菜肴,一种下酒小食。这种认知让你错过了西贡最棒的早餐习惯之一。在一些街区,尤其是第3郡和第8郡,有些摊贩在早上7点前就开始生火烤制,通常9点左右就售罄了。

    这并非什么新兴的潮流,而是当地清晨饮食文化的一部分,只是大多数游客因为还在睡懒觉或在酒店吃自助餐而从未体验过。

    什么是 Bo La Lot

    叶子是关键。蒌叶(Piper lolot)属于胡椒科——叶片深绿,略带蜡质,加热后会散发出一种淡淡的胡椒香气,甚至带有一丝类似八角的味道。牛肉馅通常是粗绞肉,拌入碎柠檬草、干葱、少许鱼露,有时还会加一点五香粉。每一卷都有手指长短,卷得紧实,直接放在炭火架上烤。外层的叶子被烤得焦脆,而内部则在自身的油脂中焖熟。

    标准的一份(mot dia)包含四到六卷。在清晨的摊位上,一份五卷的价格约为25,000–35,000 VND,比晚间餐厅的价格略低。

    如何享用

    这是旅游指南通常会忽略的部分。早餐吃 Bo La Lot 是“DIY”风格:配上一篮新鲜米纸(banh trang)、一盘生草本植物(rau song),以及一小碟切片的杨桃和青香蕉。你撕下一张米纸,放入一卷烤肉,加上一片薄荷或紫苏叶,再放上一片杨桃,然后松松地卷起来。杨桃的酸味可以化解牛肉的油腻;青香蕉则增加了一种淡淡的涩味,让这道菜在清晨吃起来不会感到沉重。

    蘸酱通常是花生酱底的 nuoc leo,或者是简单的 muoi tieu chanh(盐、黑胡椒和青柠汁)。在大多数清晨摊位,如果你想要口味清淡一点,可以要求加 nuoc cham gung(姜味蘸酱)。

    西贡繁忙街道上正在烤制的摊贩,周围行人往来。

    图片来源:Tuan Vy on Pexels

    去哪里吃

    Co Tuyen,第3郡

    位于 Vo Thi Sau 路靠近 Nguyen Thien Thuat 路口的那家摊位,在现任店主从她阿姨手中接手之前就已经存在了。它通常在早上6:15开门,如果去市场早的话,有时会更早。这里没有招牌,请留意人行道上摆放的低矮塑料桌,那里有一个炭火炉,一位五十多岁的女性正在亲自烤制。大多数日子里,她8:30左右就卖完了。一份五卷的 Bo La Lot 配上全套香草篮和米纸,价格为30,000 VND。隔壁店的冰“ca phe sua da”售价为20,000 VND。

    第8郡,Pham The Hien 路

    Pham The Hien 是一条漫长的商业街,穿过第8郡的工人阶级聚居区,距离滨城市场区域西南约4公里。在500号街区附近,每天早上6点到9点之间,道路两侧聚集着不少早餐摊贩。其中一家挂着红色塑料遮阳棚的夫妻摊位,专门供应 Bo La Lot 和“nem nuong”(烤猪肉香肠)。这两样搭配在一起吃非常完美。这里的价格是四卷 Bo La Lot 25,000 VND,比第3郡便宜,因为租金较低,且顾客几乎全是当地人。

    去第8郡需要专门跑一趟——它不在游客通常游览的路线周边——但这也是它魅力的一部分。你和建筑工人和摩托车快递员坐在一起吃早餐,这正是西贡(Saigon)早餐该有的感觉。

    美味的 Bo La Lot,配有新鲜黄瓜片和花生。越南美食爱好者的绝佳选择。

    图片来源:FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels

    点餐实用小贴士

    • “Cho toi mot dia bo la lot” = 我要一份 Bo La Lot。
    • “Them rau” = 多加点香草。
    • “It ot” = 少放点辣椒(如果蘸酱太辣的话)。
    • 在清晨的摊位,你到达时烤炉通常已经在运作了,所以不需要等待。坐下后,餐点很快就会送到你面前。

    如果你已经在西贡待了几天,正在尝试这座城市的各种早餐——“banh mi”、“pho”、“com tam”——那么 Bo La Lot 绝对值得一试。它既饱腹又不油腻,清晨7点在安静的小巷里闻到炭火香气,是西贡独有的感官体验,在其他地方很难复制。

    实用信息

    上述两个地点均只收现金;请准备好小额钞票(5,000–10,000 VND面额最方便)。两个地点均可免费停放摩托车。如果你从市中心前往第8郡,乘坐 Grab 摩托车大约需要15分钟,费用约为30,000–40,000 VND,具体取决于路况。