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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · sapa

Sapa 甜品之旅:从 Che 到月饼的 5 个甜蜜站点

Sapa 的甜蜜之处远不止游客咖啡馆那么简单——在迷雾与集市摊位之间,藏着糯米糕、热气腾腾的 Che 摊位以及带有苗族风味的特色小吃。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Majestic mountains and terraced fields under dramatic sky in Lào Cai, Vietnam.
↑ Majestic mountains and terraced fields under dramatic sky in Lào Cai, Vietnam.Photo by Mido Makasardi ©️ on Pexels
Tags
#sapa#food guide#city guide#food#dessert#street food#che#mooncakes#north vietnam
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Sapa 以梯田和登山靴闻名,而非甜品,但这座城镇的甜食文化绝对值得你专门绕道去探索——尤其是在 Hoang Lien Son 山脉云雾缭绕的寒冷夜晚。这是一条轻松的五站式路线,你可以在一个下午和晚上步行完成,主要集中在中心市场和 Cau May 街附近。

    第 1 站 — 夜市摊位的 Che

    从城镇下方的 Sapa 夜市开始,大约下午 5 点开市。Ham Rong 街附近带顶棚走廊的摊位出售“che”——越南甜汤,种类繁多。这里值得点的是 che dau do(红豆冰),配上椰奶和碎冰,每杯约 15,000–20,000 VND。在寒冷的夜晚,可以要求来一份热的;摊贩们会在燃气灶上一直煮着一锅,并会毫不犹豫地将其盛入塑料碗中。

    如果你是第一次尝试 che,在指点菜品前了解一下很有帮助。带有绿色调的碗通常是 che la dua(斑斓叶绿豆甜汤),浑浊的白色碗是 che dau trang(姜糖水白豆甜汤),如果看到里面漂浮着芋头块,也一定要尝尝。

    第 2 站 — 中心市场的 Banh Day 和糯米糕

    位于 Xuan Vien 街的 Sapa 中心市场从清晨营业到下午早些时候,所以请将此站安排在第二天早上,或者如果你分两天完成路线,可以安排在夜市之前。寻找那些售卖“banh day”的苗族和瑶族摊贩——这是一种小巧圆形的糯米糕,口感扎实且微甜,有时里面会包有绿豆沙。每个大约 5,000–8,000 VND。

    在 Tet 前后的几周里,这里还会出售“banh chung”(用 dong 叶包裹的方形糯米粽),但在新年期间之外,你更有可能看到它的北方亲戚——圆柱形的 banh tet。无论哪种,这都是当地人早餐真正会吃的市场食物,而不是游客菜单上那种翻译过来的“传统糕点”。

    第 3 站 — Cau May 街的月饼

    在 Tet Trung Thu(即中秋节)来临前的几周里,Cau May 街上的小型杂货店会将月饼礼盒摆满橱窗。这些不是来自 Hanoi 超市的大规模生产的 Kinh Đo 礼盒;几家商店储备了来自当地生产商或从 Lao Cai 运来的区域性品种,内馅包括莲蓉、咸蛋黄或五仁。即使在节日之外,一些商店也会全年供应月饼,供少数民族买家作为礼品使用。

    如果你正好在一年中的这个时节到访,买一个并在店里配茶享用——大多数店主都会乐意提供方便。根据内馅不同,单个月饼的价格在 25,000–60,000 VND 之间。

    探索 Lao Cai 充满活力的当地市场,展示着传统工艺品和纺织品。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Gibson Chan

    第 4 站 — Thac Bac 路的法棍冰淇淋

    这听起来比实际情况要奇怪。在 Ham Rong 山脚下和 Thac Bac 路沿线,有一群小摊贩售卖当地风味的冰淇淋——有时被称为“kem tay cam”——有棒冰或甜筒,口味包括斑斓、芋头或榴莲。价格为 10,000–15,000 VND。芋头口味一直很棒,与寒冷的空气搭配起来有一种微妙的荒诞感。

    有一位摊贩有时会在傍晚时分在主广场的石教堂附近推车售卖。她不一定每天都在,但如果车子在的话,一定要选斑斓口味的棒冰。

    第 5 站 — 广场附近的现代甜品咖啡馆

    为了给行程画上句号,过去几年里,中心广场周围的几家咖啡馆增加了甜品菜单,以迎合周末从 Hanoi(河内)前来的越南国内游客。菜单通常将越南咖啡文化与软冰淇淋、水果酸奶和受 che 启发的芭菲结合在一起。位于 Cau May 街侧巷的 Goc Xua Cafe 是当地人真正会去的一家店,拥有两层楼的室内空间,其 che com(青米甜汤)售价约为 35,000 VND。

    如果你想以热饮结束,可以点一杯“ca phe sua da(越南冰咖啡)”或热的“莲花茶”——这里的咖啡馆通常两者都有,尤其是莲花茶,在品尝了一轮甜汤和糯米糕后非常解腻。

    月饼配白茶壶和茶杯,是庆祝中秋节的完美搭配。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Nataliya Vaitkevich

    关于季节性的说明

    Sapa 的甜品场景会随天气变冷而变化。从 11 月到次年 2 月,摊贩们更倾向于热甜汤和糯米糕。在较暖和的月份(5 月至 8 月),冰淇淋推车会增多,加碎冰的冰镇 che 变得更常见。月饼在 9 月至 10 月的中秋节前后达到高峰。如果你在雨季(6 月至 8 月)到访,市场摊贩通常会在当天较晚的时间出摊以避开午后阵雨,请相应调整时间。

    实用建议

    所有五个站点都在距离中心广场约 1.5 公里的步行范围内。请准备好小面额钞票——10,000 和 20,000 VND 的纸币——因为市场摊贩很少有零钱找零 200,000 VND 的大钞。这些地方都不需要预订或提前计划;直接走过去指点即可。