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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all

Banh Deo:越南冰皮月饼完全指南

比起烘焙月饼,Banh deo 口感更软糯、花香更浓郁,是中秋节里最值得好奇食客一试的美味。以下是你需要了解的一切。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Close-up of traditional Chinese mooncakes with a hand showing the inner filling.
↑ Close-up of traditional Chinese mooncakes with a hand showing the inner filling.Photo by Change C.C on Pexels
Tags
#banh deo#deep dive#guide#food#mooncake#mid autumn#tet trung thu#street food#vietnamese sweets
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    如果你曾在越南度过 Tet Trung Thu,走过面包店橱窗里堆叠的月饼塔,你可能随手抓起的是那种外皮金黄油亮的“banh nuong”(烘焙月饼),而没多看一眼它那洁白柔软的“兄弟”。这是一个值得纠正的错误。

    “Banh deo”(意为“糯米饼”)是越南的冰皮月饼:无需烤箱,无需刷蛋液,也没有焦糖外壳。它仅由糯米粉、芬芳的玫瑰露和馅料制成。馅料从莲蓉到绿豆,再到那混合了绿豆与柚子花油的独特风味,吃起来就像是在品尝一座花园,美妙至极。

    Banh Deo 的独特之处

    其核心特征在于口感。与外皮薄而紧实的 banh nuong 不同,banh deo 质地柔韧、软糯,色泽白皙如玉。它的保质期较短——室温下两到三天,冷藏可达一周——这在一定程度上解释了为什么在追求货架期的商业面包店里,它不如烘焙月饼常见。

    饼皮由炒熟的糯米粉(bot nep)制成,并混合了糖浆和玫瑰露。混合后无需加热;只需将饼团压入精美的木制模具中定型即可。成品表面能完美呈现模具的纹理——菊花、鱼、月亮等——咬下一口之前,就能闻到淡淡的花香。

    馅料通常比 banh nuong 更甜、更细腻。经典选择是莲蓉,但绿豆沙、黑芝麻和芋头口味也已十分普遍。在 Hue,你会发现加入了柚子花油(dau buoi)的版本,那种清新的柑橘花香足以瞬间唤醒你的味蕾。

    简史

    月饼通过数百年的文化交流从中国传入越南,中国的冰皮月饼(ping pi yue bing)最初是作为烘焙月饼的凉爽替代品而发展的。越南糕点师根据当地食材和口味调整了配方——用玫瑰露糖浆取代了中国的转化糖浆;用当地莲子取代红豆作为高级馅料;模具也改为反映越南的装饰图案。

    当“中秋节”(在越南被称为 Tet Trung Thu)完全融入越南民间文化时,banh deo 已经发展成一种独特的品种,而不仅仅是中式原版的复制品。节日本身围绕着儿童、灯笼和收获之月,而 banh deo 的审美也与之契合:柔软、苍白、温和,而非烘焙月饼那种厚重的浓郁感。

    带有白茶壶和茶杯的月饼,非常适合中秋节庆祝活动。

    图片来源:Nataliya Vaitkevich,来自 Pexels

    值得了解的地区差异

    河内风格

    Hanoi 老城区的面包店倾向于制作质地更紧实、口感更内敛的饼皮,馅料多为莲蓉或绿豆沙。玫瑰露的香气存在但很微妙。这些是越南人提到经典 banh deo 时最常引用的“正统”版本——紧凑、平衡,甜度适中。

    顺化风格

    Hue(顺化)的 banh deo 则更有趣。塑造了越南中部饮食文化的宫廷烹饪传统也影响了这里的月饼。顺化风格的 banh deo 常使用柚子花油作为辅助香料,馅料质地也更细腻精致。常见的分量较小——这些是供品鉴的甜点,而非为了填饱肚子。

    西贡及南部改良版

    在 Saigon 和湄公河三角洲,你会在一些专业店铺里发现全年供应的 banh deo,而不仅仅是在 Tet Trung Thu 前后。南部版本有时会在饼皮中加入班兰叶(la dua),呈现出绿色的、带有淡淡草本清香的变体。榴莲馅也存在——正如你所料,它有非常忠实的拥趸。

    如何购买及询问

    在专门的月饼店,店员通常会问:nhan gi(什么馅?)以及 banh nuong hay banh deo(烘焙还是冰皮?)。对于初次尝试者,建议点“banh deo nhan hat sen”(莲蓉馅)——这是了解其风味最纯粹的入门选择。

    在中端面包店,单块月饼的价格根据大小和馅料不同,约为 25,000–60,000 VND。当地店铺的四块装礼盒通常从 150,000 VND 起;高端品牌和酒店面包店的精美礼盒价格可达 400,000–600,000 VND。

    如果你是在 Tet Trung Thu(农历八月十五,通常在九月)期间购物,预计面包店会在节前两到三周开始备货。在节日季之外,你需要寻找专门的糖果店(tiem banh),大众面包店或超市很少全年供应 banh deo。

    建议搭配 lotus tea 或越南绿茶。微苦的花茶能完美中和月饼的甜味。

    台北一家面包店货架上传统印花月饼的特写照片。

    图片来源:Jimmy Liao,来自 Pexels

    在哪里品尝经典版本

    河内 — Ninh Huong Bakery, 38 Hang Dieu, 老城区。 这是城中历史最悠久的月饼生产商之一。这里的绿豆和莲蓉 banh deo 就是河内家庭心目中“正宗”的味道。

    顺化 — Dong Ba Market 摊位,靠近北门入口。 在 Tet Trung Thu 期间,市场内有几个摊位会出售带有柚子花油馅的顺化风味 banh deo。没有特定的品牌——走进去询问 banh deo Hue 即可。价格通常在每块 20,000–30,000 VND 左右。

    西贡 — Kinh Do Bakery 连锁店,多家分店。 Kinh Do 是一家商业化运营的机构,但他们的 banh deo 品质稳定,随处可见,且在节前几周就会上架。如果你想体验南部改良风格,值得尝试他们的班兰叶饼皮版本。

    实用建议

    Banh deo 不耐热,不适合长途携带——如果你打算买回家,请立即冷藏并在一周内食用。月饼盒内几乎都是独立塑料包装,购买前请检查生产日期。在九月之外,寻找它的最佳场所是专门的越南糖果店(tiem banh),而不是一般的面包店或超市。