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  3. 调味品架:酱油、鱼露以及支撑起越南厨房的瓶瓶罐罐
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调味品架:酱油、鱼露以及支撑起越南厨房的瓶瓶罐罐

美极鲜(Maggi)随处可见,但它并非全部。带你了解真正定义越南烹饪的酱油、蘸料和那些发酵的“奇珍异味”。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Top view of a Vietnamese hot pot featuring assorted meats with fresh vegetables, perfect for a communal meal.
↑ Top view of a Vietnamese hot pot featuring assorted meats with fresh vegetables, perfect for a communal meal.Photo by Đậu Photograph on Pexels
Tags
#regional specialty#food#condiments#soy sauce#street food#cooking#fish sauce
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    走进任何一家越南家庭厨房或街头小吃摊,调味品架上的东西就能告诉你一切。那里总是杂乱、黏糊,却又不可或缺——那一排排瓶瓶罐罐和挤压瓶,在风味营造上比炉灶本身发挥的作用还要大。

    关于美极鲜(Maggi)的疑问

    美极鲜调味汁——那种黄色瓶盖、深色稀薄液体的调料——自法国殖民时期起就进入了越南厨房,并一直沿用至今。在“pho”店的餐桌上,在海鲜酱和辣椒酱旁边,以及从Hanoi到湄公河三角洲(Mekong Delta)各地“banh mi”摊位的备料桶里,你都能找到它的身影。

    但说美极鲜是“越南风味”其实有些牵强。它是雀巢公司生产的瑞士产品,其风味特点——谷氨酸含量极高,口感尖锐,量大时甚至带有金属味——与当地酱油截然不同。越南厨师将其用作快速提鲜的“秘密武器”或调味捷径。它不是蘸酱,也不像中式或日式酱油那样作为烹饪基底。它是一种修正性的调味品:在米饭或肉汤里滴上几滴,或者快速拌入腌料中。

    如果你在西贡(Saigon)的路边摊吃“com tam”(碎米饭),盘子端上来时除了鱼露(nuoc cham)外还有一个装着深色液体的小碟,那么这碟子里很有可能就是美极鲜,而不是酱油。许多厨师会将两者混合使用。

    本地酱油:值得了解的品牌

    本地的“xi dau”(酱油)是另一种逻辑下的产品。越南(Vietnam)超市和菜市场里最常见的两个本土品牌是 Nam Duong 和 Chinsu。Nam Duong 的酱油盐分较低,口感略甜,非常适合作为烤猪肉的腌料,或者用于那些你希望其他元素(如青柠、大蒜、辣椒)更突出的蘸酱中。Chinsu 的酱油颜色更深、咸鲜味更重,更接近你用中式生抽烹饪时的预期。

    在 Vinmart 或 Co.opmart 等超市,500毫升装的酱油价格约为 15,000–25,000 VND。在菜市场,你可能会找到更便宜的小瓶装本地产品,但质量参差不齐,有些稀释得非常严重。

    在烹饪方面,大多数越南家庭厨师会根据菜肴在 xi dau 和鱼露之间切换。酱油多用于受中国或华裔(Hoa)饮食影响的菜肴,如砂锅菜、炒菜、红烧肉。而鱼露则主宰了所有典型的越南菜:汤品、沙拉以及无处不在的蘸料 nuoc cham。

    台湾新北市市场货架上色彩缤纷的亚洲酱料和调味品。

    图片来源:Jimmy Liao,来自 Pexels

    区域性酱油

    Hoi An 有一种值得一提的特色发酵豆制品:“tuong”(发酵豆酱),它出现在“cao lau”的蘸料中,也用于当地版本的“mi quang”。它比普通的 xi dau 更浓稠、颜色更深、风味更独特——质地更像稀释的味噌,而不是可倾倒的液体。如果你在 Hoi An 吃 cao lau,发现碗边有一抹灰褐色的酱,那就是 tuong。它是这道菜的灵魂,不可或缺。

    在北方,特别是 Hanoi,北宁省(Bac Ninh)的“tuong Ban”作为一种优质的手工豆制品享有盛誉。它产自 Dinh Bang 村,以陶瓷罐装出售。其风味复杂,比工业化的 xi dau 咸度更低,并带有一种发酵带来的淡淡甜味。你可以在 Hanoi 老城区的特色食品店和同春市场(Dong Xuan Market)找到它。一个小罐售价约 40,000–70,000 VND。

    而在湄公河三角洲地区——芹苴(Can Tho)及更南的地方——酱油会变得更甜。当地人的口味偏向于此,调味品中通常会添加糖或焦糖色。三角洲地区“banh xeo”(越南煎饼)摊位的蘸酱,会比你在 Da Nang 或 Hue 吃到的同款菜肴明显更甜。

    一个木制厨房架子上摆满了各种餐具、玻璃杯和调味品。舒适的复古风格。

    图片来源:Elly Mar Tamayor,来自 Pexels

    调味品架上的其他成员

    酱油和美极鲜只是调味品架上的两个位置,架子上通常还会摆放八到十个瓶子。一个配置合理的越南厨房调味品阵容还包括:

    • Nuoc mam(鱼露):真正的基石。Phu Quoc 和潘切(Phan Thiet)是标杆产区。查看标签上的蛋白质含量——40°N 或更高意味着品质优良。
    • Tuong ot(辣椒酱):Chinsu 和 Cholimex 是家喻户晓的品牌。按国际标准来看它们都不算特别辣,但 Cholimex 的蒜蓉辣椒酱在南方拥有一批忠实粉丝。
    • 海鲜酱:在南方用于 pho 的餐桌调味(Hanoi 的 pho 店会因为你加这个而默默审视你),也是“goi cuon”(鲜虾春卷)的蘸料基底。
    • Giam(米醋):色泽浅、味道温和,用于腌制 banh mi 中用到的白萝卜和胡萝卜,也常用于各种沙拉。
    • Dau hao(蚝油):炒菜和炒空心菜(rau muong)时的必备品。
    • Mam tom(虾酱):气味浓烈,呈紫灰色,用量极省。是 bun rieu(蟹肉米粉汤)和某些北方菜肴的灵魂。新手慎试。

    买什么带回家

    如果你想购买可食用的纪念品,跳过机场卖的美极鲜,去寻找陶瓷罐装的 tuong Ban、一瓶优质的 Phu Quoc 鱼露(Red Boat 是出口品牌,当地人更推荐 Thanh Ha 或 Khai Hoan),或者一罐 Hoi An 的 tuong 酱。这三样东西都易于携带,能带来在越南境外难以复制的独特风味,而且价格比酒店酒吧里的一杯咖啡还要便宜。

    实用贴士: 越南酱油和调味品在每个菜市场、超市和便利店都有售。菜市场和传统杂货店的价格远低于面向游客的商店。如果你在越南自己做饭,Co.opmart 是跨区域连锁超市中调味品种类最齐全的选择。

    调味品架:酱油、鱼露以及支撑起越南厨房的瓶瓶罐罐 | Vietnam Wayfarer