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越南茶:绿茶、莲花茶与传统名茶指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all · hanoi

越南茶:绿茶、莲花茶与传统名茶指南

从千年古树到清雅的莲花香茶,越南茶折射出数百年的传统。了解去哪里寻找最好的茶、如何冲泡,以及为什么绿茶在越南茶文化中占据主导地位。

By the Wayfarer teamMar 10, 20265 min read
A vibrant iced tea with lotus seeds, garnished with daisies, shot outdoors in Dalat, Vietnam.
↑ A vibrant iced tea with lotus seeds, garnished with daisies, shot outdoors in Dalat, Vietnam.Photo by Luong Minh Toan on Pexels
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#tea#green tea#lotus tea#jasmine tea#herbal tea#drinks#thai nguyen#da lat#culture
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    越南 (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム) 的茶文化比表面上看起来更加宁静。年长的饮茶者常在吟诗、插花或清晨的阳台上泡上一壶茶。年轻一代也开始重新发现茶的魅力。大多数越南人更偏爱清淡的茶——绿茶、白茶、带有淡淡花香的茶,而不是其他地方常见的重度发酵茶。

    数据能说明一部分问题。绿茶占茶叶零售总量的63%以上。越南拥有世界上最古老的一些茶树,部分树龄超过千年。然而,在近几十年之前,亚洲大陆以外的地区对越南茶知之甚少。但这种情况正在改变。自由企业正积极将越南绿茶出口到国际市场,而 Hanoi 和 Ho Chi Minh City 的精品茶店也在向当地人和游客介绍那些曾被忽视的区域风土特色茶。

    越南最好的茶产自哪里

    北部的 Thai Nguyen(太原省)是核心产区。在法国殖民统治时期,Thai Nguyen 茶被认为是整个印度支那地区最好的茶——这一美誉至今仍被广泛认可。成立于1998年7月19日的越南茶叶协会(VITA)为全国各地的种植者和贸易商提供支持。

    其他著名产区:

    • 广宁省(东北海岸)的 Ha Coi
    • Thai Nguyen 的 Tan Cuong, Dong Hy, La Bang(行业标杆)
    • 富寿省的 Tan Son
    • Ha Giang(极北地区)的 Tay Con Linh
    • 山罗省(西北高地)的 Ta Xua
    • 安沛省的 Suoi Giang
    • 林同省(中部高原 (중부 고원 / 中部高原 / 中部高原),靠近 Da Lat)的 Bao Loc, Cau Dat
    • Ha Giang 的 Cao Bo

    大部分茶叶产自北部和中部高地,那里的海拔、土壤和雾气为培育娇嫩、带有花香的茶叶创造了绝佳条件。

    绿茶:日常标配

    越南的“xanh”(绿茶)是人们的日常饮品。高品质的绿茶——尤其是来自 Thai Nguyen 省 Tan Cuong 乡的绿茶——入口时会先有一丝苦涩,随后化作深沉、持久的回甘,萦绕在唇齿之间。

    Tan Cuong 的茶叶按芽头大小分级:dinh non(未展开的细小嫩芽,特级)、tom non(一芽一叶的小嫩芽)和 moc cau(较大的叶片)。茶叶被轻轻揉捻成新月形,尽量减少人工干预,从而保持其浓郁的茶气。

    正确的冲泡方法:水温70°C (160°F),浸泡时间不超过2分钟。浸泡时间过长会变苦——有些茶客偏爱这种苦味,以感受茶的“骨架”。同一泡茶叶可以反复冲泡3到4次。每一次冲泡,茶汤都会变得更加柔和,展现出第一泡时被掩盖的微妙风味。

    越南绿茶

    图片由 Binh Giang 提供,来自 Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

    花茶与特色茶

    莲花茶

    “Sen”茶(莲花茶)是越南的特色杰作。高品质的绿茶茶叶被放置在新鲜的莲花中静置一天,吸收花朵那若有似无的清香。顶级版本甚至会将莲花花瓣直接与茶叶混合。这种茶通常只在特殊场合饮用——比如作为礼物、正式拜访,或者在某个宁静的清晨,当你想要一种充满仪式感的体验时。

    茉莉花茶

    “Lai”茶(茉莉花茶)比莲花茶更为浓烈。香气显著,口感更清爽。在城市里,茉莉花茶常扮演配角:喝完 越式冰咖啡 后,将茉莉花茶倒入剩余的咖啡渣中,冰镇后饮用,作为清爽的收尾。在温暖的夜晚,咖啡馆成为社交中心,而这种“先咖啡,后喝茶”的顺序已经成为一种仪式。

    雪山茶 (Shan Tuyet)

    这种茶由 Lao Cai、Yen Bai 和 Ha Giang 山区古树的茶叶制成,带有老树特有的、近乎矿物质的独特风味。

    菠萝叶茶 (香兰茶)

    这是越南中部的特产:将绿茶与茉莉花、米仔兰(Aglaia duperreana)、罗勒和斑斓叶(pandan leaves)混合。泡出的茶香气扑鼻,带有淡淡的甜味——一种与众不同的草本风味。

    洋蓟茶

    由洋蓟的叶、根、茎和花泡制而成的草本茶。它是 Lam Dong 的特产,尤其是在 Da Lat 周边,洋蓟在凉爽的高地生长茂盛。人们饮用它是为了其健康益处——养肝、助消化。

    苦丁茶

    越南的“Dang”茶(苦丁茶)名副其实。它因富含抗氧化剂而备受推崇,在传统医学中常被用于治疗头痛、高血压、发烧或糖尿病。苦味正是它的精髓——这标志着它的药效。

    金花茶

    由金花茶(Camellia chrysantha)的叶子制成,因该植物独特的金黄色花朵而显得尤为珍贵。

    芽茶

    “Che nui”是高档茶:仅使用未开放的茶树花蕾,经过干燥后冲泡。口感细腻、优雅,价格不菲。

    越式清凉茶 (Voi Tea)

    由水翁(Cleistocalyx operculatus)的芽和叶制成的传统草本茶。饮茶者看重它的清凉解渴和助消化的功效。

    其他泡茶

    菊花(“cuc”)、米仔兰(“ngau”)、绞股蓝(“giao co lam”)、何首乌(“ha thu o”)和金粟兰(“tra soi”)完善了这份茶单。越南饮茶者非常喜爱带有花香的茶饮——茶汤越清淡、香气越浓郁越好。

    越南茶具

    图片由 Tonbi ko 提供,来自 Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

    走向现代化的茶文化

    越南的茶文化历史悠久,但并未停滞不前。年轻的饮茶者正在重新发现祖辈们的智慧。如今,大城市里的精品茶店会采购单一产地的茶叶,并向顾客普及风土、加工和冲泡技巧——这些原本借用于葡萄酒的术语,正越来越多地应用于茶文化中。出口的增长意味着越南的绿茶、莲花茶和草本茶正在走向国际爱好者,让他们认识到越南的茶传统足以媲美亚洲任何一个国家。

    如果你在 Thai Nguyen,一定要去参观茶园。如果你在 Hanoi 或 Ho Chi Minh City,找一家供应“sen”(莲花茶)或“lai”(茉莉花茶)的茶馆。这种仪式感——那份宁静、茶杯的温度、风味的缓慢绽放——才是品茶的真谛。

    常见问题解答

    如何冲泡越南绿茶以避免苦涩?

    使用70摄氏度(160华氏度)的水,浸泡时间不超过2分钟。浸泡时间越长苦味越重,尽管有些饮茶者偏爱这种方式以体验茶的浓烈。同一泡茶叶可以反复冲泡3到4次——每一次冲泡,茶汤都会变得更加柔和,展现出第一泡时被掩盖的微妙风味。来自 Thai Nguyen 的高品质 Tan Cuong 茶叶入口时会先有一丝苦涩,随后化作持久的回甘。

    Tan Cuong 茶与其他越南绿茶有何不同?

    Tan Cuong 是 Thai Nguyen 省的一个乡——自法国殖民统治以来,这里一直被视为越南的茶叶核心产区。这里生产的茶叶按芽头大小分级:dinh non(未展开的细小嫩芽,特级)、tom non(一芽一叶的小嫩芽)和 moc cau(较大的叶片)。茶叶被揉捻成新月形,尽量减少人工干预以保持其浓郁的茶气。Thai Nguyen 曾被认为是整个印度支那地区最好的茶区,这一美誉至今仍被广泛认可。

    在越南茶文化中,莲花茶通常在什么时候饮用?

    莲花茶(被称为 sen)通常只在特殊场合饮用,而不是日常饮品。高品质的绿茶茶叶会在一天的时间里吸收新鲜莲花的香气。顶级版本甚至会将莲花花瓣直接与茶叶混合。它常出现在正式拜访、作为礼物赠送时,或者在某个宁静的清晨,当场合需要一种更接近仪式感而非日常解渴的体验时。