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在Nghe An吃什么:旅客美食指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · central · nghe-an

在Nghe An吃什么:旅客美食指南

Nghe An的美食融合了沿海海鲜、高山香草和受该省地理与历史影响的平民菜肴。以下是当地人真正就餐的地方,以及物有所值的美食推荐。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 2, 20264 min read
A bustling Vietnamese market stall with diverse dried goods and spices on display.
↑ A bustling Vietnamese market stall with diverse dried goods and spices on display.Photo by Tuan Vy on Pexels
Tags
#nghe an#what to eat#central#seafood#market food#street food
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Last updated · May 19, 2026 · independently researched, never sponsored.

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    Nghe An濒临北部湾,内陆群山环绕,这意味着这里的美食并不追求花哨——它质朴纯粹,以食材为本,完全取决于海洋和农场的馈赠。如果你路过这里,会发现一些在Hanoi或Saigon见不到的菜肴,而且价格非常接地气。

    值得一试的地方特色美食

    提到Nghe An的美食,人们首先想到的就是“Mam tom”。这是一种发酵虾酱,气味刺鼻、风味独特,是当地人味蕾中绝对不可或缺的一部分。在几乎每一个市场摊位和家庭餐馆,你都能看到它作为调料,搭配着“banh cuon”(蒸米粉卷)或烤鱼一起端上桌。在市场上,一小罐自制的“mam tom”售价在20,000–40,000 VND之间;如果你不习惯发酵海鲜,在尝到味道之前就会先被它的气味“劝退”。当地人吃起来毫不犹豫,而游客对它则是爱恨两极分化。

    “Ca loc xao sai”是另一道招牌菜——用莳萝和姜黄爆炒鲶鱼,最后撒上酥脆的炸红葱头。莳萝是这道菜的灵魂;它不是点缀,而是中和鱼肉油腻感的关键配料。在省会Vinh港口区附近的家庭经营海鲜店里,你就能找到这道菜。一盘供两三人食用的分量,价格大约在60,000–120,000 VND之间。

    “Banh canh ca chua”(木薯面配鲶鱼)在省外不太常见,但却是平民餐馆菜单上的常客。面条本身紧实微弹,由木薯粉制成,搭配清淡的高汤、大块鲶鱼肉和青菜。这是一种抚慰人心的家常美食——虽然不精致,但口感与你在越南其他地方吃到的“banh canh”截然不同。一碗的价格在30,000–50,000 VND之间。

    当地人真正就餐的地方

    Vinh中心市场(Cho Vinh)是这座城市真正的脉搏。别指望在这里拍出适合发Instagram的网红照——请在早上6:30前往,那时市场里挤满了建筑工人、三轮车夫和退休老人。这里没有英文菜单,没有游客价,只有纯粹的食物。你会发现卖搭配“mam tom”的“banh cuon”(35,000 VND)、烤鱼肉串(每串5,000 VND)以及配有烤鲶鱼或猪肉的“com tam”(碎米饭,30,000–40,000 VND)的摊位。吧台座位是塑料凳,荧光灯刺眼,而早餐后的咖啡浓郁又便宜。

    如果想坐下来好好吃顿饭,可以在Le Loi街和Hang Dau街的巷子里寻找小型家庭餐馆(com nha)。这些地方没有被贴上旅游景点的标签。你可以看着黑板点菜,或者直接指着厨房里正在炖煮的食物。一顿包含汤、蔬菜、肉类和米饭的丰盛餐点,价格在50,000–80,000 VND之间。聚集在Cua Lo海滩(Vinh以东约20 km处)附近的海鲜店按市场价出售新鲜捕捞的海产;你挑好鱼,店家负责烤或蒸,然后你在简陋的露天茅草棚里就着米饭和青菜享用。

    海鲜特产

    Nghe An的沿海盛产白鱼、鱿鱼和虾。这里的烤鱿鱼通常会在香茅和辣椒中腌制过夜,然后在炭火上烤制。一份(200–300克)的价格根据餐厅档次的不同,在80,000–150,000 VND之间。在Cua Lo,你可以直接坐在海滩上用餐,价格与在镇上吃相差无几——区别在于氛围,而不是花费。

    这里的“Hu tieu”(猪肉清汤木薯面)会加入额外的海鲜高汤和当地白鱼熬制。汤头清淡却层次分明,与南方的“hu tieu”风格截然不同。在小型面馆里就能吃到,价格在35,000–55,000 VND之间。

    五条鱼在质朴的沙地烧烤架上烤制,周围环绕着岩石和自然的海滩元素。

    照片由Alexis Ricardo Alaurin发布于Pexels

    避雷指南

    在Vinh火车站附近或专门面向背包客、提供过胶彩色菜单的餐厅,通常会收取高出市场价2到3倍的费用,但菜品质量却很平庸。标有“特产”的牛肉菜肴通常定价过高;建议只点海鲜和猪肉。提供“当地美食体验”的旅游团通常会把你和其他游客捆绑在一起,带去导游亲戚开的餐厅——食物还可以,但溢价也是实打实的。

    饮品与甜点

    “Ca phe sua da”(炼乳冰咖啡)在越南各地的配方都一样,但Nghe An的咖啡使用的是深度烘焙的豆子。一小杯售价15,000–20,000 VND。如果想吃点甜的,一些甜品摊位会出售“che ba cot”(一种加入木薯珍珠的草本椰奶饮品),价格为10,000–15,000 VND。

    虾片(“banh trang nuong”)在Vinh的几家作坊新鲜现做,按重量出售;100克的价格在20,000–30,000 VND之间。咬下去时会发出清脆的咔嚓声。

    俯视图:令人垂涎的传统越南菜肴,碗中盛有炸豆腐、切块黄瓜和水煮面条,摆放在桌上

    照片由Quang Nguyen Vinh发布于Pexels

    消费预期

    市场早餐:25,000–40,000 VND。 家庭餐馆的午餐或晚餐:每人50,000–100,000 VND。 Cua Lo的海鲜大餐:每人100,000–200,000 VND(含啤酒)。 咖啡:15,000–25,000 VND。 街头小吃:5,000–20,000 VND。

    这里的物价远低于Hanoi或Saigon。Nghe An的美食更便宜,因为该省的游客较少,劳动力成本也更低。同样的经济规律也意味着菜单上的英文更少,且不能完全套用全球通用的食品安全标准,所以尽量选择客流量大且能看到烹饪过程的地方就餐。

    实用贴士

    从Hanoi前往Nghe An最便捷的方式是乘坐巴士(6–7小时)或火车。主要的美食集中在省会Vinh,不过如果你有时间,距离20 km的Cua Lo海滩能提供截然不同的就餐体验。清晨在市场就餐是品尝新鲜正宗美食的最佳选择;晚上9点以后,餐馆的客人就会逐渐变少。记得带上现金——较小的店铺不接受刷卡。