最后更新 · Jul 18, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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会安那晶莹剔透的虾饺出自同一个家庭作坊。当一日游的游客散去后,去哪里寻找这份美味呢?

最后更新 · Jul 18, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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会安不乏声称是本地特色的菜肴,但“banh bao banh vac”——也就是大家所说的白玫瑰饺子——才真正当得起这个称号。镇上每一家供应这道菜的餐厅,其饺子皮都从同一家店采购:位于 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai 街的 Truong 家族,他们已经传承了三代人。你在其他地方吃到的,都是他们制作的。这就是这里的规矩。
到了晚上,当古镇的旅游团散去,Bach Dang 沿岸的灯笼不再是拍照的背景板,而是变得惬意起来,此时,白玫瑰饺子是让你继续坐在路边塑料凳上的绝佳理由。
这种饺子个头很小,两三口一个,饺子皮薄如蝉翼,透出里面的虾仁馅料。蒸熟后,边缘被捏起并向外翻开,像一朵盛开的花,名字也因此而来。它们通常搭配一种比普通 nuoc cham(鱼露蘸料)更鲜亮、更酸爽的蘸酱,上面还会撒上炸葱花。在大多数坐式餐厅,一盘八到十个饺子的价格在 35,000 到 55,000 VND 之间。建议直接点两盘,因为第一盘消失的速度绝对比你想象的要快。
别把它和越南(베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)其他地方常见的“banh bao”搞混了——那是里面包着鸡蛋和猪肉的大号发面馒头。完全是两码事。白玫瑰饺子口感细腻,本是适合凉爽天气的食物,但不知为何在会安的潮湿气候中也同样美味。
这是 Truong 家族自营的餐厅,位于 533 Hai Ba Trung,这意味着他们现场制作、填充并蒸制饺子。这是最正宗的版本:味道纯正,品质稳定,无需多虑。他们通常在 21:00 到 21:30 左右关门,所以更适合作为傍晚的用餐点,而不是深夜食堂。每盘价格约为 45,000 到 55,000 VND。店面较小,在 18:00 到 20:00 之间非常拥挤,建议在 18:00 前或 20:30 第一波人潮散去后再去。
Tran Phu 是古镇的主干道,大部分餐厅商业气息太浓,不推荐专门前往,但 Phuong Nam 的白玫瑰饺子做得不错,且营业至 22:00 左右。他们也供应“cao lau”——那种与会安(호이안 / 会安 / ホイアン)当地水源传说紧密相连的厚小麦面配叉烧肉,所以你可以在一张桌子上同时品尝这两道美食,无需奔波。这里的白玫瑰饺子售价 40,000 VND。环境虽然普通,但上菜快,也不会催促客人。
这是一家需要自己找的店。菜单上除了米饭套餐外还有“banh vac”,营业时间比大多数店晚,通常到 22:30 或 23:00。它位于主要游客中心以南几个街区,环境更安静。这里的价格更低,约 35,000 VND,因为客群多为当地人和下班的旅馆员工。店内灯光是荧光灯,也没有英文招牌,但老板娘很习惯通过手势交流。
穿过日本廊桥那一侧的 An Hoi 夜市,有两三个摊位从 17:00 到 23:00 左右供应白玫瑰饺子。这里的品质参差不齐——有时饺子皮会稍微厚一点,影响口感——但环境不错,一盘价格在 30,000 到 35,000 VND。如果你正好在逛夜市喝“bia hoi”看人们为灯笼讨价还价,顺便吃一份是不错的选择,不必专门跑一趟。

图片来源:Võ Văn Tiến on Pexels
由于饺子皮都来自同一个源头,白玫瑰饺子好坏的区别通常在于蒸制时间和蘸酱品质,而非食材本身。蒸过头了,皮会变黏。蘸酱应该带点酸味——如果味道平淡,可以要求多加点青柠。
在会安,同时品尝其他越南中部菜肴也是一种享受。“Mi quang”——那种用姜黄染色、配有猪肉、虾和烤米饼的面条——也是一道在当地之外很难吃到正宗风味的菜肴。如果以白玫瑰饺子为起点,它与 mi quang 的搭配比与一碗“pho”(那更像是北方的早餐)的搭配要协调得多。
周末 18:00 到 21:00 之间的古镇非常拥挤,在热门餐厅找到座位需要耐心,或者避开高峰时段。周二到周四的 20:00 之后是会安最安静的时候。

图片来源:Hải Nguyễn on Pexels
大多数白玫瑰饺子店只收现金;请准备好小额钞票(10,000 到 50,000 VND 面额)。古镇面积不大,文中提到的所有地方都在步行 15 分钟的范围内。如果你住在老城区外,从大多数旅馆打 Grab 摩托车到 Tran Phu 的费用不到 30,000 VND。