"Xoi xeo" is one of those Hanoi breakfasts that looks simple until you taste a bad version and realise how much can go wrong. The rice has to be glutinous but not gummy. The mung-bean paste should be smooth and faintly sweet, not chalky. The fried shallots need crunch. And the shaved "gio lua" — Vietnamese pork sausage — should be there in serious quantity, not as an afterthought. Below are the stalls and shops worth crossing the city for, plus one honest skip.
What Makes Hanoi Xoi Xeo Distinct
Xoi xeo is a northern dish, and Hanoi (하노이 / 河内 / ハノイ)'s version is particular. The sticky rice is cooked with turmeric, which gives it the deep amber-yellow colour and a faint earthy note. The mung-bean layer goes on top, then a drizzle of rendered chicken fat or pork lard, then the shallots fried low and slow until golden. It is eaten warm, usually wrapped in banana leaf or scooped into a paper bag. A proper portion runs 20,000–35,000 VND. If you are paying more than that from a street cart, someone is charging the tourist markup.
Some vendors add "gio bo" (beef sausage) or a fried egg on request. The egg is worth the extra 5,000 VND.
Xoi Yen — 35B Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem
This is the name most Hanoians will give you first, and the reputation is earned. Xoi Yen has been running since the 1960s and occupies a narrow shopfront one block from Hoan Kiem Lake. Open from around 06:00 to 13:00, sometimes earlier if stock runs out. A standard xoi xeo with gio lua is 30,000–35,000 VND. The mung-bean layer here is noticeably thicker than most competitors, and the shallots are done right — no pale or burnt pieces. Seating is elbow-to-elbow on low plastic stools. Come before 08:30 if you want to avoid a queue. It accepts cash only.
Ba Thin — Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem
A cart that operates from a fixed spot near the top of Hang Gai, roughly opposite the Thang Long silk shops. Ba Thin is not a sit-down place — you take your banana-leaf packet and find a kerb. Hours are roughly 06:30–10:00, gone when sold out. Prices sit at 20,000–25,000 VND depending on toppings. The distinguishing feature here is the chicken fat drizzle, which is applied more generously than average. The gio is hand-sliced rather than pre-cut, which makes a difference to the texture. No signage; just look for the woman with the large steamer basket and the queue of motorbikes.
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Xoi Bui — 14 Hang Da, Hoan Kiem
A quieter option a short walk from Dong Xuan Market. Xoi Bui opens at 06:00 and typically closes by noon. A full serving with gio and mung bean runs 28,000 VND. This is the place to go if you want a fried egg added — they do it in a small pan right there and slide it on top. The rice itself has a slightly firmer bite than Xoi Yen, which some people prefer. The shop is small, four tables maximum, and the owner is brisk but not unfriendly.
Co Lan — Pho Co Area, Near 67 Dinh Liet
Co Lan is a roaming vendor who parks her cart on Dinh Liet most mornings between 06:00 and 08:30. She has been doing this route for over a decade. Prices are the cheapest on this list: 20,000 VND flat for a standard portion, 25,000 VND with egg. The xoi xeo here skews slightly sweeter in the mung-bean layer, which divides opinion but has loyal regulars. If the cart is not on Dinh Liet, check the alley behind — she sometimes sets up inside to avoid the rain.
Photo by Nguyen Truong Khang on Pexels
Xoi Que Viet — 107 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem
A small fixed-address shop that caters to a mix of locals and guesthouse workers from nearby hotels. Open 06:30–11:00. Xoi xeo here is 30,000 VND and comes with a more generous gio portion than most. They also offer "xoi ngo" (corn sticky rice) and "xoi dau den" (black bean sticky rice) for those who want to work through the menu. The space has a few sheltered seats, which matters during the wet season. Worth noting: they also sell "banh cuon" from a small side operation, so if you arrive and xoi has sold out, you are not stranded.
Skip This: The Touristy Xoi Stalls Near Hoan Kiem Lake's South End
The vendors positioned right along the lakeside walk near the Ngoc Son Temple entrance are, bluntly, not worth it. Prices start at 45,000–60,000 VND for a portion that is smaller than what you get two streets back, the mung bean is thin, and the shallots are often pre-fried and reheated. The premium is entirely for location. Walk 400 metres north and you are in range of every stall on this list.
Practical Notes
Xoi xeo is a morning food — most serious vendors are done by noon, many by 10:00. Bring small bills (10,000 and 20,000 VND notes); carts rarely carry change for 200,000 VND. If you want to build a proper Hanoi breakfast morning, pair xoi xeo with a cup of Vietnamese coffee from one of the side-alley ca phe shops off Hang Gai — the combination of sticky rice and strong coffee is very much the local way to start the day.
Last updated · May 26, 2026 · independently researched, never sponsored.
