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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

顺化 Banh Loc:五家值得一探的巷弄小店

顺化的木薯粉饺子平价、地道且极易错过。以下是寻找正宗美味的去处。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Street food with multiple small dishes on a tray, served outdoors with vibrant sauces.
↑ Street food with multiple small dishes on a tray, served outdoors with vibrant sauces.Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Tags
#banh loc#hue#guide#food#street food#breakfast#tapioca#dumplings
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    Where to Eat Nem Ran in Hanoi: Family-Friendly Spots That Actually Get It Right

    Hue 对饺子有着近乎执着的追求,而“banh loc”——一种包裹着虾仁和五花肉、晶莹剔透的木薯粉饺子,经过蒸或煮后,淋上葱油,再配上一碟浓郁的鱼露——是这座城市最引以为傲的招牌美食。最美味的版本往往不在餐厅里,而是藏在巷弄深处,在折叠桌旁,由那些制作同一配方几十年的阿姨们亲手烹制。

    以下是一份值得你按图索骥的清单。

    Ba Thi — 17 Nguyen Binh Khiem

    这大概是榜单上最广为人知的一家,但它确实名副其实。Ba Thi 的店面狭窄,距离 Dong Ba Market 区域仅几步之遥。她通常在早上 7 点左右开门,10 点前就会售罄。这里的 Banh loc 有两种形式:水煮的(用香蕉叶包裹,赋予外皮淡淡的草本香气)和油炸的——后者将木薯粉皮炸至起泡酥脆,虽然评价两极,但绝对值得一试。一份六个大约 25,000 VND。仅收现金,没有菜单,直接指着托盘里的食物点餐即可。

    Quan Hem — Nguyen Chi Thanh 旁的小巷

    如果你向当地人打听 Banh loc,他们最终会把你指引到 Nguyen Chi Thanh 街靠近皇城南墙的一条小巷里。这家店非正式地被称为 Quan Hem,没有招牌,在波纹铁皮屋顶下摆着几张塑料桌。这里的香蕉叶包裹版 Banh loc 外皮明显比一般的要厚,有些人不喜欢,但如果你吃得慢,这种厚度能让它保持更好的口感。虾仁馅是完整的一只,而非碎肉,吃起来非常鲜美。价格在 20,000–25,000 VND 之间,一份五个。营业时间大致为早上 6:30 到 11:00。

    Co Lan — 48/7 Nguyen Truong To

    寻找这家店需要一点耐心——巷口很容易错过,而且 Co Lan 本人没有任何广告。她每天制作两批:一批在清晨(约 6:30 开始),另一批在下午 3 点左右。如果你在上午中段赶来想吃第二批,那你得等上一会儿。这里的木薯粉皮比大多数店都要薄——新鲜出炉时几乎薄如蝉翼——而且葱油淋得比别处更慷慨,这让整体口感更浓郁,吃起来也稍微有点狼狈。记得带上纸巾。六个 20,000 VND。

    一位戴着口罩的女摊贩在热闹的街头市场推着色彩鲜艳的餐车。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tuan Vy

    Banh Loc La — Cho An Cuu 市场周边

    Cho An Cuu(安旧市场,位于香江南岸)的市场周边聚集了一批早市摊贩,专门售卖“banh loc la”——即香蕉叶包裹的版本。值得一提的是,它与裸煮的饺子有所区别:香蕉叶蒸制让饺子的质地略有不同,外皮会更加软糯。这里的摊位从早上 6 点左右营业到中午。价格是这份清单里最便宜的——有些摊位 15,000 VND 就能买到五个。质量因摊位而异;建议选择当地人排队最长的那个摊位。

    Di Ut — Kim Long 社区

    Kim Long 位于 Imperial Citadel 西北几公里处,大多数游客除非去参观附近的皇家陵墓——Tomb of Tu Duc 和 Tomb of Khai Dinh 都在这个方向——否则很少会来到这里。如果你正好要去那边,Di Ut 在 Kim Long 住宅巷子里的小摊非常值得你调整行程去品尝。她早上 7 点开门,通常 9 点就卖完了。她的版本在每个饺子里都加入了一小块五花肉,这在别处较少见,吃起来也更扎实。六个 25,000 VND。

    美味的越南 Banh bot loc,放在香蕉叶上,配有风味十足的蘸酱。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Hải Nguyễn

    出发前须知

    Banh loc 属于早餐和早午餐点心。如果你在上午 11 点之后才到,这些店大多已经关门或只剩下残羹冷炙了。蘸用的鱼露——“nuoc cham”——在各家摊位之间差异很大;有些会加入新鲜辣椒和青柠,有些则保持原味,咸鲜浓郁。没有哪种更好,但建议先尝一口再蘸,以免味道过重。

    香蕉叶包裹版(banh loc la)和裸煮版(有时称为 banh loc tran,意为“裸体”)在顺化都很常见。如果你有偏好,下单前请先确认——大多数摊贩只做其中一种,而不是两种都做。

    顺化的美食场景奖励那些愿意步行和询问的人。如果你已经在探索这座城市——老城区的小巷、Le Loi 沿线、市场周边——请留意那些手写的纸板招牌,以及热锅中葱油激发的香气。那就是给你的信号。

    实用提示

    所列价格均为单份价格,可能会有变动;预计每年会有小幅上涨。大多数摊贩只收现金,英语水平有限——直接指着食物并用手指比划数量即可。早起是必须的:请务必在上午 10 点前安排好你的 Banh loc 之旅,否则请相应调整你的行程。