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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · saigon

Che Thai:历史、变体及点餐指南

Che Thai 是越南一种带有泰国风味的椰浆水果甜点——本文将带你了解碗里的真实配料、它为何在 Saigon 如此流行,以及去哪里品尝最正宗的味道。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
A delectable slice of cake alongside a colorful fruit salad, perfect for dessert lovers.
↑ A delectable slice of cake alongside a colorful fruit salad, perfect for dessert lovers.Photo by Dovinda Rd on Pexels
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#che thai#deep dive#guide#food#street food#dessert#coconut#saigon food
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    如果你曾坐在越南的甜品摊前,指着菜单上那碗色彩最丰富、看起来最“混乱”的甜品,那你点的很可能就是“che Thai”——而且你的选择非常正确。

    什么是真正的 Che Thai

    “Che”是越南语中对甜汤和布丁类甜品的统称,涵盖了从简单的绿豆粥到复杂的层次感甜点等多种类型。而“Che Thai”则是越南南部甜品界的明珠:一碗冰镇的什锦热带水果、Q弹果冻和荸荠,浸没在香甜的椰浆中,最后撒上碎冰。

    尽管名字里有“Thai”(泰国),但在泰国你却找不到一模一样的同名甜点。它的由来比单纯的引进更有趣。越南厨师,尤其是 Saigon 的厨师,借鉴了泰国甜点文化的技巧和风味逻辑——大量使用椰奶、将甜味水果与带咸味的奶油搭配、以及热衷于碰撞多种口感——并创造出了一种完全属于越南自己的甜品。到了 20 世纪 80 年代和 90 年代,Che Thai 已经成为 Saigon 街头甜品界的常客,尤其是在那些拥有大量华裔和南越商人社区的街区,这些地方长期以来有着深厚的跨境饮食交流。

    如今,即便你在 Hanoi 也能找到它的身影,但它骨子里依然是一道南方甜品。Saigon 版本口感更浓郁、更冰凉,也更追求“极繁主义”。而北方版本往往会减少椰浆的用量,水果种类也会相应精简。

    碗里都有什么

    虽然没有唯一的标准配方,但有些配料是几乎每家店都会放的。

    水果: 菠萝蜜丝(新鲜或罐装)和荔枝是两大支柱。两者都很甜,且在冰凉的椰浆中能保持良好的口感。龙眼、红毛丹和棕榈子(“thot not”)也经常出现。有些摊位还会加入新鲜芒果或糖渍罗望子。

    果冻: 这是各家摊位拉开差距的地方。斑兰果冻(绿色,带有淡淡的草本清香)几乎是标配。椰子果冻(白色,质地柔软,微甜)也很常见。根据店铺的不同,你还会看到红色的染色果冻、蝶豆花果冻(深蓝紫色)和芋头果冻。

    荸荠: 通常裹上木薯粉后稍微煮一下,使其在爽脆的果核外包裹一层半透明、Q弹的外壳。它们为整碗甜点提供了最有趣的口感对比。

    椰浆: 不是椰子水,也不是稀椰奶,而是浓稠的椰浆,通常会加一点盐,有时还会用糖浆调味。这就是 Che Thai 让人感到满足的原因。好的摊位会使用新鲜椰浆,或者从可靠的供货商处采购。市面上有罐装椰浆,但你一尝就能分辨出区别。

    冰块: 必须是碎冰或刨冰,而不是大块冰。冰块融化后会融入椰浆,逐渐稀释汤底——吃到碗底时,风味会发生微妙的变化。所以,趁凉快赶紧吃。

    越南 Hội An 街头色彩缤纷的 chè 甜品碗。

    摄影:Nguyễn Thị Thảo Hà (Ha Nguyen),源自 Pexels

    区域变体

    如前所述,Saigon 的版本倾向于极繁主义。如果摊位招牌上列出了十二种配料,那你碗里就一定会有十二种。

    在 Hue 和 Da Nang,甜品文化非常讲究——该地区有自己复杂的甜品传统——但 Che Thai 在当地的地位略显边缘。虽然能找到,但通常比较简单,水果种类较少,椰浆的份量也较少。

    在 Hanoi,Che Thai 虽然随处可见,但总给人一种“水土不服”的感觉。北方人的口味没那么甜,份量也往往较小。供应 Hanoi 版本的街头摊位有时会完全用罐装荔枝代替新鲜水果,这会明显改变整体的风味。

    还有一个值得一提的特殊变体:“che Thai sua chua”——在 Che Thai 里加一勺原味酸奶。酸味同时中和了甜味和椰浆的厚重感。听起来很奇怪,但味道非常棒。这种吃法在 Saigon 很常见,在其他地方则很少见。

    如何点餐

    在专门的甜品摊,你通常会看到配料被装在贴有标签的容器里。你可以指着配料自己组合,或者直接说“mot chen che Thai”(来一碗 Che Thai),让摊主帮你配。

    两个有用的点餐词:

    • “It ngot”——少糖。如果你想让摊主少放点糖浆,就说这个。
    • “Them nuoc cot dua”——多加椰浆。如果你想要额外多加点椰浆,就说这个。

    价格区间:在 Saigon,根据地点和份量,价格在 20,000 到 40,000 VND 之间。Ben Thanh Market 附近的游客区店铺价格偏高。而在第 3、5 或 10 区的社区摊位,通常只需 20,000 到 25,000 VND 就能买到满满一大碗。

    Che Thai 几乎总是冷食。如果摊主提供热的,那要么是极特殊的做法,要么是冰块用完了——前者非常罕见,所以点餐时你可以直接确认“lanh”(冷)。

    新鲜椰子剖开后的细节图,露出白色的椰肉和星形的叉子。

    摄影:Liuuu _61,源自 Pexels

    去哪里品尝

    越南(베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)有三家店值得你专程前往:

    Che Khuc Bach — Dang Van Ngu, Saigon

    这条位于富润区(Phu Nhuan District)的街道上,从傍晚到深夜都排满了甜品摊。这里有几家摊位的 Che Thai 做得非常好,配有新鲜菠萝蜜和自制斑兰果冻。没有特别出名的店名——沿着街道走,看哪家排队最长,坐下吃就行了。

    Che Ba Ba — Hoi An Old Town

    这是一家位于 Hoi An 古城边缘的家族经营小店。他们的 Che Thai 偏向越南中部口味——椰浆较少,果冻种类更多,甜度稍低。这是了解该甜点如何随地域变化的绝佳参考点。价格约 25,000 VND。

    Che Hoa Cau — Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Saigon

    这是 Saigon 一家老字号,供应多种 Che 甜品。他们的 Che Thai 除了标准的菠萝蜜和荔枝外,还加入了新鲜的棕榈子。这是一家当地人带外地朋友去体验南越甜品真实味道的地方。预计消费 30,000–35,000 VND。

    实用小贴士

    Che Thai 天生就是一种适合温暖天气的甜点——它之所以美味,是因为热带甜味与冰凉椰浆的对比,而越南炎热的气候意味着它全年都非常受欢迎。如果你正在 Saigon 探索街头美食,建议将 Che Thai 安排在午后,那时天气最热,甜品摊也刚刚摆出最新鲜的配料。避免购买便利店里的预包装版本——那里的椰浆会分层,果冻口感也会变得像橡胶一样。真正的现做甜点价格便宜,而且摊主只需 90 秒就能在你面前完成制作。