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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hai-phong

海防平价美食:50,000越南盾以内的饱腹盛宴

海防拥有被大多数游客忽视的深厚美食底蕴。这份指南将带你探索如何在海防享用早餐、午餐和晚餐,且每顿花费均不超过50,000越南盾。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Panoramic view of Cat Ba Island harbour with large jars and fishing boats under a clear sky.
↑ Panoramic view of Cat Ba Island harbour with large jars and fishing boats under a clear sky.Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Tags
#hai phong#food guide#city guide#food#budget travel#street food#north vietnam
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    Bun Mam: A Complete Guide to History, Variants, and How to Order

    海防的美食名气虽不如Hanoi或Hue那样响亮,但当地人吃得极其讲究,而且价格非常亲民。只要找对地方,150,000越南盾足以让你享用三顿扎实的餐点,甚至还有余钱买饮料。

    早餐——从菜市场开始

    海防最地道的平价早餐通常在上午8点前,出现在各大菜市场附近。

    Banh Mi Thit Nuong — 15,000–20,000 VND

    海防版的“banh mi”与Saigon风格的法棍不同,它更侧重于烤肉,而非冷切肉。Cho Sat(Tran Hung Dao街上的铁市场)周围的摊位通常在早上5:30左右开门,很快就会售罄。寻找那些店前摆着木炭烤炉的摊位——那股烟火气就是你的导航。一份加了肉酱、腌萝卜丝和焦香猪肉的全料法棍售价在18,000–20,000越南盾之间。再从旁边的摊位买一杯15,000越南盾的“ca phe sua da”,便是绝配。

    Banh Cuon Hai Phong — 25,000–35,000 VND

    这里的“banh cuon”与Hanoi版本略有不同——米皮更薄,馅料更干,通常配有cha lua(猪肉香肠)和味道更浓郁的蘸汁。Minh Khai街旧邮局附近的小巷里有两三家口碑很好的店,排队摩托车最多的那家通常就是最佳选择。一份配料齐全的肠粉大约需要30,000越南盾。

    午餐——一天中最重要的一餐

    海防的午餐文化意味着要在上午11点到中午之间用餐,否则好吃的菜品很快就会卖光。

    Bun Ca — 30,000–40,000 VND

    这是海防低调的招牌菜。“Bun ca”(鱼肉米粉汤)以姜黄调味的汤底为特色,配上炸鱼饼、新鲜莳萝和米粉。它比pho更清爽,但风味却比看起来复杂得多。最地道的平价版本可以在Cat Cut街找到——同一街区有几家露天店铺在竞争。花35,000越南盾,你就能得到一大碗米粉,如果要求的话,老板还会多给你加几块鱼饼。再加5,000越南盾,就能配上一根油条。

    Com Binh Dan — 35,000–50,000 VND

    “Com binh dan”(平民饭)是越南午餐的中流砥柱。在海防,Nguyen Duc Canh街港口区附近的餐馆尤其出色——它们主要面向码头工人,这意味着分量十足且不花哨。你可以从展示柜里挑选三到四样菜:红烧五花肉、炒空心菜、煎蛋、腌芥菜。米饭加三道菜只需35,000–45,000越南盾,这是城里性价比最高的选择。请在中午12:15之前用餐,否则最好的菜品就会被抢光。

    Mi Quang Hai Phong-Style — 30,000–40,000 VND

    这虽然不是越南中部的正统版本,但海防将“mi quang”吸收并改良成了自己的特色——面条更宽,猪肉虾汤底稍微油润一些,上面撒着烤花生和米饼。它非常管饱,在Le Loi街的摊位上只需约35,000越南盾。如果你想换换口味,不吃汤面,这绝对值得一试。

    美味的越南鱼肉米粉汤,配有酥脆的炸鱼和新鲜香草。

    图片来源:Hoàng Giang on Pexels

    晚餐——夜市街头美食巡礼

    海防的夜晚是为户外用餐而生的。当暑气散去,塑料小凳摆出来,下午5点左右,烤架便开始升温。

    Bun Rieu — 30,000–40,000 VND

    “Bun rieu”(蟹肉番茄米粉汤)是这里的晚餐主食。Bach Dang河滨的夜间摊位从下午5:30左右开始营业,提供装满番茄、蟹膏、炸豆腐和一把新鲜香草的大碗米粉。花35,000–40,000越南盾,你就能得到满满一碗米粉,旁边还会附送一小盘酥脆的虾饼。在河边用餐,环境完全免费。

    Cha Muc — 40,000–50,000 VND 每份

    这是海防的标志性菜肴,游客却经常错过:这就是“cha muc”,即鱿鱼饼。新鲜的鱿鱼被捣碎后炸成紧实、有嚼劲的肉饼,外皮略带焦香。它既可以作为零食单独吃,也可以配米饭。Dinh Hang街夜市附近有按重量售卖的摊贩——40,000越南盾就能买到满满一盘。蘸上罗望子酱,再配上隔壁街角小店的冰镇“bia hoi”(每杯7,000–10,000越南盾),这就是一个近乎零成本的完美夜晚。

    Banh Da Cua — 35,000–45,000 VND

    海防的另一项原创美食:“banh da cua”是一种红褐色的米粉汤,以蟹汤为底,配上蟹肉、排骨、空心菜和酥脆的红葱头。红色的米粉是用红米制成的,比白米粉更有嚼劲,也更香。Lach Tray街的夜市摊位从下午4点左右开始供应,直到卖完为止,通常晚上8点就关门了。45,000越南盾就能享用满满一碗。

    充满活力的夜市场景,越南美食摊位提供各种当地小吃和珍馐。

    图片来源:HONG SON on Pexels

    实用贴士

    这些摊位大多只收现金——请准备好小额钞票(5,000和10,000越南盾的纸币非常有用)。海防的中心美食街区紧凑且适合步行;从Cho Sat到Bach Dang河滨的一条慢行路线,涵盖了上述大部分内容,全程不到两公里。街头小吃摊通常开得早,卖完即止,所以建议在上述时间段的较早时分前往。