最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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Da Lat 的热豆浆不仅是一种饮品,更是一种夜市仪式。本文将带你了解它与越南其他地区豆浆的区别,以及去哪里寻找最地道的风味。

最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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在越南(Vietnam)的几乎任何地方,一杯“sua dau nanh”(新鲜豆浆)的价格都是 10,000 VND。在 Da Lat,当晚上 9 点气温降至 14°C,雾气笼罩山间时,同样的一杯豆浆却有了截然不同的意义。
在越南,大多数豆浆都是冷饮,加了糖,从 com tam 或 banh mi 摊位的大塑料桶里倒出来。这很普通,只是配角。但在 Da Lat,豆浆默认是热的——现点现蒸,盛在陶瓷杯中,通常有多种口味可选:原味(thuan)、花生味(dau phong)或黑豆味(dau den)。
黑豆味的版本非常值得一试。它比标准的黄豆基底口感更醇厚、更具泥土芬芳,自带淡淡的甜味,几乎不需要额外加糖。花生味的版本则更加浓郁,甚至带有奶油感,如果你坐在 Xuan Huong 湖附近的露天摊位,这种口感与寒冷的空气简直是绝配。
质地也有所不同。Da Lat 的豆浆通常更浓稠,比起在 Hanoi 或 Saigon 便利店里买到的那种稀薄的豆浆,它更接近无糖豆乳。当地摊贩将此归功于海拔和水源,虽然没有科学依据,但有一点是可以证实的:豆子通常是当地采购的,且当天现磨。
在 Hanoi,sua dau nanh 通常是早餐饮品——早上 6 点到 8 点左右在卖“banh cuon”或“xoi”的摊位售卖,之后就收摊了。它口感较稀,微甜,如果外带,会装在塑料袋里插根吸管。味道不错,但只是功能性的饮品。
在 Saigon,你会在“hu tieu”摊位以及第 5 区和第 10 区的专门店里找到它,那里由华裔越南人保留了这一传统。Cho Lon 版本的豆浆偏甜,有时会加入斑斓叶调味。同样:味道不错,但喝完之后并不会让你念念不忘。
Da Lat 的版本则令人印象深刻。部分原因是环境使然——寒冷的天气、夜市的活力,以及双手捧着温热杯子的那种感觉——但更重要的是,这里的摊贩将其视为主角,而非配角。

摄影:🇻🇳🇻🇳Nguyễn Tiến Thịnh 🇻🇳🇻🇳,来源:Pexels
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai 街夜市的室内区域,南入口附近聚集了三四家 sua dau nanh 摊位。寻找那些摆着大型铝制蒸锅并贴有手写口味清单的摊位。大多数夜晚从下午 5:30 营业到晚上 11 点。标准杯售价 10,000-15,000 VND;黑豆味有时会贵 5,000 VND。
当地人最推荐的是一位被称为 Ba Lan 的女士经营的摊位(没有正式招牌,截至 2025 年初,位于拐角处第二个摊位)。她已经在那里经营了十多年。点一份 dau den,不要加糖——它本身就足够好喝了。
周末,Truong Cong Dinh 的步行区挤满了餐车和年轻摊贩,售卖从烤玉米到“banh mi”的各种美食。这里有两三辆餐车售卖 sua dau nanh,不过周末人多,你可能需要排队。品质稳定但不如夜市,如果你喜欢热闹,这里氛围更好。
这条与市场平行的街道上有几家全天营业的店,从清晨就开始供应豆浆。这些店比较安静,适合坐下来喝,配的是塑料凳,没有特别的氛围,但很适合在早上 7 点去 Xuan Huong 湖之前喝上一杯。价格:统一 10,000 VND。

摄影:LUC PH@M,来源:Pexels
晚上是最佳时间。Da Lat 的气温全年都在下午 6 点后急剧下降,在雾气渐浓时,用陶瓷杯温暖双手,这种仪式感正是这款饮品声名远扬的原因。中午去喝,味道一样,但少了那种氛围。
如果你在 Da Lat 花卉节(通常在 12 月)期间到访,夜市规模会扩大,sua dau nanh 摊位也会非常忙碌——建议在晚上 7 点前到达,以避开最拥挤的人潮。
大多数摊贩不太会说英语;指着菜单板上的口味即可。请准备好零钱——10,000 和 20,000 VND 的纸币。如果你对大豆过敏,花生口味显然不适合你,而且在繁忙的摊位,锅具之间发生交叉污染的情况很常见。