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Dao O - Dong Truong:Dong Nai 水库岛屿旅行指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · south · dong-nai

Dao O - Dong Truong:Dong Nai 水库岛屿旅行指南

Dao O - Dong Truong 是 Dong Nai 省 Tri An 水库中一座鲜为人知的岛屿——以下是关于如何前往、玩什么以及吃什么的指南。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 19, 20266 min read
A serene view of a dam with a tranquil river in Gia Lai, Vietnam.
↑ A serene view of a dam with a tranquil river in Gia Lai, Vietnam.Photo by HONG SON on Pexels
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#dao o dong truong#dong nai#south#destinations#tri an reservoir#camping#fishing#weekend trip
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    Dao O - Dong Truong 位于 Tri An 水库的中心,这是一个巨大的人工湖,位于 Saigon 东北约 60 km 处。这是那种大多数外国游客从未听说过的地方,而这正是它值得一去的原因。

    景点介绍

    1987年 Tri An 水电站大坝竣工时,淹没了当时 Dong Nai 省的大片森林和农田,从而形成了 Tri An 水库。Dao O(有时被称为 O 岛)和周围的 Dong Truong 地区作为水库中的岛屿和半岛显露出来。这里的景观由次生林、橡胶园和灌木丛生的山丘交织而成,它们从延伸至地平线的平静水面中拔地而起。

    随着近期的行政区划调整,该地区如今横跨 Dong Nai 省和 Binh Phuoc 省的边界地带。对于游客来说,这其实无关紧要——你将从 Dong Nai 一侧进入,而这里的氛围始终如一:乡村、宁静,且充满地道的南越风情。

    这不是一座度假岛屿。这里没有海滩俱乐部,也没有无边泳池。你能拥有的,是开阔的水面、廉价的海鲜、吊床上的悠闲时光,以及一种与不到两小时车程外的 Saigon (사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン) 喧嚣都市完全隔绝的自然景观。

    为什么值得去

    Dao O - Dong Truong 主要吸引来自 Saigon 和 Bien Hoa 的国内周末度假者,他们想露营、钓鱼,或者只是坐在水边发呆,而无需大老远开车去海边。它的魅力很简单:距离近、花销低,而且真正宁静。水库非常宽阔,站在岛岸上,你甚至会误以为这是 Central Highlands (중부 고원 / 中部高原 / 中部高原) 的某个湖泊——只不过这里的海拔只有大约 50 米,而且一年四季空气都湿润温暖。

    偶尔也会有观鸟者造访。水库边缘栖息着鹭、翠鸟和鸬鹚,尤其是在清晨时分。摄影师们则钟爱黎明时分水面弥漫着薄雾的光影。

    最佳游玩时间

    旱季——11月至次年4月——是最舒适的游玩窗口期。天空晴朗,湿度略有下降,水库水位较低,暴露出更多的海岸线,登岛也更加容易。

    尽量避开雨季高峰期(7月至9月),除非你喜欢在泥泞的小路上跋涉,或者在开阔水面上遭遇突如其来的倾盆大雨。一年到头,工作日都明显比周末安静得多,因为周末会有大量 Saigon 的家庭涌入。

    如何从 Saigon 前往

    从 Saigon 市中心出发,沿 1A 国道向东北方向驶向 Bien Hoa,然后转入 DT768 公路(或顺着指向 Vinh Cuu 县和 Tri An 湖的路标行驶)。车程大约 70–80 km,耗时约 1.5–2 小时,具体取决于驶出 Saigon 时的交通状况。

    你有以下几种选择:

    • 摩托车: 最灵活的选择。单程油费约 40,000–60,000 VND。全程都是铺装路面,直到靠近水库的最后几公里,路面才会变得狭窄和崎岖。
    • 汽车/包车: 乘坐 Grab 或包车往返一天的费用约为 800,000–1,200,000 VND。如果和朋友平摊费用,还是很划算的。
    • 公交车 + xe om: 从 Saigon 的 Mien Dong 汽车站乘坐公交车前往 Vinh Cuu 或 Dinh Quan(约 60,000–80,000 VND),然后雇一辆当地的“xe om”(摩托车出租车)走完最后一段路到达乘船点——预计花费 50,000–100,000 VND。

    一旦到达水库边缘,你需要乘船才能上岛。当地渔民提供乘船服务,每趟大约 100,000–200,000 VND,具体取决于团队人数和你的砍价能力。这里没有固定的渡轮时刻表——你可以现场安排,或者如果你有当地联系人的话可以提前打电话预订。

    两名男子在黄昏时分在越南 Son Tay 的湖畔享受篝火。

    照片由 Lam Kien 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    玩什么

    岛上露营

    Dao O 是 Saigon 附近最适合过夜露营的地点之一。请自带帐篷和装备——岛上没有租赁店。靠近海岸线的平地非常适合扎营。生一堆火(注意安全),烹饪你带来的或钓到的食物,伴着水声和虫鸣入睡。这里没有光污染,这意味着星空绝对美得令人惊叹。

    水库垂钓

    Tri An 水库是南部产量最丰富的淡水钓鱼点之一。当地人经常能钓到罗非鱼、黑鱼和鲶鱼。你可以自带鱼竿,也可以向船夫租用基本的渔具,费用约 50,000 VND。在岛岸上钓鱼或在小船上垂钓都是不错的选择。

    划皮划艇或小船探索

    如果你的船夫有皮划艇或独木舟(有些人会提供),可以划船穿梭于岛屿周围较小的水湾。水面平静,水道狭窄,这是近距离观察鸟类的最佳方式。

    岛内徒步

    岛屿面积不大,但沿着小径穿过次生林和灌木丛,享受一两个小时的愉快徒步是个不错的体验。请穿一双合适的鞋子——地面高低不平,雨后可能会很湿滑。

    参观水上养鱼场

    水库周围散布着当地家庭经营的水上养鱼场——这些是带有底部网箱的木制平台。有些渔民很乐意带你参观,并会直接向你出售新鲜的鱼。一公斤黑鱼的价格大约在 80,000–120,000 VND。

    附近吃什么

    在岛上,你基本上需要自己解决饮食。请从 Vinh Cuu 镇或 Saigon 携带食物。

    回到水库附近的大陆,路边的小店会供应 ca loc nuong trui——用稻草烤制的整条黑鱼,搭配香草裹在米纸里食用。这是 Mekong Delta (메콩 델타 / 湄公河三角洲 / メコンデルタ) 的经典美食,在这里同样大受欢迎。一条整鱼的价格预计在 150,000–250,000 VND 左右。

    也可以在 Ma Da 地区附近的湖畔餐厅寻找 lau ca(鱼火锅)。这些地方设施简陋——塑料椅子、铁皮屋顶——但鱼是直接从水库里打捞上来的。两人份的火锅大约需要 200,000–300,000 VND。

    如果你在路上经过 Bien Hoa,可以去老市场附近的街边小车买个“banh mi”——这是上路前非常靠谱的早餐选择。

    住宿指南

    住宿选择有限且条件简陋:

    • 岛上露营: 免费,但需自带所有必需品,包括饮用水。
    • 水库附近的民宿: 在 Vinh Cuu 或 Ma Da 附近有少数几家家庭经营的民宿,风扇房收费 200,000–400,000 VND/晚。不要指望有热水或会说英语的房东。
    • Vinh Cuu 镇的宾馆: 稍微舒适一些,配有空调和 Wi-Fi。预算 350,000–600,000 VND/晚。

    如果你想要更精致的住宿,最近的正规酒店要回到 Bien Hoa——大约 40 km 外。

    两名渔民在宁静的河流上管理水上养鱼网箱,展示水产养殖方法。

    照片由 HONG SON 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    当地人的实用建议

    • 带上驱蚊剂。 黄昏时的水库是昆虫的天堂。穿长袖也会有所帮助。
    • 携带现金。 岛上没有 ATM 机,乘船点附近也很少。请在 Bien Hoa 或 Saigon 备足现金。
    • 下载离线地图。 水库上的手机信号断断续续,岛上的信号也不太可靠。
    • 自带饮用水。 如果过夜露营,每人至少准备 3–4 升水。岛上没有商店。
    • 上船前谈好船费,而不是下船后。提前商定好返程和接送时间。

    避免常见误区

    • 不带补给品就来。 这里不是 Phu Quoc。岛上没有便利店,没有餐厅,什么都没有。请像真正去野外露营那样打包行李。
    • 到达时间太晚。 船夫们会在傍晚前回家。如果你下午 4 点才出现,指望还能乘船往返,那你一定会大失所望。
    • 低估了阳光的威力。 水库会强烈反射热量和紫外线。即使在“较凉爽”的旱季,防晒霜、帽子和遮阳装备也是必不可少的。
    • 忽略防虫准备。 那些忘记带驱蚊剂和晚上穿长裤的人,在日落后的几分钟内就会后悔莫及。

    实用须知

    Dao O - Dong Truong 是一个真正能让你逃离 Saigon 喧嚣的地方,而且不需要坐飞机或花上一整天的时间赶路。它未经雕琢,而这正是它的魅力所在——妥善打包行李,调整好对越南南部乡村的期望值,你就能在水上度过一段美好的时光。