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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

Saigon的Goi Cuon:五家值得一探的巷弄小店

Saigon最棒的“goi cuon”(越南春卷)不在餐厅里,而是在巷弄深处,坐在塑料凳上,隐藏在不起眼的门面后——以下是寻找它们的方法。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Scenic view of a Vietnamese temple facade adorned with red lanterns and lush greenery.
↑ Scenic view of a Vietnamese temple facade adorned with red lanterns and lush greenery.Photo by HONG SON on Pexels
Tags
#goi cuon#ho chi minh city#guide#food#street food#saigon#spring rolls#district 1#district 3#district 4#district 5
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    大多数来到Saigon的游客都会在游客友好的餐厅尝试“goi cuon”,并以为自己了解了它的真谛。其实不然。真正的版本——半透明的米纸紧紧包裹着肥美的虾仁、薄切猪肉、软糯的米粉和一把新鲜香草——是属于街头巷尾的美味,由那些几十年来一直沿用同一配方制作的阿姨们亲手卷制。花生海鲜酱是Saigon的招牌,比北方常见的以鱼露为主的蘸酱更浓稠、更甜,上面通常还会撒上压碎的烤花生。以下是一份在搜索结果首页上找不到的精选名单。

    Hem 83, Bui Vien — 第一郡

    没错,就是Bui Vien。但不是那条酒吧街——走进83号旁边的巷子,寻找一位从15:00左右开始摆摊直到卖完(通常在19:00前)的阿姨。她是现点现卷,这意味着米纸永远不会变软烂。两卷虾肉春卷售价为每卷15,000 VND。她的蘸酱带有一丝餐厅那种经过改良的版本所缺失的新鲜辣椒味。没有招牌,认准平盘里浸泡着的成叠米纸即可。

    Quan Goi Cuon Co Bay — 第三郡

    Co Bay自20世纪90年代中期以来一直在Nguyen Thien Thuat的一间狭窄店面经营。这里的春卷比一般的要大——她使用的是更宽的米纸——猪肉煮熟后经过冷处理,口感更紧实、清爽。花生酱装在一个小陶罐里,端上来时还带着余温。每卷价格约为18,000–20,000 VND。营业时间大致为周二至周日10:00至14:00。周一雷打不动休息。

    Hoang Dieu巷,第四郡

    第四郡距离Ben Thanh Market区域步行可达,其街头美食一直被低估。从Nguyen Tat Thanh路口沿Hoang Dieu向南走约200米,有一家摩托车维修店,前面常年停着一辆餐车。餐车的主人是一对夫妇——丈夫负责调酱,妻子负责卷春卷。他们的版本除了标准的虾和猪肉外,还加入了一片“cha lua”(越南猪肉香肠),增添了一丝烟熏风味。每卷12,000 VND。每日营业,大致为11:00至20:00,14:00至15:30左右会休息。

    白盘上摆放着越南虾仁春卷和蘸酱的特写。

    图片来源:Pexels上的RDNE Stock project

    Hem 260, Nguyen Trai — 第五郡

    Cholon(堤岸)的美食场景值得更多关注。在260 Nguyen Trai巷内,经过水果摊和一个小寺庙,有一家家庭经营的小店,除了卖goi cuon(고이꾸온 / 越南春卷 / ゴイクオン)外,还卖“banh cuon”和新鲜甘蔗汁。这里的goi cuon略微偏向中越风格——香草更多使用薄荷而非其他地方常见的混合香草束,蘸酱的海鲜酱味也稍微淡一点。建议中午前去;他们下午通常会把重心转向banh cuon。两卷25,000 VND,包含蘸酱。

    Xe Goi Cuon, Vo Van Tan — 第三郡

    这是一个摊位,而不是店铺,大多数夜晚从17:00开始停在Vo Van Tan和Tran Quy Cap的拐角处。经营它的阿姨值得一看——她卷得又快又紧,使用一种能让香草紧贴米纸的技术,这样你就能透过外皮看到里面的色彩。有纯虾仁春卷和虾肉混合春卷可选;价格分别为16,000 VND和20,000 VND。她还用摊位上的小油炸锅卖“cha gio”,两卷goi cuon加两卷cha gio的组合拼盘仅需40,000 VND,非常划算。

    一位戴着口罩的女摊贩在繁忙的街市中推着色彩鲜艳的餐车。

    图片来源:Pexels上的Tuan Vy

    挑选指南

    米纸应该是柔软且略带粘性的——不能干燥或易碎,也不能湿到拿起来就破。虾仁应该通体粉红,没有灰色斑点。好的花生海鲜酱应该有质感;如果像水一样从春卷上流下来,说明稀释过度了。新鲜香草——“rau song”——应该有香气。如果香草束闻起来没味道,说明放置太久了。

    Saigon(사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン)的巷弄摊贩通常有严格的时间表和有限的供应量。在营业时段的末尾去往往意味着食材选择减少,或者春卷早已售罄。请尽早前往,准备好零钱(5,000和10,000 VND面额),并且在他们卷制时不要围观——这被认为是不礼貌的。

    实用贴士

    这里列出的五家店都是坐在小板凳上吃或站着吃的情况;没有一家接受预订或提供英文菜单。所引用的价格为2025年中期的现价,可能会有小幅季节性涨价。在非高峰时段,使用Grab或Xanh SM摩托车可以在15分钟内往返于第一、三、四、五郡之间。