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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · cat-ba

Cat Ba镇夜市:水上活动后去哪儿吃?

Cat Ba的海滨夜市是皮划艇爱好者、徒步旅行者和一日游游客夜幕降临后的好去处——这里有炭烤海鲜、堆成小山的螺蛳、冰镇啤酒,而且完全没有着装要求。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
A beautiful tropical beach view with palm trees and a red-roofed house by the ocean.
↑ A beautiful tropical beach view with palm trees and a red-roofed house by the ocean.Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Tags
#markets#street food#food#cat ba#seafood#night market#oc#ha long bay
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    在Ha Long Bay度过一天,或是在Lan Ha Bay划船之后,Cat Ba镇在晚上6点左右会进入另一种节奏。海滨区域变得热闹起来,塑料凳在路面上摩擦,炭火和蒜蓉黄油的香气从渡轮码头附近主干道旁的一排排摊位和开放式餐厅中飘散出来。这并不是一个有大门和正式名称的市场,它更像是一个每晚自发形成的聚会场所,因为每个人最终都会来到这里。

    布局:先去哪里逛?

    夜市的核心区域沿着Nui Ngoc街延伸,并向海港长廊蔓延。大多数海鲜烧烤摊位大约在晚上6点到10点之间营业。一些摊位会营业到更晚,特别是在周末,当最后一班从Hai Phong出发的渡轮带来新一批游客时。街道西端更吵闹,更偏向游客,菜单上印有英语和韩语。向东走几百米,靠近渔船停泊处,价格会更便宜,菜单也更精简——这通常是一个好迹象。

    如果你刚结束皮划艇之旅,大多数旅馆距离夜市都在10分钟步行路程内。你不需要专门规划,顺着人流自然就会找到。

    点什么吃?

    称重计价的烤海鲜

    这是重头戏。摊位将食材陈列在冰块上——整鱼、大虾、鱿鱼、扇贝、蛤蜊。你指着想要的食材,老板称重后就会放在烤架上。整条烤鱿鱼(muc nuong)配葱油的价格约为80,000–120,000 VND,具体取决于大小和摊位。大虾(tom nuong muoi ot)的价格约为每300克150,000–250,000 VND。如果你是多人用餐,价格可以商量,但不要过度砍价——这里的利润空间并不大。

    如果你从未尝试过,一定要点烤扇贝配葱油和花生(so diep nuong mo hanh)。价格约为每只25,000–35,000 VND。点上四五个,趁热吃最美味。

    “Oc”——螺蛳大赏

    “Oc”(越南语中的螺蛳和小贝类)值得专门品尝。Cat Ba的夜市摊位提供多种做法——香茅蒸香螺(oc huong)、椰奶炒沼泽螺(oc len)以及罗望子酱炒钮扣螺(oc mo)。这些菜品每份价格在50,000–90,000 VND之间。它们会配上一根小签子、一份青柠盐辣椒蘸料,以及一种心照不宣的默契:你会在这张桌子旁坐上很久。这是一种节奏缓慢、需要动手、极其满足的饮食体验。

    如果你同行的人声称不喜欢吃贝类,无论如何都要点一份椰奶炒沼泽螺(oc len),它通常会改变人们的看法。

    平价饱腹之选

    在Cat Ba,并非每一餐都需要大吃海鲜。后街的一些摊位提供现做的“banh mi”——20,000–25,000 VND;主街南端附近至少有一家店用炭火炉制作“bun cha”。虽然比不上Hanoi的水平,但在户外活动一整天后,你绝对不会抱怨。

    如果想在正餐前吃点清淡的,可以找找那些推着托盘售卖“goi cuon”的女性——这是用米纸包裹鲜虾和猪肉的春卷,蘸上海鲜花生酱。3个春卷卖30,000 VND是标准价格。

    在越南Rạch Giá,新鲜海鲜正在炭火烧烤架上烘烤。

    图片来源:Marcus Luu on Pexels

    饮品与皮划艇后的仪式感

    Cat Ba的“bia hoi”场景虽小但很地道。在海滨长廊的几家露天摊位可以买到最便宜的扎啤,每杯10,000–15,000 VND。大多数海鲜餐厅出售的罐装或瓶装啤酒价格在20,000–30,000 VND之间。这里没有精酿啤酒,但这没关系。在面向海港的塑料桌旁,来一瓶冰镇Saigon Special啤酒配上一盘烤虾,本身就是一种完美。

    如果你更喜欢甜点和咖啡,而不是第二轮啤酒,这里也有几家营业到深夜的推车售卖“越南咖啡”。

    美味的越南砂锅螺蛳煲,配有新鲜香草和蘸料,是海鲜爱好者的绝佳选择。

    图片来源:FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels

    价格与点餐实用建议

    带上现金。大多数摊位不接受刷卡,虽然一些坐式餐厅引入了二维码支付,但并不稳定。渡轮码头附近的ATM机是镇上最方便的取现点。预算每人200,000–350,000 VND,就可以享用一顿丰盛的海鲜晚餐并配上一两杯饮料。如果只吃螺蛳和喝bia hoi,预算在150,000 VND左右即可。

    在烤制任何东西之前先问清楚价格。这不是多疑,而是在任何按重量计价的海鲜市场都应遵循的合理做法。大多数摊主都很直爽,但提前确认价格可以避免餐后出现尴尬的重新议价,这种情况偶尔会令初次到访的游客措手不及。

    Cat Ba镇并不大,夜市在工作日结束得比你预期的要早——许多摊位在晚上10点左右就开始收摊了。如果你想有最好的选择,请在晚上7点前到达。

    实用信息

    从大多数Cat Ba旅馆和青旅步行到海滨街区不到10分钟。这里没有入场费,不需要手环,也不需要预订——只要带着饥饿感来就行。如果你是从Ha Long Bay乘游轮一日游,请确认你的船是返回Cat Ba镇还是Tuan Chau港,因为后者会让夜市变得遥不可及。