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Goi Du Du:越式青木瓜沙拉 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all · hanoi

Goi Du Du:越式青木瓜沙拉

爽脆的青木瓜丝搭配牛肉干、虾仁、花生,再淋上酸爽的鱼露酱汁——这是越南版的东南亚经典美食,也是一道清热解暑的开胃前菜。

By the Wayfarer teamApr 20, 20265 min read
A vibrant papaya salad with cherry tomatoes in a coconut bowl, perfect for Thai cuisine lovers.
↑ A vibrant papaya salad with cherry tomatoes in a coconut bowl, perfect for Thai cuisine lovers.Photo by Change C.C on Pexels
Tags
#goi du du#papaya#salad#starters#vietnamese cuisine#street food#fresh herbs#fish sauce
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    什么是 Goi Du Du

    “Goi du du” 是一道以一种简单食材为基础的越南沙拉:切成细丝的未成熟木瓜。木瓜丝与鱼露、青柠、大蒜和辣椒调制的酱汁拌匀,然后撒上花生、香草(通常是薄荷、香菜和莳萝)以及蛋白质配料——最常见的是牛肉干(“thit bo kho”)、鲜虾,或者两者兼有。它的口感清淡、酸爽且带有浓郁的香草气息;木瓜丝清脆,如果牛肉干足够软嫩,还会带有一点嚼劲。它通常作为开胃菜或配菜,经常与烤肉或春卷搭配食用。

    这道沙拉遍布整个 Vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム),但各地有不同的改良。在北部和中部地区,你会发现它的香气更加浓烈——酱汁中会加入生大蒜和红葱头。在南部,甜味开始显现;一些摊位会在鱼露底料中加入一勺糖。唯一不变的是木瓜本身:它必须足够生才能切丝,但又必须足够坚挺才不会软塌。

    它与泰国 Som Tam 的区别

    “Goi du du” 和泰国的 “som tam”(青木瓜沙拉)算是表亲,但做法截然不同。泰式 som tam 通常使用研钵和杵将木瓜稍微捣碎,并将酱汁捣入其中——这样能释放汁液并加深风味。做出来的口感更软,味道更融合。而越南的 “goi du du” 则将木瓜丝与酱汁分开;你只需在碗中轻轻拌匀,让每一根木瓜丝都保持爽脆。泰式 “som tam” 极度偏爱辣味(干辣椒、新鲜的朝天椒,有时还有虾酱)。越南的 “goi du du” 虽然也辣,但更为克制;它的独特风味来自鱼露和牛肉干,而不是大量的生辣椒。泰式 “som tam” 通常包含长豆角和番茄;而越南的 “goi du du” 则保持极简——只有木瓜、香草、花生和蛋白质配料。

    两者都非常美味。泰式 “som tam” 就像一把充满力量的重锤,而越南的 “goi du du” 则像一把更锋利、更安静的利刃。

    一份装在椰子碗里的色彩鲜艳的木瓜沙拉,配有樱桃番茄,非常适合泰国菜爱好者。

    照片由 Change C.C 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    核心配料

    青木瓜:可以在东南亚市场或越南杂货店买到。它们呈淡绿色,坚硬如石,用拇指按压也不会凹陷。一个 2 kg 的木瓜大约能切出 200g 的木瓜丝。你可以在一些摊位上买到切好的木瓜丝,但现切的更好——氧化更少,口感更佳。

    牛肉干:被称为 “thit bo kho”,这是一种经过盐腌、日晒并切成薄片的牛肉干。在市场上,一小袋(100g)的价格为 80,000–150,000 VND。品质很关键;便宜的牛肉干往往筋多且过咸。好的牛肉干口感软嫩,带有咸香和微微的甜味。

    鱼露酱汁:等量的鱼露(约 3 汤匙)、青柠汁(2–3 个青柠),再加上少许糖(1 茶匙)。先将 2–3 瓣大蒜和 1–2 个泰国朝天椒捣成糊状,然后拌入鱼露、青柠汁和糖。上桌前先尝一尝;平衡至关重要——鱼露太多会有一股怪味;青柠太多则会显得单薄且过酸。

    花生:烘烤过、无盐、粗碎。实在没有时也可以用盐焗花生,但无盐花生能更好地衬托出鱼露酱汁的风味。

    香草:薄荷、香菜和莳萝是标配。罗勒(泰式或越式)也很常见。抓一大把放进去——这道沙拉的灵魂就在于香草的芬芳。

    虾仁选项:鲜虾或熟虾可以代替(或加入)牛肉干。通常的做法是将煮熟去壳的虾沿纵向切半。它能增加甜味,带来更清爽的口感。

    哪里能找到正宗美味

    在 Hanoi,老城区边缘(Bat Dan 街和 Luong Ngoc Quyen 附近)的街头小贩会推着小车售卖 “goi du du”,通常与 “banh cuon” 等其他清淡小吃一起卖。一碗大约 30,000–40,000 VND。品质参差不齐;尽量找那些排着长队、翻台率高的摊位。

    像 Com Tam Tam(一家主打越南北部风味的休闲连锁餐厅)这样的连锁店菜单上通常也有味道不错的 “goi du du”,尽管它很少是招牌菜。最好还是在专门的街头摊位,或者同时卖夏卷和沙拉的 pho 店点这道菜。

    在 Saigon,南部的做法更甜、更精致。Pho 2000(一家靠近 Ben Thanh Market 的面向游客的餐厅)供应的 “goi du du” 味道不错,配有虾仁和丰富的配菜;堂食大约需要 80,000 VND。如果想找更便宜、做得更好的版本,可以在 Binh Thanh 或第一郡的小巷子里寻觅——夜市和 com tam (껌땀 / 碎米饭 / コムタム) 摊位通常都有卖。

    Hue 和中部地区将 “goi du du” 作为烤肉的配菜。如果你在茅草屋餐厅点了一份混合烤肉(“thit nuong”),“goi du du” 通常会作为配菜免费送上。不过,单独点一碗也是非常值得的。

    在盛产绿色农产品的 Da Lat (달랏 / 大叻 / ダラット),“goi du du” 格外出色——这里的木瓜更甜、更脆。中央市场附近的摊位出售小份装,价格为 25,000 VND。

    在室内金属桌上供应的一盘配有鸡肉、胡萝卜和花生的越南沙拉。

    照片由 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    如何在家制作

    如果你能买到青木瓜(网购,或者在越南或东南亚杂货店购买),“goi du du” 将是你做过的最简单的越南沙拉之一。

    1. 去皮切丝:用擦丝器或刨丝器将青木瓜切丝。尽量切成面条般细长的丝(约 1/8 英寸)。
    2. 制作酱汁:在研钵中将大蒜和辣椒捣成糊状。拌入 3 汤匙鱼露、2–3 个青柠的汁和 1 茶匙糖。品尝并调整味道。
    3. 混合装盘:将木瓜丝放入碗中。加入撕碎的香草(薄荷、香菜、莳萝)、碎花生以及切片或切丝的牛肉干。轻轻倒入酱汁并拌匀。
    4. 点缀收尾:撒上额外的花生和一小枝薄荷。室温下即可享用。

    这道沙拉可以提前 15 分钟做好,但会稍微出水;为了获得最佳口感,请在食用前再淋上酱汁。

    实用贴士

    青木瓜沙拉是一道夏日开胃菜——清淡爽口,是享用丰盛主菜前天然的清口佳品。它与烤肉、米饭搭配极佳,也可以作为混合蔬菜香草拼盘的一部分。如果买不到青木瓜,在应急情况下可以用青芒果丝甚至苤蓝丝代替,不过风味会有所不同。