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Ha Nam:吃什么——游客美食指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · north · ha-nam

Ha Nam:吃什么——游客美食指南

Ha Nam 的美食水准绝对不容小觑。避开游客陷阱,去当地人排队的地方吃——砂锅鱼、糯米团子,以及红河三角洲最好的鸡蛋咖啡。

By the Wayfarer teamApr 28, 20265 min read
People buying snacks at an outdoor food stand in Hà Nam, Vietnam street market.
↑ People buying snacks at an outdoor food stand in Hà Nam, Vietnam street market.Photo by HONG SON on Pexels
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#ha nam#what to eat#north#red river delta#street food#clay pot fish#phu ly
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    Ha Nam 是 Hanoi 以南的一个宁静省份,在前往其他地方的途中很容易被忽视。但这正是为什么这里的食物尝起来依然是为真正生活在这里的人准备的,而不是为了在 Instagram 上打卡。如果你路过这里,或者以此为大本营进行一日游,一定要尝尝这些美食。

    地方特色美食

    Ha Nam 位于红河三角洲,因此你可以期待这里的糯米、淡水鱼,以及采摘后几小时内就送到市场的蔬菜。该省有几道特色菜很少流传到外省——因为当地人把它们当成秘密保留了下来。

    “碎米饭”(Com tam)在南方随处可见,但 Ha Nam 的版本更侧重于砂锅烹饪。米饭被压入砂锅中,底部形成一层薄薄的锅巴,然后加入鱼露、大蒜,有时还有猪肝或咸蛋一起蒸。你在餐桌上敲开砂锅——陶罐碎裂,米饭滚落出来,酥脆的锅巴吃起来就像烤过的谷物。满满一碗配上小菜的价格为 35,000–50,000 VND。

    砂锅鱼(“ca kho to”)是该省的招牌菜。他们使用较小的淡水鱼——通常是鲶鱼或黑鱼——在砂锅中加入焦糖、鱼露、大蒜和辣椒,用文火慢炖。汤汁会收缩成深色粘稠的糖浆状。它的味道浓郁、独特,绝不是你在游客餐厅里吃到的那种平淡无味的鱼。一锅够两人吃的鱼大约需要 60,000–90,000 VND。最好吃的砂锅鱼通常是自家做的或在家庭小摊上卖的;迎合游客的餐厅往往会放太多盐,而且煮得太老。

    “方形糯米粽”(Banh chung)是全国各地 Tet(春节)的主食,但 Ha Nam 的版本是用糯米包裹绿豆和猪肉,外面裹上竹叶,煮上好几个小时。在 Tet 之外的季节,你仍然可以在市场上找到它,通常被切成楔形块出售。一块的价格是 5,000–10,000 VND。它口感紧实,微甜,吃起来满是传统的味道。

    当地人去哪吃

    Dong Nhan 市场(Phu Ly 市 Dong Nhan 坊)

    这是一个真正的市场——不是面向游客的那种。早上 6:30 赶到,你会看到摊贩们向建筑工人和送货司机出售新鲜的“pho”(河粉)。这里的汤底比 Hanoi 风格的要清淡,最后会撒上一把新鲜香草,挤一点青柠汁。一碗“pho”的价格为 25,000–35,000 VND。这里的面条摊贩还做“banh canh”(木薯粗面汤),配上猪肉或虾——汤汁浓郁,分量十足,是那种让你一整天都充满能量的早餐。价格在 30,000–40,000 VND 之间。

    早上 8 点之后,市场开始转为售卖农产品和熟食。去寻找卖糯米的摊位——他们出售用竹叶包裹的金字塔形糯米团,里面通常塞满了咸鸭蛋黄或红豆沙。价格是 8,000–15,000 VND。市场北侧卖鸡蛋的摊贩不仅卖水煮蛋,还卖“trung hap lo”(砂锅烤蛋),这种蛋口感绵密,而且没有水煮蛋那种浓重的硫磺味。价格为 5,000–8,000 VND。

    Phu Ly 老城区(Ba Trieu 街)

    在傍晚时分(下午 4–6 点)漫步 Ba Trieu 街,你会看到狭小的苍蝇馆子开始出摊。一位系着蓝色围裙的妇女在炭火炉上烤着“bun cha”(烤猪肉拌米粉)。猪肉被剁碎,捏成肉饼,烤到边缘发黑。蘸酱由鱼露、青柠、大蒜和辣椒调制而成。她会配上一碗冷米粉、腌木瓜和新鲜香草一起端上桌。一份足够一个饥肠辘辘的人吃饱。价格为 30,000–40,000 VND。坐在塑料凳上,和当地人一起大快朵颐吧。

    Xuan Phuong 湖附近的螃蟹摊(Phu Ly 市以南)

    如果你租了摩托车,可以向 Phu Ly 以南骑行 5 km 前往 Xuan Phuong 湖。你会看到建在水上高脚柱上的简陋餐厅。它们都供应泥蟹——要么用盐和青柠清蒸,要么用大蒜和黑胡椒爆炒。如果你会讲价,价格还算公道:一只中等大小的螃蟹(300–400g)大约 150,000–200,000 VND。点上一只,拿一瓶冰镇啤酒,看着水上的渔民。这些地方并不高档——只有塑料椅子,没有空调,但食物却非常美味。

    在 Nam Dinh 烹饪的正宗越南砂锅鱼,展现了亚洲美食的丰富魅力。

    照片由 Hong Quang Official 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    街头小吃与零食

    鸡蛋咖啡(“ca phe trung”)并非 Ha Nam 独有,但这里的版本绝对值得一试。当地人声称红河三角洲的蛋黄更加浓郁。一杯鸡蛋咖啡的价格为 25,000–35,000 VND。坐在老城区附近的一家小咖啡馆里慢慢品尝;上面的奶泡很甜,底下的咖啡则苦涩而浓烈。

    烤鱿鱼(“muc nuong”)出现在傍晚的街头小摊上。摊贩从湖里买来整条鱿鱼,清洗干净后,放在金属烤架上用炭火烤制。他们会配上由辣椒、大蒜和青柠调制的蘸酱。几块鱿鱼的价格为 40,000–60,000 VND。如果鱿鱼新鲜且烤得恰到好处,肉质会非常鲜嫩——如果放久了,嚼起来就会像橡胶一样。

    炸豆腐(“tau huu chien”)是一种午后小吃。摊贩将豆腐块炸至金黄,配上微甜带咸的蘸酱。它们外酥里嫩。三块的价格为 3,000–5,000 VND。

    避雷指南

    除非你饿得走投无路,否则请避开主干道(1号国道)上的餐厅。它们主要接待旅游大巴,供应的都是平淡无味、提前煮好的流水线食物。你可以通过过塑的菜单板和贴在窗户上的食物照片来认出它们。

    同样,也要避开湖边新开的那些高档“海鲜餐厅”——它们通常是游客陷阱,价格虚高,而且质量还不如家庭小摊。

    夜间亚洲市场摊位上色彩鲜艳的传统装饰品和商品展示。

    照片由 HONG SON 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    消费预期

    在 Ha Nam 的当地小摊吃一顿丰盛的饭菜(主菜 + 米饭 + 蔬菜 + 饮料)大约需要 60,000–120,000 VND(约合 $2.50–$5 USD)。而部分面向游客的正规餐厅可能会收取 150,000–250,000 VND。酒水很便宜:街边小摊的一杯冰镇生啤只要 10,000–15,000 VND;一杯咖啡则是 15,000–25,000 VND。

    实用提示

    Ha Nam 位于 Hanoi 以南,开车需要 45 分钟。如果你住在首都,一日游是完全可行的——可以租一辆摩托车或打车。最佳的就餐时间是清晨(早上 6–8 点)在市场里,或者傍晚(下午 4–6 点)小摊开始生火做饭的时候。请携带现金;大多数街头摊贩不接受刷卡。带上一本常用语小册子或学习一下菜名——在 Hanoi 之外,很少有人会说英语。