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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hai-phong

海防市不容错过的早午餐去处

海防市的早晨美食选择丰富,从朴实无华的越南早餐摊位到提供地道周末早午餐的咖啡烘焙坊应有尽有——以下是上午8点至中午期间的用餐指南。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Top view of a delicious bowl of Vietnamese pho with beef and fresh herbs, showcasing traditional Asian cuisine.
↑ Top view of a delicious bowl of Vietnamese pho with beef and fresh herbs, showcasing traditional Asian cuisine.Photo by RDNE Stock project on Pexels
Tags
#hai phong#food guide#city guide#food#breakfast#brunch#vietnamese coffee#street food
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    海防市的美食地位被严重低估了。作为越南(Vietnam)第三大城市,海防拥有独特的饮食文化——比河内(Hanoi)的口味更浓郁、更咸鲜,且更偏爱海鲜——当地的晨间饮食文化正是这一特点的缩影。忘掉首都那些精致的早午餐菜单吧;在这里,迎接你的是热气腾腾的汤面、浓郁的冰咖啡,以及在城市苏醒前就已开门营业的烘焙坊。

    传统越南早餐

    Banh Mi Tiem — 海防版法棍

    海防的“banh mi”文化偏向于那些早上6点开门、9点前就售罄的法棍小店。最出名的一条街位于Tran Hung Dao,几十年来,几家家庭经营的小店一直用肉酱、猪头肉、黄瓜和少许辣椒填充法棍。价格通常在15,000–25,000 VND之间。你可以坐在店前的塑料小板凳上吃,也可以打包带走,边走边吃。

    Bun Bo — 晨间限定

    越南中北部著名的“bun bo hue”在北方各地都有变体,而海防也有自己独特的牛肉米粉,当地工人通常在早上6点到9点之间享用。分量十足,汤底带有浓郁的香茅味,但不如顺化原版那么辛辣,一碗价格在40,000–60,000 VND左右。寻找Le Loi街Cho Sat市场附近的摊位——那些在人行道上摆放塑料桌椅、排队最长的店通常开门最早。

    Banh Cuon — 给耐心的食客

    观看制作“banh cuon”的过程本身就是一种享受。薄如蝉翼的米皮在覆盖着布的锅上现蒸,包入调味猪肉和木耳,切段后配上一碗鱼露(nuoc cham)和一盘越南扎肉(cha lua)上桌。在海防,Ngu Hanh Son居民区附近的一些摊位从20世纪80年代就开始这样做了。预算在35,000–50,000 VND,记得在上午9点前到达,否则米浆就会用完。

    咖啡烘焙坊

    过去五年里,海防早午餐界最有趣的变化是咖啡烘焙坊的兴起。它们不仅是咖啡馆,烘焙水平也相当出色,绝非那种用速溶咖啡搭配陈旧可颂的店。

    位于Minh Khai的Maison de Vent表现一直很稳定:提供地道的法式糕点(如巧克力面包、焦糖海盐酥)、店内自制面包,以及周末供应的简易蛋类菜单。这里的越南咖啡选自大叻(Da Lat),采用滤壶冲泡而非挂耳包。早午餐盘价格在95,000–140,000 VND,咖啡45,000 VND起。周六上午9:30前通常会坐满。

    靠近Bach Dang河岸的The Dock Cafe则提供西式早餐和越南风味的混合选择——菜单上既有配煎蛋的“com tam”,也有牛油果吐司,这反映了它所针对的客群。在海防沿海微风习习的日子里,坐在户外露台用餐非常惬意。人均消费约80,000–130,000 VND。

    一位街头小贩在繁忙的夜市制作越南法棍。

    图片来源:Pragyan Bezbaruah,来自Pexels

    周末限定去处

    海防有一些优质的早午餐店仅在周六和周日营业,规划行程时请务必留意。

    Ngu Hanh Son附近的Nha Hang Xua在周末提供类似点心的餐点——虽非正宗粤式,但蒸饺、荷叶糯米饭和肉包完美融合了越南与中国沿海的饮食特色。这是海防港口城市底蕴在餐盘上的体现。人均120,000–180,000 VND,上午8点开门,售完即止(通常在上午11:30左右)。

    如果想找更小众的地方,Hoang Van Thu街上一栋法式殖民建筑的庭院里,周日上午会有一个快闪式的蛋咖啡和糕点摊位,口碑极佳。没有招牌,也没有社交媒体账号——你可以询问民宿老板,或者在周日上午8点到10点之间沿着那条街走,跟着黄油的香气寻找即可。

    关于越南咖啡

    海防拥有独特的咖啡文化,不同于河内的“蛋咖啡”或西贡的第三波咖啡浪潮。这里的标配是“ca phe sua da”——加炼乳的冰咖啡——用高玻璃杯盛装,味道浓郁,街头摊位仅需20,000–30,000 VND。在提供舒适座位的咖啡馆,价格约为35,000–55,000 VND。

    如果你想将咖啡文化与建筑欣赏结合起来,Dinh Tien Hoang沿街的一系列老咖啡馆非常值得花上一小时慢慢品味,其中一些建筑可追溯到法国殖民时期。点上一杯,翻开书本,静静感受这座城市的节奏。

    一张木桌上摆放着冰咖啡、可颂和书籍,营造出温馨的氛围。

    图片来源:Sóc Năng Động,来自Pexels

    外籍人士偏好的选择

    海防的外籍人口比河内或西贡(Saigon)少,但工业区吸引了源源不断的韩国、日本和台湾员工,餐饮业也随之调整。在My Khe和Cat Bi地区附近形成了一片咖啡馆和西式早餐店聚集区,提供英式早餐、地道滤泡咖啡和果昔碗,价格多在100,000–160,000 VND之间。如果你特别想念班尼迪克蛋,这里是不错的选择,但它们并不是海防最值得尝试的特色美食。

    实用贴士

    海防大多数传统早餐店在上午10点后就结束营业了——如果你打算去街头摊位吃“bun rieu”或“banh cuon”,记得定好闹钟。咖啡烘焙坊则可以一直营业到中午。Grab-Bike是穿梭于各地点之间最快的方式,中心城区内单程通常在20,000–40,000 VND。

    海防市不容错过的早午餐去处 | Vietnam Wayfarer