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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

初次访越:河内老城区半日美食之旅

四小时,四站,让你胃口大满足。这条老城区美食路线涵盖了河内最地道的经典美味,无需为去哪儿吃而纠结。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Delicious Vietnamese rice noodle bowl with steak, lettuce, and mushroom in a patterned bowl.
↑ Delicious Vietnamese rice noodle bowl with steak, lettuce, and mushroom in a patterned bowl.Photo by FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels
Tags
#foodie itinerary#food#hanoi#old quarter#street food#breakfast#pho#bun cha#egg coffee#banh mi
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— 完 —

最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    四小时的时间,足以让你品尝到河内的核心风味——只要你知道去哪儿吃。这条路线最适合在早晨进行,从早上7点左右开始,此时城市喧嚣,汤头新鲜,塑料小板凳还没被坐热。

    第一站 — 早餐吃 Pho(7:00–7:45)

    河内是世界上极少数在早上8点前吃“pho”会让人觉得无比惬意的地方之一。北方的做法比你在西贡吃到的口味更清淡——清澈且鲜味浓郁的骨汤、扁平的米粉、薄切牛肉,再配上一碟葱花和新鲜辣椒。没有豆芽,也没有海鲜酱。别问为什么没有。

    位于 Lo Duc 的 Pho Thin(距离老城区核心约1公里)最为出名,但对于住在老城区内的初次游客来说,位于 Bat Dan 街49号的 Pho Gia Truyen 是首选。它早上6点开门,通常9点就卖光了。排队人数通常在五到十人之间——翻台很快。一碗面大约60,000–70,000 VND。别人指哪里你就坐哪里,吃得快一点,吃完赶紧腾出位子。这就是这里的规矩。

    第二站 — 上午茶吃 Banh Mi(8:15–8:45)

    步行约10分钟向东北方向前往 Hang Buom 或 Hang Be,找一家卖“banh mi”的摊位,那种看起来已经开了很久的摊子。河内版的 banh mi 比西贡风格的法棍更细、更脆——馅料没那么满,更注重面包本身的口感。好的 banh mi 会塞入肉酱、冷切肉、少许黄油、腌萝卜丝、胡萝卜丝、黄瓜条,再淋上一抹辣椒酱。

    位于 Hang Ca 街的 Banh Mi 25 非常有名且品质稳定,尽管总是排长队。价格:35,000–50,000 VND,视馅料而定。如果你看到一位推着小车的大妈,周围围了一圈完全无视你的当地人,那这绝对比门上贴的任何 TripAdvisor 贴纸都更有说服力。

    站着吃或者边走边吃。这是唯一正确的吃法。

    一碗令人垂涎的越南 pho,配有新鲜香草和配菜,是美食爱好者的不二之选。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    第三站 — 午餐吃 Bun Cha(11:30–12:30)

    这是本次美食之旅的重头戏。“Bun cha”是河内的特色菜——烤猪肉饼和切片五花肉浸泡在酸甜鲜香的蘸汤中,配上一盘凉米粉和一篮香草。你蘸着吃、拌着吃,按照自己的节奏享用。这是越南美食中比较悠闲的一餐。

    位于 Le Van Huu 街24号的 Bun Cha Huong Lien ——距离老城区向南步行约15分钟或短途 Grab 摩托车程——就是安东尼·波登(Anthony Bourdain)和奥巴马(Barack Obama)在2016年奥巴马访问越南时一起用餐的地方。餐厅对此非常引以为傲(入口处挂着合影),但食物确实地道,分量也很足。一份包含 nem cua be(炸蟹肉春卷)的套餐大约80,000–100,000 VND。

    如果你不想离开老城区,Hang Manh 街上的 Bun Cha Dac Kim 自20世纪60年代起就开始招待当地人了。价格稍便宜,环境稍显混乱,但同样值得一试。

    “Nem chua”——发酵猪肉卷——有时在 bun cha 店里作为配菜提供。如果看到,值得尝试。

    第四站 — 结尾来杯蛋咖啡(13:00–14:00)

    以坐下来休息结束行程。“蛋咖啡(Egg coffee)”——ca phe trung——是河内的发明:罗布斯塔咖啡上覆盖着一层由蛋黄、炼乳搅拌而成的奶泡,有时还会加入少许奶酪或黄油。口感浓郁、香甜,介于甜点和咖啡因补给品之间。慢慢品尝。

    位于 Nguyen Huu Huan 街39号的 Cafe Giang 据说是这种饮料在20世纪40年代的发明地,当时牛奶稀缺,蛋黄成了替代品。咖啡馆位于狭窄的楼梯上方,座位拥挤,杯子很小。价格在30,000–40,000 VND 左右。如果你更喜欢宽敞的环境,还剑湖附近 Dinh Tien Hoang 街上有一家更新、更通风的分店。

    或者,Dinh Tien Hoang 街上的 Cafe Dinh 也提供品质稳定的蛋咖啡,窗边座位可以俯瞰湖景,非常适合观察午后慢下来的城市节奏。

    Little Hanoi 两杯带有搅打奶油的冰咖啡特写,是休息放松的完美选择。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Pragyan Bezbaruah

    交通建议

    老城区面积紧凑——这条路线上的大多数站点彼此距离都在1-2公里以内。在天气变热前的早晨步行非常舒适。在 bun cha 店和蛋咖啡店之间打一辆 Grab 摩托车大约需要15,000–25,000 VND,可以节省约15分钟。在老城区内短途移动尽量避免打出租车;交通拥堵会让车速比你步行还慢。

    如果你想在午餐后消消食,附近的 Dong Xuan 市场值得一逛——在午后宁静到来之前,去底楼看看批发食品摊位很有趣。

    实用贴士

    带上小面额钞票——20,000 和 50,000 VND 的纸币——因为许多街头摊位找零不便。这条路线上的大多数站点不接受刷卡。如果可以,尽量选择工作日前往;周末早晨的老城区人流明显更多,一些老字号 pho 店卖光的速度也比平时更快。