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  3. 何时在 Hoi An 品尝 Hoanh Thanh:早餐、午餐还是晚餐?
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hoi-an

何时在 Hoi An 品尝 Hoanh Thanh:早餐、午餐还是晚餐?

Hoi An 的炸云吞是古镇中传承至今的中国商人遗产。以下是品尝这道美食的最佳时间和地点。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Street vendor cart in Ho Chi Minh City with stacks of plastic cups and bustling street in the background.
↑ Street vendor cart in Ho Chi Minh City with stacks of plastic cups and bustling street in the background.Photo by Vuong on Pexels
Tags
#hoanh thanh wontons#hoi an#guide#food#street food#chinese heritage#old town
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Hoi An 的 “hoanh thanh” 与你在 Saigon 华人区吃到的那种浸在汤里的软糯云吞截然不同。这里的云吞被炸得金黄酥脆,形状如同小金字塔,上面铺着由虾仁、番茄和葱花炒制的浇头,再淋上一层酸味酱汁,正好化解了油炸的腻感。这道菜的配方可以追溯到 17 世纪定居于此的福建和广东商人,尽管岁月流逝,这种饮食习惯却被完整地保留了下来。

    大多数游客最容易搞错的就是用餐时间。在 Hoi An,品尝 Hoanh Thanh 并非全天候皆宜。摊位有着各自的营业逻辑,如果你在错误的时间造访,很可能只会看到塑料凳和紧闭的卷帘门。

    早餐 — 最不寻常的时段

    古镇有少数几家店从早上 7 点左右开始供应 Hoanh Thanh,作为早餐菜单的一部分。不过,不要指望这么早就能吃到那种完整的炸云吞塔——你更有可能吃到的是 “hoanh thanh nuoc”(汤云吞),它通常与 “cao lau” 和 “banh cuon” 一起出现在早餐轮换菜单中。

    话虽如此,位于 Ba Le Well 巷(Phan Chau Trinh 路,靠近著名的古井)的 Quan Hoanh Thanh Ba Le 有时会在开门后接受现炸订单。如果你在早上 8 点前到达并询问,如果油温够高,他们会为你制作。一份的价格大约在 35,000–45,000 VND。这是该菜品的一个清淡版本:酱汁较少,分量较小,在旅游团涌入巷子之前快速吃完最为合适。

    如果你想避开喧嚣,无需为抢座位而烦恼,那么早餐时段是你的最佳选择。但如果你追求的是那种分量十足、午餐风格的完整版本,这个时间段并不推荐。

    午餐 — 巅峰时段,也是最佳选择

    这是在 Hoi An 品尝 Hoanh Thanh 的黄金时间,原因很简单:厨房备料充足,虾仁是当天早上从 Bach Dang 市场运来的新鲜货,厨师们这周已经熟练地制作了数百次这道菜。

    古镇最稳妥的午餐去处是位于 Tran Phu 街的 Phuong Hoanh Thanh,位置大约在靠近日本廊桥的那一头。他们通常在上午 10 点左右开门,往往在下午 2 点前就售罄了。这里的炸云吞(“hoanh thanh chien”)通常叠放 6 到 8 个,上面铺着虾仁番茄酱,再淋上一层甜辣酱。价格约为 50,000–65,000 VND,视分量而定。店里环境嘈杂,桌椅共享,翻台率极高。这正是它的魅力所在。

    在不远处的 Nguyen Thai Hoc 街,还有几家无名摊位也在午餐时段供应炸云吞——寻找那些手写着 “hoanh thanh chien” 字样的招牌,街边就能看到炸制的工作台。这些摊位的价格通常便宜 10,000–15,000 VND,虽然卖相稍逊,但其核心配方与古镇传承了几代的中国风味如出一辙。

    如果你正在规划 Hoi An 的美食之旅,可以将云吞与 Tran Phu 街 Hoi An 中央市场摊位的一碗 cao lau 搭配享用,吃完后散散步,然后再回来喝杯咖啡。

    Hoi An 灯火通明的河流与街道的壮丽航拍图,捕捉了充满活力的夜晚场景。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Vietnam Hidden Light

    晚餐 — 可以尝试,但品质不稳定

    Hoi An 的夜间餐饮场景更倾向于 Bach Dang 沿河的餐厅和 Le Loi 街面向游客的菜单。你晚上确实能找到 Hoanh Thanh,但品质参差不齐,价格还会上涨 20%–30%,而出品质量却并未相应提升。

    灯笼映照下的氛围确实很棒,让一切吃起来都比实际更好。但如果你是专程为了 Hoanh Thanh 而来,晚餐时段是最弱的选择。许多地方的虾仁浇头是预先煮好再加热的,而云吞皮——本应在叉子戳下去时发出清脆的碎裂声——往往因为放置时间过长而变得软塌。

    例外情况是:位于 Nguyen Thai Hoc 的 Cargo Club 提供一种经过改良的摆盘版本,品质能保持到晚上,更符合国际口味。价格在 95,000–110,000 VND 左右。味道不错,但少了些地道的感觉。

    摆放在陶瓷盘子里的美味越南春卷,配有蘸酱。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Lucio Panerai

    你到底在吃什么?

    云吞皮是薄薄的小麦面皮,折叠成三角形后油炸至起泡。里面的馅料很少——只有少许调味猪肉或虾泥——因为这道菜的精髓在于上面的浇头。虾仁番茄酱是这道菜的灵魂:酸甜适中,足够的酸度让炸面皮吃起来不会感到油腻。这道菜的结构设计比看起来要巧妙得多。

    Hoi An 距离 Da Nang 很近,一日游的游客往往因为下午才到、日落即走而错过了 Hoanh Thanh。如果你在 Hoi An 停留两到三晚——这是最明智的安排——请务必专门安排一顿午餐来品尝这道美食。

    实用小贴士

    上午 11 点到下午 1 点之间是古镇品尝炸 Hoanh Thanh 的最佳窗口;请尽早前往,否则热门店铺很快就会售罄。街边摊位仅收现金,请准备好零钱(5,000–20,000 VND 面额)。如果你从核心区域外进入古镇,可能需要支付古镇门票。