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  3. 顺化啤酒指南:Bia Hoi 街角、精酿酒头与地道饮酒体验
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

顺化啤酒指南:Bia Hoi 街角、精酿酒头与地道饮酒体验

顺化的啤酒文化比 Hanoi 或 Saigon 更安静、更接地气——只要走出游客聚集区,你就能发现新鲜的扎啤摊、日益兴起的精酿文化,以及与当地美食绝配的饮酒体验。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Cozy street bar in Vietnam with colorful bottles and Bromance Beer sign.
↑ Cozy street bar in Vietnam with colorful bottles and Bromance Beer sign.Photo by Vietnam Hidden Light on Pexels
Tags
#hue#food guide#city guide#food#beer#bia hoi#craft beer#local drinks#nightlife
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    Hue 没有 Hanoi 那种喧嚣的街头啤酒文化,也没有 Saigon 那种酒吧林立的活力。这里拥有的是一种更缓慢、更纯粹的氛围:当地人在漫长轮班结束后聚集的塑料凳摊位、与城市酒厂紧密相连的扎啤传统,以及几家扎根于此、不刻意追求潮流的精酿小店。

    Bia Hoi 的情况

    “Bia hoi”——即每天新鲜酿造并按杯廉价出售的扎啤——最常与 Hanoi 联系在一起,但 Hue 也有属于自己的这种文化,尽管名字没有被大声宣扬。寻找那些聚集在 Tran Cao Van 街以及从 Dong Ba Market 向南延伸的小巷里、挂着蓝白相间 Huda Beer 遮阳伞的摊位。在这些地方,一杯 330 毫升的冰镇扎啤价格约为 10,000–15,000 VND,而且还会附赠小吃。

    Huda 是当地的啤酒品牌,它在这里的地位是 Tiger 或 Saigon (西贡) 在其他地方无法比拟的。自 1994 年通过合资企业在 Hue 酿造以来,它一直是一种比大多数竞争对手更清爽的淡拉格啤酒——真正好喝,而不仅仅是冰凉。如果可以的话,请点扎啤;罐装的虽然也不错,但从这些街角摊位正规酒头打出来的扎啤明显更好喝。

    Hue 的 bia hoi 节奏通常从傍晚开始,一直持续到入夜。下午 5 点,塑料凳上就开始坐满了人。到了晚上 8 点,许多街角摊位就开始收摊了。这不是一座适合凌晨 2 点喝酒的城市——至少在当地的习惯中不是这样。

    当地人真正去哪喝酒

    在 Phu Cat 社区附近的 Nguyen Dinh Chieu 街路段,你会发现最集中的当地啤酒摊——全都是 Huda,价格便宜,供应煮花生、烤串以及店主手头有的各种干海鲜。这些地方没有英文菜单。看看隔壁桌在吃什么,指给店主看就行了。

    位于南岸、与 Huong 河平行的 Chu Van An 街,有几家较大的露天餐厅,它们是上班族和家庭晚间聚会的啤酒大厅。座位延伸到人行道上,灯光是荧光灯,没有人为了游客而表演“地道感”。这正是它的魅力所在。

    如果想要稍微正式一点的地方——有真正的桌子,有双语菜单,但价格依然亲民——Chi Lang 街附近的 com hen 和 bun bo hue 餐厅通常在提供食物的同时供应冰镇 Huda。你不是去酒吧,你是在吃一顿正餐,而啤酒只是佐餐之物。

    一张越南 banh mi 和啤酒放在 Hanoi 街边咖啡馆桌子上的特写,散发着质朴而地道的氛围。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Flo Dahm

    本地与外国人的分界

    这种分界确实存在,值得一提。背包客区附近的 Pham Ngu Lao 街和 Vo Thi Sau 街路段有几家酒吧,以当地价格的三到四倍出售进口精酿啤酒和鸡尾酒。氛围不错,员工会说英语,这一切都没什么问题——但这只是与真实生活并行的一套经济体系。

    这种隔阂并非敌对。当地人并不反感游客坐在 bia hoi 的街角。但你需要迈出第一步。拉过一把塑料凳,指指扎啤机,说一声“mot Huda”——来一杯 Huda。这招百试百灵。

    精酿啤酒场景

    Hue 的精酿啤酒场景虽然规模不大,但非常纯粹。Hue Craft Beer 在 Huong 河北岸附近经营着一家品酒室,自 2010 年代末以来一直在生产小批量的拉格和艾尔啤酒。其主打的淡色艾尔啤酒平衡感很好,不会过于浓烈——这是专为当地口味酿造的,当地人倾向于更清淡、苦味较少的风格。一杯 330 毫升的啤酒价格在 50,000–70,000 VND 左右。

    An Cuu 社区的一些新店开始在 Huda 标准啤酒之外储备区域性的精酿品牌——有些菜单上会出现来自 Saigon 的 Pasteur Street,也有 Heart of Darkness。这些不是专门的精酿品酒室;它们只是恰好有有趣酒头的休闲餐厅。查看冰箱里的存货,而不是菜单。

    一艘色彩鲜艳的龙舟停泊在多云天空下的河岸边,展示着精美的艺术。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    啤酒搭配建议

    这正是 Hue 有趣的地方。这座城市的食物比你在 Hanoi 或 Saigon 吃到的更辛辣、发酵味更浓,冰镇啤酒能以茶或软饮无法比拟的方式化解这种浓郁。

    “Bun bo Hue (顺化牛肉粉)”——这座城市的招牌牛肉猪肉米粉,以香茅和虾酱汤底为特色——味道火辣,吃到一半来一杯冰镇 Huda 是个不错的主意。啤酒的苦味可以重置味蕾。

    Hue 的“Banh xeo”与南方的同类产品略有不同——更小、更脆,包裹的香草更多。搭配一盘这样的煎饼,蘸上刺鼻的当地发酵虾酱,再来一杯冰镇扎啤,这是当地人很久以前就发现的绝妙组合。

    还有“nem chua (酸肉肠)”——Hue 的发酵猪肉卷,在市场上以小纸包的形式出售——几乎总是配着啤酒吃。nem 的酸味和 Huda 扎啤的轻微气泡感结合在一起,确实值得一试。

    如果你在喝精酿,淡色艾尔风格更适合搭配较重的炖菜。Hue 的宫廷饮食传统意味着晚间菜单上从不缺乏浓郁的慢炖猪肉菜肴。

    实用提示

    大多数当地的 bia hoi 街角摊位营业时间为下午 4 点至晚上 9 点;不要指望能喝到深夜。Huda 扎啤是你的价格标杆——如果某个摊位卖超过 20,000 VND 一杯,那你就在游客区了。打车软件(Grab, Be)在 Hue 非常好用,这让你没有任何理由不去探索城堡南部的社区,那里才是最好的当地啤酒摊所在地。