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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

像顺化皇室一样用餐:三天深度美食之旅

顺化的皇家烹饪传统比越南任何其他城市都更为深厚——花三天时间,你足以彻底领略这里的饮食精髓。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
A vibrant assortment of Asian cuisine, showcasing soups, noodles, and spring rolls, garnished with fresh herbs.
↑ A vibrant assortment of Asian cuisine, showcasing soups, noodles, and spring rolls, garnished with fresh herbs.Photo by Adam on Pexels
Tags
#foodie itinerary#food#hue#royal cuisine#cooking class#street food#markets#central vietnam
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Bo Kho: The Vietnamese Beef Stew Worth Knowing Inside Out

    Hue 的烹饪方式与越南其他地区截然不同。这座城市曾作为皇都近150年,这段历史塑造了一种精确、耗时且对摆盘有着近乎执着追求的饮食文化。在这里花上三天时间专门寻味,一点也不过分——甚至还嫌不够。

    第一天——市场、街头小吃与平民餐桌

    从 Dong Ba Market 开始

    在早上7点前赶到 Dong Ba Market。一楼是食品区,这是你了解顺化饮食逻辑的最佳起点。摊贩们售卖 "banh cuon"(蒸米卷,比你在 Hanoi 找到的任何版本都要薄),以及顺化人当作零食一样随意享用的发酵猪肉卷 "nem chua"。这两样小吃的价格都在15,000至25,000 VND之间。

    花一个小时逛逛摊位。买之前可以要求试吃,没人会介意。

    午餐:Nguyen Cong Tru 街的 Bun Bo Hue

    如果你这辈子只打算吃一碗 "bun bo hue",那就一定要在顺化吃。汤底带有浓郁的香茅味,微辣且鲜美无比——这与 pho 完全不同。位于 Nguyen Cong Tru 街的 Quan Bun Bo Hue Ba Tuyen 就是那种摆着塑料凳、没有英文菜单、且在上午11点就排起长队的店。一碗售价约35,000 VND,猪蹄是必点项。

    下午:Banh Khoai 与南岸

    穿过 Phu Xuan 大桥来到 Huong 河南岸,在 Truong Tien 大桥附近寻找那些专门制作 "banh khoai" 的小餐馆——这是顺化的铁板米饼,比南方的 "banh xeo" 更小、更脆。Phan Chu Trinh 街上的 Quan Hang Me 很值得推荐。记得点上一整套香草和发酵虾酱蘸料,每个饼的价格在40,000至60,000 VND左右。

    晚上:寻味 Com Hen

    Con Hen 小岛距离市中心仅十分钟车程,是顺化 (Hue) 特色美食 "com hen" 的发源地——这是一种将小蛤蜊铺在冷米饭上的料理,佐以虾酱、猪油渣、花生和辛辣的辣椒油。听起来像是随意的搭配,吃起来却令人惊艳。价格在20,000至30,000 VND之间。记得在天黑前去。

    第二天——跟随前宫廷厨师上烹饪课

    上午:烹饪课程

    在 Le Loi 街的一座修复后的木质建筑里,预订一堂由 Hue Traditional Cuisine Club 开设的半日课程。这里的几位导师都有着皇室御膳房的传承背景——其中一位60多岁的 Co Hoa 女士,曾师从最后一位服务于皇室的厨师。她用越南语教学并配有翻译,教学节奏非常从容。

    课程内容随季节变化,但你通常会学做 "banh bot loc"(包裹着虾和猪肉的木薯粉饺子)、迷你版的 "com am phu"(顺化街头美食拼盘,又称“阴间饭”),以及至少一种清汤。课程时间为上午8:30至中午。费用约为每人650,000至800,000 VND,包含食材以及你亲手制作的午餐。

    下午:休息,随后参观皇陵

    下午放慢节奏。如果你想为今晚的晚餐寻找文化背景,可以参观 Khai Dinh 陵——那里的建筑极尽奢华,反映出与皇家烹饪相同的理念:没有太小的细节,没有不加装饰的表面。从市中心出发,乘坐摩托车出租车(xe om)或 Grab 约8公里即可到达。

    晚上:Tinh Gia Vien 晚餐

    位于 Nguyen Binh Khiem 街的 Tinh Gia Vien 是城中最正宗的皇家菜餐厅。它坐落在一座19世纪的庭院式住宅内,供应固定的皇家宴席菜单——包含12到15道菜,按顺序上桌,每一道都遵循皇室厨房要求的传统摆盘风格。期待莲藕沙拉、甘蔗虾泥、带有手工雕刻蔬菜装饰的米纸卷,以及至少两道汤。用餐时间约为两个小时。预算每人350,000至500,000 VND。请提前一天预订。

    在越南顺化市场拍摄的配有新鲜香草、辣椒和鱼露的越南面条。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Pew Nguyen

    第三天——深度体验:寺庙素食与市场采购

    上午:Tu Hieu 宝塔的顺化素食

    顺化的素食传统比越南其他任何地方都要深厚,这与当地的佛教寺庙息息相关。距离市中心约4公里的 Tu Hieu 宝塔在农历初一和十五供应简单的素食早餐,但每天早上6点起,宝塔入口处都会聚集几家小型的 com chay(素食饭)店。一整盘价格为25,000至35,000 VND。食物朴实真诚:豆腐、空心菜、炖菠萝蜜和蒸米饭。

    上午晚些时候:有目的的二次市场采购

    回到 Dong Ba 市场或尝试 An Cuu 市场(规模较小,游客较少),带着清单去购物。买一包干的 "banh trang"(顺化芝麻米饼)、一罐 "tuong"(顺化发酵豆酱)和一些 "ruoc"(干猪肉松)。这些是你回家后想要复刻的味道,在顺化以外很难找到。

    午餐:Co Hang Banh Beo

    "Banh beo"——铺着干虾仁和葱油的蒸米糕——是顺化最被低估的菜肴。位于 Nguyen Binh Khiem 街的 Co Hang 依然沿用古法制作:单个陶瓷小碟、虾粉、淋上一勺炼猪油。二十个小碟售价40,000 VND。全部吃光吧。

    最后一下午:河上的 Ca Hue

    在水上结束这次旅程。预订一次黄昏时分在 Huong 河上的龙舟游,行程包含现场表演的 "ca Hue"——这是前皇室宫廷的古典室内乐,介于民歌与宫廷仪式之间。游船从下午5点左右开始从 Toa Kham 码头出发。费用约为每人100,000至150,000 VND。音乐缓慢而精准,在这座城市待了三天后,你会觉得这种节奏再合适不过了。

    在越南顺化市场拍摄的配有新鲜香草、辣椒和鱼露的越南面条。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Pew Nguyen

    实用小贴士

    顺化的美食区非常集中,这份清单上的所有地点几乎都不超过3公里——骑自行车或打几次 Grab 就能轻松覆盖。皇家餐厅是唯一需要提前预订的地方;其他地方均可直接前往。记得饿着肚子早点出发:大多数街头小吃摊在上午10点前就会卖光。