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顺化宫廷料理:外来者指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

顺化宫廷料理:外来者指南

顺化的御膳传统在越南独树一帜——精致、克制且极其讲究细节。本文将带你了解其背后的含义以及去哪里品尝。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Delicious spring rolls with shrimp and greens served with sauce and chopsticks on an elegant table setting.
↑ Delicious spring rolls with shrimp and greens served with sauce and chopsticks on an elegant table setting.Photo by Lucio Panerai on Pexels
Tags
#regional specialty#food#hue#imperial cuisine#nguyen dynasty#street food#restaurant guide
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Com Hen in Hue: Cheap Stall vs Sit-Down Restaurant, Compared

    Hue 的美食常被誉为越南(Vietnam)最精致的地区菜系,这种说法虽然没错,但却抓不住重点。阮朝留下的不仅仅是一套食谱,而是一整套关于食物外观、上菜方式以及一顿正式餐点应包含多少道菜的饮食哲学。对于外来者来说,在没有背景知识的情况下接触这一传统可能会感到困惑,本指南旨在为你提供帮助。

    什么是“宫廷料理”?

    阮氏君主在 Hue(顺化)统治了超过 150 年,皇室发展出了一种刻意区别于普通越南日常饮食的饮食文化。据史料记载,皇帝的日常膳食要求包含 50 道菜,分多道上桌,由专门的御膳房人员精心烹制,并以近乎仪式感的精确度呈现。

    食物本身大量借鉴了越南中部的食材——虾酱、香茅、姜黄、新鲜香草——但其制作过程比你在街头摊位上看到的要费力得多。分量很小,摆盘刻意。其色调——深红、翠绿、明黄——与你在 Imperial Citadel 各处看到的装饰图案相互呼应。

    这座城市也是 "bun bo hue" 的发源地,这是一种香辣且香茅味浓郁的牛肉米粉,大多数当地人认为它作为早餐比任何正式宴席上的菜肴都更令人满足。街头小吃与宫廷料理共存,两者都值得你花时间去品尝。

    必须了解的核心菜品

    如今在 Hue,一顿正宗的宫廷式餐点通常包含几道具有皇室血统的菜肴,尽管它们现在已在城市各处作为日常小吃食用。

    "Banh beo" —— 盛在浅陶瓷碟中的小型蒸米糕,上面撒有干虾仁和酥脆的猪皮。它们看起来装饰性很强,因为它们本就是为此设计的。吃的时候用小勺子,再淋上一层鱼露。

    "Banh nam" 和 "banh loc" —— 另外两种蒸米粉制品,前者扁平并用香蕉叶包裹,后者半透明,内馅为虾和猪肉。两者最初都是宫廷点心。

    "Com hen" —— 一种冷米饭料理,上面铺有小蛤蜊、花生、芝麻、酥脆猪皮和一把香草。这现在是街头小吃,在 Dong Ba market 区域附近的小推车上售卖,价格约为 20,000–25,000 VND。但它的风味平衡——同时具备独特的鲜味、脆感、清新和浓郁——反映了定义 Hue 烹饪的层次复杂性。

    "Che" —— 构成宫廷餐点甜点部分的甜汤和布丁类。Hue 的 Che 品种比越南任何地方都多:che bap(玉米)、che dau van(绿豆)、che hat sen(莲子)。其中用 Tinh Tam 湖莲子制作的莲子羹具有特殊的历史分量。

    "Mi quang" —— 虽然更多与 Da Nang(岘港)和广南省联系在一起,但宽大的姜黄黄色面条也出现在 Hue 的厨房里,这证明了越南中部的饮食传统是如何跨越省界相互融合的。

    传统越南 Banh Loc 的俯视图,配有新鲜食材和装饰。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Pew Nguyen

    多道菜的用餐形式

    现代 Hue 餐厅供应的宫廷宴席是一种戏剧性的重现——没人会假装皇帝真的要来用餐。但这种形式确实让你感受到用餐的逻辑:菜肴分批上桌,从咸到甜,从清淡的口感过渡到浓郁的口感。在专门的宫廷料理餐厅,一顿完整的餐点包含 8–12 道菜,价格在每人 250,000–500,000 VND 之间,具体取决于餐厅。

    在这里,摆盘的重要性远超大多数越南餐厅。菜肴盛在漆器或青花瓷器中。有些餐厅会让员工身着 "ao dai(奥黛)" 上菜,根据你对这种历史场景的接受程度,这可能显得迷人或庸俗——但戏剧性外表下的食物通常确实非常美味。

    探索越南顺化皇城历史古门的复杂建筑。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer

    去哪里吃

    位于 Nguyen Binh Khiem 街的 Tinh Gia Vien 是当地真正关心烹饪而非表演的食客中最常提到的名字。店主花多年时间研究阮朝时期的食谱,这里的 banh beo 和 banh loc 是城中最好的。晚餐请提前预订,因为经常客满。

    位于 Huong(香江)南岸附近的 Thuong Truong 餐厅提供每人约 300,000 VND 的中档宫廷套餐。虽然不如一些竞争对手那样精致,但食物真材实料,环境宁静。

    如果你想在没有仪式感的情况下品尝接近宫廷风味的 Hue 家常菜,Quan Com Hue Ba Do 是你的好去处。这是一家家庭经营的午餐点,营业到食物售罄为止(通常在下午 1 点前),供应 com hen、banh beo 以及轮换供应的砂锅菜,每道菜 30,000–60,000 VND。

    对于街头层面的探索,Dong Ba 市场附近的小巷是当地妇女在摩托车上摆放托盘售卖 banh beo 和 banh loc 的地方。这是同一种饮食传统最便宜、最直接的版本,在尝试正式餐点之前非常值得一试。

    一些实用建议

    Hue 的宫廷餐厅集中在香江以南和皇城附近的区域——从市中心的多数旅馆步行即可到达。如果你是专程为了美食而来,两天的时间足以让你同时体验正式的餐厅和街头小吃版本。午餐通常是这里更好的用餐选择;一些最好的餐厅甚至不提供晚餐服务。