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在Lam Dong吃什么:地道美食与寻味指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · central · da-lat

在Lam Dong吃什么:地道美食与寻味指南

Lam Dong的饮食文化融合了中部高原的传统与Da Lat凉爽气候下的农业特色。避开游客餐厅,像当地人一样去品尝地道美食吧。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 21, 20266 min read
Elderly woman cooking traditional Vietnamese dish in Đà Lạt night market, Việt Nam.
↑ Elderly woman cooking traditional Vietnamese dish in Đà Lạt night market, Việt Nam.Photo by LUC PH@M on Pexels
Tags
#lam dong#what to eat#central#da lat#street food#markets#local cuisine
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    Lam Dong省并不像Hanoi或Saigon那样名列美食旅游版图,但这正是这里的美食能保持纯粹的原因。该地区的特色处于高原地理环境(高海拔、薄雾、凉爽的夜晚)与多民族饮食文化交汇的十字路口——Tay族、Kinh族和Nung族的传统都在餐盘中得以体现。大多数游客只去过首府Da Lat,但该省向南延伸至Thap Cham和Bao Loc,每个地方都有其独特的饮食习惯。

    Lam Dong的招牌美食

    Cha ca loc(砂锅鲶鱼) 是外地人最容易错过的美食。这并非Lam Dong独有,但该省清凉纯净的水质使得这里的鲶鱼肉质紧实鲜甜。做法很简单:将鲶鱼柳与姜黄、莳萝和黑胡椒一起在砂锅中炖煮,搭配新鲜米粉和鱼露蘸料食用。一份正宗的砂锅鲶鱼价格在80,000–120,000 VND之间。你可以在Da Lat的Xuan Huong Lake附近的小餐馆找到它,尤其是在靠近市场的南侧边缘。避开Thang Loi Street(主要游客区)上的餐厅——他们不仅溢价50%,而且调味不足。相反,你可以在傍晚时分走进任何一家“[com tam](/posts/com-tam-saigon (사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン)-broken-rice)”(碎米饭)店,问问老板当天是否有cha ca。他们通常都有,而且价格只有一半。

    Com lam(竹筒饭) 出现在全省各地的路边摊上,尤其是在Da Lat (달랏 / 大叻 / ダラット)和Thap Cham之间的公路上。糯米被塞进中空的竹筒里,在炭火上烤熟,使其带有一丝淡淡的烟熏味,而与竹子接触的部分则形成了一层有嚼劲的锅巴。它通常蘸盐吃,或者用香蕉叶裹着烤鱼一起吃。价格:每筒15,000–25,000 VND。最好的摊位往往没有招牌;只需寻找炊烟和成堆的竹子即可。在下午5–7点左右,每个村子都会有一两家在做。

    Nem chua(酸肉肠) 是Lam Dong的主食之一,不过这里的版本比北方的肉更多,醋味更淡。将猪肉碎、大蒜和香料用米纸包裹起来,发酵3–5天。在Da Lat Central Market (Cho Da Lat),你会看到它们按重量出售,价格为每公斤60,000–80,000 VND。它们可以作为零食,也可以作为下酒的开胃菜。市场后门附近一位老妇人经营的摊位(打听一下“nem chua cu”)卖的肉肠,始终比卖给游客的包装版要好得多。

    Banh da nhat(薄木薯糕) 是Da Lat鲜为人知的甜点。将木薯粉和椰子混合成薄而有嚼劲的薄片,在宽锅中煎熟,然后切成方块,淋上蜂蜜或炼乳即可食用。在早市上按重量出售,每份30,000–50,000 VND。你可以在Cho Da Lat找到它,或者在清晨(早上6–8点)去Xuan Huong Lake的佛塔附近的街边摊寻找。趁热吃口感最佳。

    当地人真正吃饭的地方

    Da Lat Central Market (Cho Da Lat) 是这座城市饮食文化的支柱。与游客市场不同,这里90%都是当地顾客。一楼卖蔬菜、水果和干货;二楼卖熟食。拉一把塑料凳子在摊位前坐下——点一份“banh canh”(清汤猪肉木薯面)、“com tam”(烤猪排腌木瓜碎米饭),或者从侧门买一份“banh mi (반미 / 越式法包 / バインミー)”。每顿饭的花费在20,000–40,000 VND左右。市场早上5点开门,到下午1点基本就空了。

    Thap Cham的橡胶园工人餐 比较难找,但绝对值得从Da Lat向南驱车45 km去品尝。在Thap Cham镇的主市场附近,工人们吃着简单的烤肉、糯米饭和一种叫做“canh chua”的汤(鱼或虾做的罗望子酸汤)。这里没有任何旅游设施。走进任何一家摆着塑料凳子的小餐馆,指着锅点菜就行。花费:25,000–50,000 VND。这个小镇以橡胶工业而非旅游业闻名,所以这里的物价非常亲民。

    继续向南的 Bao Loc 以草莓和茶叶闻名。这个小镇有着浓厚的“pho (쌀국수 / 越南河粉 / フォー)”文化——这里的粉店既供应牛肉汤也供应鸡肉汤,而且牛肉通常来自当地的高原牛。在Bao Loc的店里,一碗“pho”的价格为30,000–45,000 VND。比较好的店都在市场附近的主街(Tran Hung Dao)上。Bao Loc还出产“tra Bao Loc”(Bao Loc茶),这是一种乌龙茶风味的茶叶;你可以在镇上的市场找找看,或者在开车进镇时的公路茶摊上直接购买。

    街头美食与小吃

    在Lam Dong凉爽气候下生长的 玉米 比低地品种更甜,淀粉含量更低。Da Lat公交车站和市场入口附近的街头小贩出售烤玉米棒,价格为15,000–20,000 VND。在Xuan Huong Lake附近,会有妇女售卖煮玉米,切开后装在纸筒里,配上一小块黄油和盐,售价20,000 VND。

    市场和路边摊上都有新鲜的 草莓和牛油果 出售。在旺季(11月至次年2月),市场上的一公斤草莓售价为40,000–60,000 VND;而在主街上的游客商店里,价格则是三倍。建议在Cho Da Lat购买新鲜的草莓,并在当天吃完。

    Banh chung (반쯩 / 粽子 / バインチュン)(包着猪肉和绿豆的方形糯米粽)是越南各地春节的传统美食,但Lam Dong的版本使用的是当地猪肉。在1月底和2月初,你可以从市场摊位上买到热腾腾的粽子,或者一年中的任何时候,在Da Lat市场附近随处可见的“banh chung”小贩那里也能买到,每个25,000–40,000 VND。

    正宗越南香料砂锅鱼,展现Đông Dương烹饪传统。

    图片由Hồng Quang Official拍摄,来自Pexels

    咖啡文化

    虽然Da Lat的咖啡不如Dak Lak省的Central Highlands (중부 고원 / 中部高原 / 中部高原) 罗布斯塔咖啡出名,但这座城市有着深厚的“ca phe sua da”(炼乳冰咖啡)文化。清晨,坐在任何一个小小的路边摊前,点一杯“ca phe”(热黑咖啡)或“ca phe sua da”(加奶冰咖啡)——只需15,000–25,000 VND。热水从老式的滴漏壶中缓缓滴下,这是一个需要3–5分钟的悠闲过程。在这里,没有人会赶时间。当地人喜欢去的地方是邮局附近Tran Phu Street上那些没有名字的咖啡馆。

    避坑指南

    Thang Loi Street上以及Xuan Huong Lake游客环线周围的餐厅,同样一份“cha ca”要价200,000–400,000 VND,而在一个街区外你只需80,000 VND就能吃到。许多餐厅都有带照片的英文菜单,价格虚高。食物的味道并不差,只是价格翻了3–4倍。同样,包装好的“nem chua (넴쭈어 / 酸肉肠 / ネムチュア)”和游客商店里的草莓不仅平庸,而且价格昂贵。请务必去市场购买新鲜的。

    向酒店推销的美食之旅通常会带你去酒店或其合作伙伴拥有的餐厅。与你在小巷里随便走进一家店相比,你不仅要花更多的钱,吃到的东西也更差。

    传统越南春节大餐俯视图,包括bánh chưng和各种配菜。

    图片由Nguyen Truong Khang拍摄,来自Pexels

    消费预期

    在当地的“com tam (껌땀 / 碎米饭 / コムタム)”或“pho”摊位吃一顿饭:25,000–45,000 VND。 街头小吃(玉米、banh chung、nem chua):15,000–40,000 VND。 市场熟食(cha ca、banh canh):50,000–120,000 VND。 咖啡:15,000–25,000 VND。 Thang Loi Street上的餐厅用餐:150,000–300,000 VND。

    在Da Lat,你的钱包消耗会比在Saigon慢得多,而且如果跟着当地人吃,你会吃得更好。

    实用提示

    Da Lat较凉爽的气候(即使在正午也只有15–20°C)意味着街头食物保鲜的时间更长,但也意味着摊位关门的时间比低地城市要早。尽量安排在上午11点至下午1点,或下午5点至7点之间用餐,此时店里人头攒动,食物也最新鲜。请携带现金;大多数小摊不接受刷卡。向当地人问路寻找特定的摊位——他们比地图或点评软件更了解这里的美食版图。