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Saigon的Lau Mam:五家值得一试的巷弄美味 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

Saigon的Lau Mam:五家值得一试的巷弄美味

发酵鱼火锅(Lau Mam)是Saigon最具争议的料理。以下是五家深受湄公河三角洲当地人喜爱的店铺,它们大多隐藏在主干道之外。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Temple entrance illuminated by red lanterns for a festive celebration at night.
↑ Temple entrance illuminated by red lanterns for a festive celebration at night.Photo by Balazs Simon on Pexels
Tags
#lau mam#ho chi minh city#guide#food#hotpot#mekong#street food#hidden gems
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Ben Tre Coconut Cuisine: Every Dish Has Coconut

    发酵鱼火锅,即“Lau Mam”,绝不是一道让你能轻松接受的菜肴。它的汤底以“mam ca loc”(发酵黑鱼酱)为基础,经过长时间熬煮,直到那股强烈的气味转化为一种近乎甘甜的醇厚感。随火锅上桌的蔬菜拼盘大得夸张:空心菜、香蕉花、豆芽、睡莲茎、秋葵、茄子等等。鲜鱼、虾和五花肉放入锅中烹煮。这既是你在Saigon能吃到的最具湄公河风味的料理,也是最容易让初尝者落荒而逃的食物。

    如果你是在An Giang或Can Tho长大的,你一定知道自己想要什么。如果你不是,那你需要一个好的入门点。以下这五家店是当地常客的去处。

    Quan Lau Mam Ba Hoa — 第3郡

    Ba Hoa在Nguyen Van Troi街经营已有数十年,但真正的Lau Mam美味其实藏在她在Tran Quoc Thao街后巷的第二家小店里。从街上看不到招牌,留意人行道上堆放的便携式燃气灶即可。

    这里的汤底比大多数地方更咸、更浓郁——这是为从小吃到大的人准备的口味。双人份火锅价格约在180,000至220,000 VND之间,配菜量大到足以铺满整张桌子。每天营业时间为10:00至14:00,以及17:00至21:00。周末经常在打烊前就售罄。

    Lau Mam Co Ut — Binh Thanh区

    找到Nguyen Xien街,一直走到看到一排排塑料凳从一间没有招牌的底层公寓里溢出来,那就是了。Co Ut是掌勺人,她做这道菜已经有十五年了。

    这里的亮点是鲜鱼的选择:ca keo(弹涂鱼)、ca loc(黑鱼),有时根据季节还有ca linh。Mam汤底比较温和,更适合初学者,而且茄子是预先在侧炉烤过的,这是大多数店都会省略的步骤。双人份价格约在160,000至190,000 VND。营业时间为周二至周日16:00至21:30。

    越南街头场景,一位骑自行车的妇女和一位骑摩托车的妇女在当地餐馆前。

    照片由Felix Schickel拍摄于Pexels

    Quan 94 Hoang Dieu — 第4郡

    第4郡仍保留着一些旧Saigon的饮食文化,尚未被翻新浪潮所覆盖。位于Hoang Dieu 94号的店就是其中之一。Lau Mam只是菜单上的一道菜,菜单上还有许多南方经典菜肴,但这道菜是常客们不断回访的原因。

    其独特之处在于“bun”(米粉)——配菜的米粉是自家制作的,比普通的更粗一些。汤底更甜,更接近Ca Mau风格,表面漂浮着一层明显的猪油。双人份火锅价格固定为200,000 VND。每天11:00至21:00营业。

    Lau Mam Mien Tay — Go Vap区

    Go Vap区不是美食作家常去的地方,但这正是为什么这家店总是坐满了为了工作搬到Saigon的湄公河人的原因。这家店位于Nguyen Oanh街的一条住宅巷子里——问问那条路上的任何一位摩托车司机(xe om),他们都知道。

    这是最接近你在Chau Doc能吃到的版本。Mam的味道很浓。蔬菜拼盘里包括刺芫荽(rau ngo gai)和切片青香蕉,这是其他城市店铺常省略的配料。带壳的鲜虾直接放入汤中烹煮。三到四人份的套餐价格约为350,000至420,000 VND。15:00开门,卖完即止,通常20:30左右就关门了。

    美味的越南砂锅蜗牛火锅,配有新鲜香草和蘸酱,是海鲜爱好者的绝佳选择。

    照片由FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫拍摄于Pexels

    Tiem Lau Mam 37 Bui Vien — 第1郡

    把第1郡的地址列入名单感觉像是一种妥协,但这家店确实值得。它严格来说位于旅游区,但入口需要穿过一条狭窄的走廊到达后屋,大多数走在Bui Vien街上的人永远找不到这里。

    汤底是为大众口味调配的——发酵味没那么冲,加入了更多的椰奶来柔和口感。鲜黑鱼(ca loc)和鱿鱼是必点的蛋白质。对于需要尝试的人来说,这是一个很好的入门选择。不要指望能吃到Binh Thanh或Go Vap版本那种原始的冲击感。双人份火锅220,000 VND起。每天17:00至23:00营业。

    点餐前须知

    先点“rau”(蔬菜)拼盘,让服务员确认当季的蔬菜种类——蔬菜组合会随季节变化,这一点比你想象的更重要。火锅需要八到十分钟才能完全煮沸;不要着急。默认的主食是“bun”(米粉),但如果有的话,值得问问是否有“banh hoi”(细米粉片)。房间里的发酵味是正常的,事后你的衣服上也会沾上这种味道——请做好心理准备。

    Saigon有几十家Lau Mam店。大多数最好的店在Grab上搜不到,没有Google地图定位,也没有英文菜单。以上名单是一个起点,而非排名。