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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hoi-an

会安的 Mi Quang:如何从容点餐

Mi Quang 是广南省最具代表性的面食——姜黄色的面条,汤汁极少,配料丰富。这份指南将教你如何在会安自信地点上一碗地道的 Mi Quang。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Delicious, traditional Vietnamese pho soup with fresh herbs and toppings in a white bowl.
↑ Delicious, traditional Vietnamese pho soup with fresh herbs and toppings in a white bowl.Photo by RDNE Stock project on Pexels
Tags
#mi quang#hoi an#guide#food#noodles#quang nam#street food#breakfast
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    会安从不缺吸引游客的美食,但如果你在这里只能吃一碗面,那一定要选“mi Quang”——这种染着姜黄色、几乎没有汤汁的面食,是广南省的专属美味,在越南(Vietnam)其他地方很难找到类似的味道。

    对于初次尝试的游客来说,难题不在于寻找店铺,而在于坐下后,面对一张写着三种版本的塑封菜单,却不知道自己到底点了什么。这份指南就是为了解决这个问题而写的。

    你吃到的到底是什么

    Mi Quang 使用的是宽扁的米粉,用姜黄染成浅黄色。所谓的“汤汁”——用这个词其实有些勉强——更像是一勺浓缩且略带油润的烹饪底料浇在面上。它不是汤面,你不会得到满满一碗汤。这让许多期待像pho那样喝汤的人感到意外。

    面条上通常会有:半个煮鹌鹑蛋或鸡蛋、几只带壳虾、几片红烧肉、碎烤花生和炸红葱头。旁边会配上一块“banh trang”米饼——那种点缀着芝麻的大脆饼,你可以把它掰成小块,蘸着汤汁吃,或者直接捏碎撒在面上。此外,还会配上一盘生菜(香蕉花丝、生菜、薄荷、豆芽),吃之前要把它们撕碎放进碗里。

    这些香草和米饼绝非装饰,它们是这道菜的灵魂。没有它们的 Mi Quang 只能算半碗。

    菜单上的版本(以及该点哪一个)

    会安(Hoi An)的大多数 mi Quang 摊位提供两到三种版本:

    • Mi Quang tom thit —— 虾肉和猪肉。最经典的版本。第一次尝试,点这个准没错。
    • Mi Quang ga —— 鸡肉。口味较清淡,如果你不想吃太油腻的,选这个。
    • Mi Quang chay —— 素食版,通常配豆腐和蘑菇。味道尚可,但少了猪肉,汤汁的深度会大打折扣。

    如果你在菜单上看到 mi Quang 1A,那是对岘港 (Da Nang) Hai Phong 街 1A 号那家著名老店的致敬——一些会安的店家会借用这个名号作为品质保证。这虽然是营销手段,但这些店的味道通常都很扎实。

    在会安,每碗价格在 35,000 至 55,000 VND 之间,具体取决于你是坐在街边摊还是面向游客的餐厅。

    熙熙攘攘的街头美食市场,摊贩和顾客正在享用各式亚洲美食。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Quang Nguyen Vinh

    会安推荐去处

    Quan Mi Quang Ba Vi

    地址:15 Phan Chau Trinh。营业时间大约是早上 7 点到下午 1 点——请在上午 11 点前去,否则可能会卖光。这是一家家庭经营的小店,塑料凳、日光灯,完全没有网红店的氛围,但非常地道。一碗 tom thit 售价 40,000 VND。这里的花生比别处烤得更焦香,口感差异明显。

    Bale Well 区域摊位

    沿着 Tran Hung Dao 街及其周边,聚集着许多在早餐和午餐时段服务当地人的小摊。没有英文菜单,但你只需要记住两个词:“mi Quang”,然后伸出手指比划碗数即可。他们会搞定剩下的事。

    Mi Quang Phu Chiem(靠近茶桂村)

    如果你要去茶桂香草村(Tra Que herb village),距离古镇以北约 3 公里,Phu Chiem 市场附近的摊位从早上 6 点开始就为当地人供应 mi Quang。价格低至 30,000 VND。非常适合安排在早晨的骑行行程中。

    如何点餐和享用

    1. 坐下后,会有人过来询问——你可以说“cho toi mot mi Quang tom thit”(请给我一份虾肉猪肉 mi Quang),或者直接指着菜单说“mot”(一份)。
    2. 检查桌上是否有香草盘和米饼。如果没有,做一个掰东西的手势,他们就会拿来米饼。
    3. 把香草全部放进碗里。如果香蕉花丝太长,可以稍微撕碎一点。
    4. 把米饼掰成大块放在面上,或者拿一块米饼当勺子用。
    5. 吃之前用筷子把所有食材拌匀。如果不拌,面条会粘在一起。
    6. 如果喜欢吃辣,可以添加桌上的新鲜辣椒。这道菜本身并不辣。

    就是这样。只要你明白米饼和香草不是装饰品,你就不会吃错。

    美味的 Bo La Lot,配有新鲜黄瓜片和花生。越南美食爱好者的绝佳选择。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    它不是什么

    Mi Quang 不是 pho,也不是“顺化牛肉粉 (bun bo Hue)”(那是来自顺化、汤汁浓郁且辛辣的面食)。它也不是“高楼面 (cao lau)”——另一种会安特色面食,使用碱水处理的面条,汤汁更少。每一道菜都有其独特的地域逻辑——mi Quang 的逻辑在于口感和浓缩的精华,而不是汤汁的多少。

    如果你的面端上来时看起来几乎是干的,那是正常的。加入香草,掰碎米饼,趁米饼变软前快速享用。

    实用贴士

    会安的大多数 mi Quang 店都是“早餐到午餐”的经营模式;到了下午 2 点,很多店就卖光关门了。请准备零钱——50,000 VND 的纸币没问题,但面额再大在街头摊位找零会很麻烦。这道菜含有虾和猪肉,素食者点餐时请务必明确说出“chay”一词。