最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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Mi Quang 是广南省最具代表性的面食——姜黄色的面条,汤汁极少,配料丰富。这份指南将教你如何在会安自信地点上一碗地道的 Mi Quang。

最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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会安从不缺吸引游客的美食,但如果你在这里只能吃一碗面,那一定要选“mi Quang”——这种染着姜黄色、几乎没有汤汁的面食,是广南省的专属美味,在越南(Vietnam)其他地方很难找到类似的味道。
对于初次尝试的游客来说,难题不在于寻找店铺,而在于坐下后,面对一张写着三种版本的塑封菜单,却不知道自己到底点了什么。这份指南就是为了解决这个问题而写的。
Mi Quang 使用的是宽扁的米粉,用姜黄染成浅黄色。所谓的“汤汁”——用这个词其实有些勉强——更像是一勺浓缩且略带油润的烹饪底料浇在面上。它不是汤面,你不会得到满满一碗汤。这让许多期待像pho那样喝汤的人感到意外。
面条上通常会有:半个煮鹌鹑蛋或鸡蛋、几只带壳虾、几片红烧肉、碎烤花生和炸红葱头。旁边会配上一块“banh trang”米饼——那种点缀着芝麻的大脆饼,你可以把它掰成小块,蘸着汤汁吃,或者直接捏碎撒在面上。此外,还会配上一盘生菜(香蕉花丝、生菜、薄荷、豆芽),吃之前要把它们撕碎放进碗里。
这些香草和米饼绝非装饰,它们是这道菜的灵魂。没有它们的 Mi Quang 只能算半碗。
会安(Hoi An)的大多数 mi Quang 摊位提供两到三种版本:
如果你在菜单上看到 mi Quang 1A,那是对岘港 (Da Nang) Hai Phong 街 1A 号那家著名老店的致敬——一些会安的店家会借用这个名号作为品质保证。这虽然是营销手段,但这些店的味道通常都很扎实。
在会安,每碗价格在 35,000 至 55,000 VND 之间,具体取决于你是坐在街边摊还是面向游客的餐厅。

图片来源:Pexels 上的 Quang Nguyen Vinh
地址:15 Phan Chau Trinh。营业时间大约是早上 7 点到下午 1 点——请在上午 11 点前去,否则可能会卖光。这是一家家庭经营的小店,塑料凳、日光灯,完全没有网红店的氛围,但非常地道。一碗 tom thit 售价 40,000 VND。这里的花生比别处烤得更焦香,口感差异明显。
沿着 Tran Hung Dao 街及其周边,聚集着许多在早餐和午餐时段服务当地人的小摊。没有英文菜单,但你只需要记住两个词:“mi Quang”,然后伸出手指比划碗数即可。他们会搞定剩下的事。
如果你要去茶桂香草村(Tra Que herb village),距离古镇以北约 3 公里,Phu Chiem 市场附近的摊位从早上 6 点开始就为当地人供应 mi Quang。价格低至 30,000 VND。非常适合安排在早晨的骑行行程中。
就是这样。只要你明白米饼和香草不是装饰品,你就不会吃错。

图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫
Mi Quang 不是 pho,也不是“顺化牛肉粉 (bun bo Hue)”(那是来自顺化、汤汁浓郁且辛辣的面食)。它也不是“高楼面 (cao lau)”——另一种会安特色面食,使用碱水处理的面条,汤汁更少。每一道菜都有其独特的地域逻辑——mi Quang 的逻辑在于口感和浓缩的精华,而不是汤汁的多少。
如果你的面端上来时看起来几乎是干的,那是正常的。加入香草,掰碎米饼,趁米饼变软前快速享用。
会安的大多数 mi Quang 店都是“早餐到午餐”的经营模式;到了下午 2 点,很多店就卖光关门了。请准备零钱——50,000 VND 的纸币没问题,但面额再大在街头摊位找零会很麻烦。这道菜含有虾和猪肉,素食者点餐时请务必明确说出“chay”一词。