最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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Banh dap由两层米纸和一罐凤尾鱼发酵酱组成,几乎没有其他配料——以下是Hoi An当地人真正会去吃的地方。

最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
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“Banh dap”大致可以翻译为“拍拍饼”——你需要将酥脆的烤米纸压在下面湿润柔软的米纸上,用力拍在一起,撕下一块,然后蘸着“mam nem”吃。这是一种气味浓郁的凤尾鱼发酵蘸酱,也是这道菜的灵魂所在。听起来它像是一种零食,但吃起来却像是一种仪式。在Hoi An廊桥附近的游客区确实有卖,但那里端上桌的东西,与两公里外Cam Nam后巷或通往Cam Thanh河边小路上吃到的几乎完全不同。这份指南将带你寻找真正的地道摊位——包括店名、地址、营业时间和价格,并诚实地告诉你哪些地方应该避雷。
游客区Banh dap与当地版本之间的差距主要体现在三点:米纸本身、mam nem蘸酱以及配比。
在正宗的摊位,柔软的米纸是当天早上新鲜蒸制的——厚度适中,有嚼劲,带着淡淡的米香。上面的烤米纸较薄,是在炭火架上烤制而成,表面凹凸不平,而不是用煤气灶烤的。当你按压时,它会碎裂,而不是粉碎。Mam nem应该味道浓郁且鲜明,加入菠萝汁和香茅调和,使发酵的刺激感不会过于突兀。在大多数游客聚集点,mam nem是提前装瓶的成品,而烤米纸则是工厂压制的统一规格。那根本不是同一道菜。
一份完整的Banh dap——两到三对米纸配上一碗mam nem——在当地摊位的价格在15,000到25,000 VND之间。如果你没点其他东西却付了55,000 VND或更多,那你肯定去错地方了。
这是Hoi An(호이안 / 会安 / ホイアン)当地人提到Banh dap时最常推荐的名字。Ba Be经营着一家狭窄的店面,位于Cam Nam岛的主路上,该岛就在古镇An Hoi人行桥对面。这里的mam nem是自家酿制的,味道非常地道——菠萝味突出,带有一丝辣椒的刺激,质地稀薄,蘸起来恰到好处。如果你想吃到新鲜蒸制的软米纸,请在上午10点前到达;她家的早市供应通常很快就会卖光。地址: Duong Cam Nam(寻找手写的招牌,过桥后约300米处)。营业时间: 约7:00–11:30,周二休息。价格: 每份15,000–20,000 VND。
在Cam Chau市场附近的铁皮屋顶下有几张桌子,距离古镇东北方向约3公里,在通往Cam Thanh的路上。Co Liem奶奶已经七十多岁了,她在Hoi An大多数餐厅出现之前就开始做这道菜了。烤米纸是在前面的小炭火炉上现烤的——你可以亲眼看到它受热鼓起。份量比平均水平稍大,mam nem在端上来时会撒上一把烤花生,这改变了口感。地址: To 5, Cam Chau(向当地人询问“banh dap Co Liem”——这一带的人都知道)。营业时间: 约6:30–中午。价格: 18,000–22,000 VND。
位于An Bang海滩平行的小巷里,距离沙滩约1公里。Thanh在自家门廊经营,只做早市——四张塑料桌,一台旋转风扇,每张桌上放着一壶绿茶。这里的软米纸比大多数地方明显更厚,有点像薄的“banh cuon”,蘸酱时不容易破。Mam nem的味道偏温和,对初次尝试的人来说更容易接受。地址: Duong lac Long Quan, An Bang(寻找手绘的红色招牌)。营业时间: 7:00–10:30。价格: 统一15,000 VND。
在室内市场区域,从后面数第二排。摊位没有名字——由两位女性经营,她们下午还卖蒸玉米和“banh it”。在这里吃的好处是,你可以一边吃Banh dap,一边享用其他市场早餐,同时观察周围熙熙攘攘的市场生活。这里的mam nem是这份名单中最浓烈的——发酵味非常重,口感极强,肠胃敏感者慎选。烤米纸是用电烤盘而不是炭火做的,这是唯一的工艺妥协,尽管味道依然不错。营业时间: 6:00–10:00。价格: 12,000–15,000 VND。
古镇Tran Hung Dao街上有两三家店在门外的黑板上写着供应Banh dap。那里的米纸是预制并加热的。Mam nem是瓶装的。份量很小,价格却要50,000–70,000 VND。除非你实在无法过桥,否则这些地方都不值得去。这道菜在那里只是为了凑齐游客套餐菜单的一项,而不是什么值得骄傲的出品。

图片来源:Pexels上的Pew Nguyen
Banh dap是早餐和早午餐。到了中午,大多数当地摊位就会打扫收摊。如果你打算去吃Banh dap,请安排在上午11点之前——如果想吃到最新鲜的软米纸,最好在上午9:30之前。配上一杯附近小摊的“ca phe sua da”,这就是Hoi An最地道的35,000 VND早餐。

图片来源:Pexels上的Hiếu Vũ Vlog
所有推荐的摊位只收现金,大多数店主英语水平有限——用手指比划数量完全没问题。Cam Nam岛距离古镇的Nguyen Thi Minh Khai人行桥仅五分钟步行路程;去Cam Chau可以乘坐短途xe om(摩托车出租)或骑自行车。请准备小额钞票:20,000 VND的纸币最方便。