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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · ho-chi-minh-city

Saigon的Bo Ne早餐:滋滋作响的铁板仪式解读

滋滋作响的牛肉、流心蛋和鸡肝酱,盛放在铸铁锅中——Bo Ne是Saigon上班族的清晨仪式,绝对值得你早起一试。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Savor a classic Vietnamese Banh Mi with a refreshing beer in Hanoi, Vietnam.
↑ Savor a classic Vietnamese Banh Mi with a refreshing beer in Hanoi, Vietnam.Photo by Flo Dahm on Pexels
Tags
#bo ne#ho chi minh city#guide#food#breakfast#street food#district 3
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    当铸铁锅被端上桌时,里面还在发出滋滋的声响:一颗煎蛋在牛油中滑动,旁边抹着一团鸡肝酱和一片番茄。这就是“Bo Ne”——Saigon 版本的法式牛肉早餐。如果你还没试过在早上8点前坐在塑料小凳上吃上一份,那你确实错过了这座城市开启新一天的方式。

    什么是Bo Ne?

    这个名字拆解起来很简单:bo 是牛肉,ne 大致意为“躲避”或“灼烧”——指的是当滚烫的铁板端上来时,你不得不向后躲避的动作。这道菜的根源可以追溯到法国殖民时期的烹饪,这就是为什么当地人有时称其为 bo ne kieu Phap(法式煎牛肉)。但你在 Saigon 街头摊位上吃到的版本,早已演变成了一种独特的本地风味。

    标准的一份餐点在铁板上有三样核心:一片薄牛肉(通常用酱油、大蒜和少许糖腌制)、一到两颗在牛油中煎熟的鸡蛋,以及一大份鸡肝酱——口感顺滑,带点微甜,与罐头装的完全不同。旁边会配上一根斜切的法棍,用来蘸取锅里的汤汁。有些摊位还会加一块“笑牛”牌(Laughing Cow)奶酪,听起来很奇怪,但试过之后你会发现意外地搭。

    值得一提的是面包。Saigon 的法棍传统——即塑造了“Banh Mi”的那种传统——在这里也有体现,但节奏更慢、更从容。你不是在赶路,而是坐下来,等待滋滋声减弱,然后有条不紊地享用这顿铁板餐。

    谁在吃,何时吃?

    Bo Ne 几乎只是一顿早餐。摊位通常在早上5:30左右开张,大部分在10点前就卖光收摊了。食客多为上班族、摩托车出租车司机以及在这里吃了二十年的老居民。你很少会在面向游客的菜单或供应午餐的餐厅里看到它——它几乎只存在于上班前的那段短暂窗口期。

    上菜速度也是其魅力所在。坐下、点餐,铁板在五分钟内就会端上来。大多数摊位还会直接送上一杯 Ca phe sua da。在桌前的总时间:十五分钟。然后大家就去上班了。

    Ho Chi Minh City 繁忙街道上的烧烤摊位,行人穿梭。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tuan Vy

    在 Saigon 去哪吃?

    District 3 和 District 1 的边缘是 Bo Ne 摊位最密集的区域,不过你几乎可以在每个区找到它们。

    位于 District 3 Truong Quyen 街的 Bo Ne Truong Quyen 是品质最稳定的摊位之一,大约早上5:30开门,9点左右关门。一份单蛋铁板价格约为45,000–55,000 VND。加一颗蛋只需多付10,000 VND。这里的鸡肝酱是自制的,比附近其他摊位明显更浓郁。

    位于 Dinh Tien Hoang 的 Quan Bo Ne 62(同样在 District 3)吸引了一批从90年代末就开始光顾的忠实老顾客。这里的牛肉切得比一般地方厚,面包端上来时还是温热的。包含咖啡在内的一整套早餐价格约为50,000–60,000 VND。

    如果你住在 Pham Ngu Lao 附近的背包客区,可以在早上8点前寻找 Bui Vien 侧街上的那些小摊位——它们就在那里,只是当街道转变为夜生活模式后,它们就不那么显眼了。

    如何点餐

    在大多数摊位,菜单很简单,直接指着点就行。关键变量是鸡蛋的数量:mot trung(一颗蛋)或 hai trung(两颗蛋)。有些地方提供“dac biet”(特别版),会额外增加牛肉或香肠片。如果你喜欢蛋黄全熟而不是流心的,可以说 chin ——不过当地人通常更喜欢流心蛋,让它在铁板的余温中慢慢熟透。

    别急着吃。鸡肝酱需要一点时间受热,鸡蛋在端上来后也会继续烹饪。用面包刮净铁板边缘的焦香底料——那才是最精华的部分。

    美味的早餐组合,包括鸡蛋、面包、新鲜蔬菜和番茄酱。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Quang Nguyen Vinh

    价格

    Bo Ne 仍然是 Saigon 最实惠的坐式早餐之一。一套完整的餐点——包含牛肉、鸡蛋、鸡肝酱和面包的铁板——价格在 45,000–65,000 VND 之间,具体取决于摊位和地段。加一杯 Ca phe sua da 再多付 25,000–35,000 VND。总共不到 100,000 VND,你就能吃饱喝足,充满活力地开始一天。

    实用贴士

    如果你想获得完整的体验,请在早上8点前到达——许多摊位会先卖光鸡肝酱,然后是牛肉。大多数摊位只收现金,也没有英文菜单,但点餐过程非常简单,通常不需要语言沟通。摩托车停车位通常就在店门前;如果你是步行,在 Google Maps 上搜索“bo ne”加上你所在的区,500米内就能找到十几个选择。