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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all · hanoi

搭乘 SE3 卧铺列车,开启越南美食之旅

从 Hanoi 到 Saigon 的 1,726 公里铁道旅行,也是一场地道的区域美食巡礼——只要你知道在哪些车站下车,以及该点什么菜。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Delicious Vietnamese breakfast platter featuring eggs, sausage, and fresh vegetables on a wooden table.
↑ Delicious Vietnamese breakfast platter featuring eggs, sausage, and fresh vegetables on a wooden table.Photo by Pham Cuong on Pexels
Tags
#foodie itinerary#food#train travel#street food#regional cuisine
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Com Tam: A Complete Guide to Broken Rice, Its History, and How to Order It Right

    统一快车 (Reunification Express) 不仅仅连接了 Hanoi 和 Saigon,它还在约 33 小时的行程中穿越了五个各具特色的美食区。SE3 是这条线上最快的夕发朝至列车,19:30 从 Hanoi 出发,次日凌晨 04:00 左右抵达 Saigon。建议预订四人软卧包厢(根据季节不同,价格约在 800,000–1,100,000 VND 之间),随身携带小额现金,并将每一次停靠站都视为一次用餐机会。

    登车前 — Hanoi 站

    建议提早到达 Hang Bai 和 Ga Ha Noi 周边的街道。在傍晚出发前,先去 Hang Manh 的小店吃一碗“bun cha”——过了北纬 17 度线,你就很难再吃到如此地道的味道了。列车上虽然有餐车,但食物价格昂贵(50,000–80,000 VND 只能买到清淡的方便面),不推荐购买。建议在车站的便利店储备一些 bánh mì、水果和瓶装水。

    第一站 — Vinh(约 01:30)

    Vinh 站是深夜停靠点,位于 Hanoi 以南约六小时车程处。SE3 会在此停留约十分钟。无论几点,站台上总会有小贩——这就是越南——他们售卖用香蕉叶包裹的“cha”(一种 Nghe An 省特有的扎实猪肉香肠)、烤玉米和一小包糯米饭。每份价格在 10,000–20,000 VND 左右。记得定好闹钟,Vinh 的“cha”比 Hanoi 的口感更干、更有烟熏味,非常适合作为夜宵。

    第二站 — Hue(约 07:00–08:00)

    这是整条路线上最重要的美食站。SE3 在 Hue 站停留约 20 分钟,足够你下车从站台小贩那里买些东西再上车。寻找那些提着篮子的妇女,她们卖的是“banh loc”——一种半透明的木薯粉饺,内馅是虾和猪油,配上甜味鱼露,每个仅需 5,000–10,000 VND。如果你想吃点热乎的,还能买到泡沫杯装的“bun bo Hue”——这里的汤底有着 Hanoi 版本无法比拟的香茅和虾酱深度。

    如果你的行程允许更长的停留(许多旅行者会选择在 Hue (후에 / 顺化 / フエ) 中途下车停留两三天),这座城市绝对值得。受几个世纪以来宫廷烹饪的影响,这里的饮食文化可以说是全国最复杂的。

    一列红蓝相间的火车穿过城市区域的桥梁,背景是建筑物。

    图片来源:Edward Cao on Pexels

    第三站 — Da Nang(约 10:00–11:00)

    Da Nang 的停靠时间较长,有时可达 15–25 分钟。虽然车站本身不是这条线上最令人兴奋的美食点,但小贩会售卖打包好的“mi quang”——这是一种源自 Quang Nam 省的姜黄味黄面,配以猪肉、虾、花生和少量汤汁(按 pho 的标准来看,这几乎算是一种干拌面)。一份价格在 30,000–40,000 VND。如果中部越南的炎热让你感到不适,这里也有冷饮和新鲜水果。

    值得一提的是,如果你计划围绕这段火车行程安排更长的旅程,Da Nang (다낭 / 岘港 / ダナン) 是前往南边 30 公里处 Hoi An 的重要中转站。

    下午时段 — Ca Na 和 Thap Cham

    下午经过 Binh Thuan 省的路段,是沿线最壮观的海岸风光。在 Ca Na 和 Thap Cham 等小站会有短暂的停靠,小贩们会售卖烤鱿鱼干、Binh Phuoc 的腰果和当地种植的火龙果。鱿鱼干 (muc kho) 每袋 20,000–40,000 VND,搭配一些乘客自带的 bia hoi 罐装啤酒非常合适。虽然这只是零食而非正餐,但它完美契合了旅途的节奏。

    一名街头小贩在繁忙的夜市制作越南 banh mi。

    图片来源:Pragyan Bezbaruah on Pexels

    第四站 — Nha Trang(约 14:30–15:30)

    Nha Trang 站是抵达 Saigon 前最后一个像样的美食站。站台小贩多以海鲜为主——烤鱼串、塞满当地香草的鲜虾春卷 (“goi cuon”),以及 Nha Trang 的招牌美食“banh canh cha ca”(一种带有鱼饼的浓稠米粉汤)。站台小贩售卖的份量价格在 40,000–60,000 VND 之间。建议买两份——因为从 Nha Trang 到 Saigon 还需要五到六个小时,而餐车的水平并不会有所提升。

    如果你打算在 Nha Trang (냐짱 / 芽庄 / ニャチャン) 停留,这里的美食远不止车站这点东西。海滩边的海鲜餐厅价格虚高,但 Cho Dam 市场附近的后街“banh canh”摊位才是真正地道且价格仅为四分之一的美味。

    抵达 Saigon

    SE3 约在 04:00 抵达 Ga Sai Gon(位于 Tan Binh 区的 Saigon 站)。这个时间对大多数店铺来说太早了,但对于“hu tieu”——那种 Saigon 人赖以生存的南部猪肉米粉汤——来说正是时候,车站附近几个街区内就有 24 小时营业的小摊。在火车上颠簸 33 小时后,在这个时间点吃上一碗,仅需 40,000 VND,味道好得超乎你的想象。

    实用贴士

    请通过越南铁路官网 (dsvn.vn) 或在各大车站预订 SE3 车票——旺季(7月至8月、春节期间)的下铺软卧非常抢手。请准备 500,000 VND 的小额钞票专门用于站台消费;小贩们很少有零钱找补 200,000 VND 的大钞。车站停靠时间会根据货运情况有几分钟的波动,因此请留在车厢附近,并留意列车员的信号。