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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all · hanoi

烹饪课程之旅:Hanoi、Hoi An、Da Lat 和 Saigon

从 Hanoi 浓郁的北方汤底到 Saigon 堆满香草的南方风味,参加越南各地的烹饪课程是真正了解你所吃食物的最佳方式之一。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
A basket of organic garlic and shallots on display at a market stall, showcasing fresh produce.
↑ A basket of organic garlic and shallots on display at a market stall, showcasing fresh produce.Photo by Surya Travel on Pexels
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#foodie itinerary#food#cooking classes#street food#travel tips#regional cuisine
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    越南的饮食逻辑只有当你清晨 7 点站在菜市场,手里拿着一把 rau ram(越南香菜),并与摊主温和地争论它是否和 rau hung(罗勒)一样时,才会变得清晰起来。比起任何餐厅打卡,烹饪课程能让你更快地领悟这一点。这是一条横跨全国的松散路线——从 Hanoi 到 Hoi An,再到 Da Lat 和 Saigon——这些课程不仅是为了方便游客,更是因为它们确实物有所值。

    Hanoi — 北方烹饪的基本功

    Hanoi 的烹饪课程往往非常注重技巧,这反映了北方人对食物的看法:克制、精准,没有太多杂乱的新鲜香草。这座城市的饮食特色建立在清澈的汤底、考究的调味以及不需要辣椒来提味的菜肴之上。

    这里最好的课程通常从逛 Dong Xuan Market 开始,你将在前往厨房之前亲自挑选食材。准备好从零开始熬制 "pho" 的汤底——这需要时间,大多数课程都不会在这上面偷工减料——同时还会制作 "banh cuon",这是一种精致的蒸米卷,大多数游客路过时甚至都不会注意到它。半日课程的价格通常在每人 600,000–900,000 VND 之间。

    如果你想要更深入的体验,Hanoi 有几家机构提供晚间课程,将烹饪与“ca tru”(源于北方的古典诗歌演唱形式)的简短教学结合在一起。这是一个小众的组合,但它赋予了食物比单纯的厨房操作更多的文化内涵。

    课后,可以在老城区度过夜晚。在 Dinh Tien Hoang 的一家老店点一杯“蛋咖啡”,回味一下你刚刚亲手制作的美味。

    Hoi An — 全国烹饪课程之都

    Hoi An 每平方公里拥有的烹饪学校数量超过越南任何其他地方,虽然这听起来像是一个警告,但这种高度集中实际上提升了整体质量。那些水平较差的学校很快就会因为口碑不佳而被淘汰。

    大多数课程遵循相同的结构:乘船或骑自行车前往 Tra Que 蔬菜村,逛逛市场,然后在厨房里度过三到四个小时。Hoi An 的迷人之处在于其美食处于真正的地理十字路口——你将学习制作 "cao lau",这是一种 Hoi An 特有的厚小麦面条,其口感取决于当地某口水井的水质;还有 "banh xeo",这种滋滋作响的煎饼在这里比它的南方版本更薄、更酥脆。

    "Mi quang" 是大多数 Hoi An 课程菜单中的另一道主食——姜黄染色的面条配上猪肉、虾和一把烤花生。这是一种在当地之外很难吃到的越南中部菜肴,因此在这里学习非常值得。

    价格从基础半日课程的 700,000 VND 到包含当地渔村参观的全日课程的 1,500,000 VND 不等。Red Bridge Cooking School 和 Morning Glory 都拥有稳定的声誉,但由独立厨师开设的小型团体课程(四到六人)通常能提供更好的动手操作比例。

    一桌色彩丰富的越南菜肴,包括米饭、蔬菜和春卷。

    图片由 Quang Nguyen Vinh 在 Pexels 上提供

    Da Lat — 强调食材与被低估的美味

    大多数人并没有把 Da Lat 当作烹饪课程的目的地,但这正是它值得一去的原因。这座城市位于海拔 1,500 米处,供应越南很大一部分温带蔬菜——草莓、洋蓟、卷心菜以及在全国其他任何地方都无法大规模种植的温室香草。

    这里的课程不像 Hoi An 那样标准化。你更有可能进入当地人的家庭厨房,而不是专门建造的学校,菜单反映的是当季食材,而不是标准化的游客教学大纲。期待制作像配有当地蔬菜的 "banh canh" 这样的菜肴,并重点了解 Da Lat 凉爽的气候如何改变了你在南方已经接触过的食材的风味。

    一些机构提供“从农场到餐桌”的半日游,让你在烹饪前亲自采摘食材——在这里这绝非噱头,因为农场距离市中心确实只有几分钟的路程。预算约为 500,000–800,000 VND。Da Lat 在 "ca phe sua da"(炼乳冰咖啡)上也很有特色——包含咖啡环节的课程会带你了解当地的阿拉比卡咖啡豆生产,这与以罗布斯塔咖啡豆为主的南方有着完全不同的体验。

    一名街头小贩在繁忙的市场环境中用明火烹制多种越南煎饼。

    图片由 Quang Nguyen Vinh 在 Pexels 上提供

    Saigon — 街头美食逻辑与南方热力

    Saigon 的烹饪课程比北方更随意、更快速、更热闹,这非常符合当地风格。越南南方美食丰富且以香草为主——桌上总有一盘 rau song(新鲜香草),蘸料碗里总少不了鱼露。

    最棒的 Saigon 课程围绕定义这座城市的菜肴展开:"com tam"(碎米饭),这是全天任何时候都可以吃到的主食;"bun thang",这道源于 Hanoi 但在南方被采纳并改良的精致汤面;以及 "goi cuon"(鲜春卷),它看起来简单,但制作起来比想象中需要更多的精准度。

    在 Saigon 的市场参观通常会去 Ben Thanh Market 或第 3 区或第 5 区的湿货市场,那里的农产品更便宜,摊主也不太习惯接待旅游团。去 Ben Thanh 的课程往往花更多时间在应对游客定价上,而不是真正了解食材——建议询问你的课程经营者他们使用哪个市场。

    Saigon 的价格在 700,000–1,200,000 VND 之间。Pham Ngu Lao 地区的一些经营者几乎完全迎合背包客,主打快速和廉价;如果你想要深度体验,请寻找由真正的厨师而非旅行社主办的课程。

    实用提示

    在 Hoi An,请至少提前两天预订课程,特别是在 10 月到次年 3 月游客爆满的时候。Hanoi 和 Saigon 的名额相对充裕。带上笔记本——大多数课程节奏很快,否则你记不住配料比例。如果你有饮食限制,请在预订前通过电子邮件确认细节;“素食友好”在全国各地的不同经营者那里意味着不同的含义。