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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all · hanoi

越南茶道:一种值得放慢脚步去品味的传统

越南的茶文化安静而深邃——本文将带你了解真正的茶仪式是什么样的,斟茶与分享的礼仪,以及除了游客打卡点之外,去哪里能体验到地道的茶文化。

Nam Nguyen 撰写May 30, 20265 分钟阅读
A scenic view of Turtle Tower on Hoan Kiem Lake surrounded by lush greenery in Hanoi, Vietnam.
↑ A scenic view of Turtle Tower on Hoan Kiem Lake surrounded by lush greenery in Hanoi, Vietnam.Photo by Nguyen Ngoc Tien on Pexels
Tags
#tea#vietnamese tea#tra sen#lotus tea#tea ceremony#local culture#food culture#slow travel#traditions#beverages
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忘掉那些在塑料小板凳上匆忙喝下的ca phe sua da吧。越南有着一种更古老、更缓慢的饮茶传统——如果你愿意为它留出时间,它将改变你旅途中至少一个下午的度过方式。

越南茶文化究竟是什么

大多数游客首先接触到的是越南咖啡,并以为这就是越南饮品的全部。但“tra”(茶)几个世纪以来一直是越南日常生活的一部分,围绕它形成的仪式感,与其说是日本那种正式的茶道,不如说是一种根深蒂固的社交习惯。你分享茶的方式就像分享一顿饭一样:不慌不忙,全神贯注。

核心传统在北方被称为“tra dao”——一种热的、轻微发酵的绿茶,从陶土或陶瓷小茶壶中倒入拇指大小的杯子里,在矮桌旁传递。这是客人在Hanoi家中做客时会发生的事情。这也是Hue街边小桌旁的男人们早上7点在做的事情,看起来什么都没做,但其实这就是早晨的全部意义。

在南方,围绕Saigon和湄公河三角洲,茶往往更清淡,有时会用干菊花或茉莉花调味,用更高的玻璃杯盛装。节奏是一样的,意图也是一样的。

斟茶的礼仪

其中的门道很简单,不会让你感到尴尬,但了解这些会让体验更有意义。

总是由主人斟茶。不要自己去拿茶壶——等等看。杯子只倒七分满,千万不要倒满,因为满杯不仅难传递且容易洒出,还暗示主人不够用心。当主人双手递给你茶杯时,你也应双手接过,或者至少用右手接过,左手轻触右前臂。这是一个小小的敬意,对方会立刻感受到。

慢慢喝。不要像喝浓缩咖啡那样一口闷。小口啜饮,放下杯子,让谈话自然进行。当你的杯子快见底时,它可能会在你开口前被续满——这是体贴,而不是强迫。如果你不想喝了,在杯底留一点茶水即可。

新壶的第一泡有时会被倒掉——用来快速冲洗杯子——尤其是对于陈年茶或高档茶。不要认为这是浪费,这是在温杯并洗去灰尘。

越南河内还剑湖龟塔的风景,周围绿树成荫。

图片来源:Nguyen Ngoc Tien,来自Pexels

茶叶本身

越南的大部分茶叶种植在北部高地——太原省(Thai Nguyen)周围的梯田丘陵出产了许多人公认的全国最好的绿茶,这种被称为“tra Tan Cuong”的品种,冲泡得当时口感清爽,没有苦涩味。Ha Giang和安沛(Yen Bai)高地拥有古老的野生茶树,有些已有几百年历史,出产的小批量茶叶现在在Hanoi的专卖店售价为每100克200,000–800,000 VND。

“莲花茶”——tra sen——是Hanoi的招牌。新鲜的莲花雄蕊被包裹在莲花中过夜以吸收香气,然后取出并与绿茶混合。成品花香四溢而不刺鼻。一小罐不错的西湖(Tay Ho)莲花茶价格在150,000–400,000 VND之间。这比冰箱贴更适合作为纪念品。

在中部和南部,茉莉花茶(“tra lai”)更常见,也更实惠——在大多数传统茶馆,一壶茶只需20,000–40,000 VND。

去哪里寻找真正的体验

诚实的回答是:在别人家里。如果你住在当地人家里,受邀去同事家,或者与越南朋友同行,茶自然会出现。那是版本最地道的体验。

对于没有这种机会的游客,以下几个地方做得不错:

Hanoi

西湖(Tay Ho)西岸镇国寺(Tran Quoc Pagoda)周围的区域,隐藏在游客喧嚣背后的几家小茶馆,提供传统的北方绿茶,每壶15,000–25,000 VND。你会坐在矮木凳上,并可以多次续杯。Dong Xuan Market的后街也有类似的店——风景虽一般,但更真实。

文庙(Temple of Literature)周围的街道有几家“tra co dien”(传统茶)店,它们注重氛围但并不刻意表演。逛完文庙后,在那里坐上一小时非常值得。

Hue

Hue(顺化)对待茶仪式非常认真,这反映了其皇室历史。嗣德陵(Tomb of Tu Duc)和启定陵(Tomb of Khai Dinh)附近的几家店提供传统的“宫廷茶”套餐——包含三四种茶的精选品鉴,配有糖姜和芝麻米饼,每人约80,000–120,000 VND。有些是为旅游团准备的;找那些主人真的在和你一起喝茶的店。

Hoi An

Hoi An(会安)有很多面向游客的茶体验店——到处是香薰、坐垫和网红灯光。这并不是说它们一无是处,但要调整预期。一个更接地气的选择是:在上午晚些时候,当有组织的旅游团去别处时,去古城里的一家老商号,问问看管人他们正在喝什么茶。通常情况下,你会得到一杯茶和一段交谈。

Da Lat

Da Lat(大叻)靠近中部高地茶叶产区,在市中心15–20公里范围内有几个正在运营的茶园。Cau Dat Farm是游客最多的地方——这是有原因的。你可以走在茶垄间,然后坐下来品尝当地种植的乌龙茶和绿茶,价格约为50,000 VND。这既有教育意义,又不会显得过于商业化。

越南河内还剑湖龟塔的风景,周围绿树成荫。

图片来源:Nguyen Ngoc Tien,来自Pexels

游客版与真实版的区别

区别通常在于节奏和主人的专注度。游客茶仪式有剧本,最后还有礼品店。真正的茶仪式有沉默、有续杯,没有特定的议程。两者都可以很愉快——只要你知道自己走进的是哪一种。

如果菜单上写着“越南传统茶道——250,000 VND/人”,并且有一个TripAdvisor评论的二维码,那你就是在消费旅游产品。如果有人从架子上拿下一个破旧的陶壶,在你还在找位子坐下时就开始温杯,那你就在一个更好的地方。

实用小贴士

带上小面额现金——大多数传统茶馆不接受刷卡,也没有500,000 VND大钞的零钱。如果你想买茶叶作为纪念品,请从专门的茶叶店购买,而不是机场摊位;店员可以提供储存建议,而且库存周转更快。真空密封罐包装的绿茶在开封后可保持两到三个月的新鲜度。