Hon Son: The Rugged Southern Island Phu Quoc Used to Be

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The Anti-Phu Quoc

Phu Quoc was once a backpacker haven of dirt roads and empty sands, but today it is dominated by mega-resorts, cable cars, and replica European towns. If you want to experience what the Gulf of Thailand felt like two decades ago, you need to board a ferry in Rach Gia and head to Hon Son.

Also known as Lai Son, this pocket-sized island remains largely ignored by international travelers. It has no luxury resorts, no chain convenience stores, and very little English spoken. Instead, you get a single paved road looping around 11 square kilometers of dense jungle, granite peaks, and fishing coves where the catch of the day is sold straight off the wooden boats.

Getting to Hon Son

Hon Son lies in Kien Giang province, roughly 65 km off the coast of Rach Gia.

To get here from Saigon, take an overnight sleeper bus to Rach Gia (about 6 hours, costing roughly 220,000 to 280,000 VND). The buses drop you off at the Rach Gia bus station, from where you can take a short "xe om" (motorbike taxi) to the Rach Gia ferry port.

Two main ferry operators, Superdong and Phu Quoc Express, run daily speedboats to the island. The crossing takes 1.5 hours and costs about 170,000 VND one way. It is wise to book your ferry tickets a few days in advance, especially if you plan to travel on a weekend when local travelers from Saigon and the Mekong Delta (메콩 델타 / 湄公河三角洲 / メコンデルタ) head down.

Exploring the Island by Motorbike

The best way to experience Hon Son is on two wheels. You can rent a semi-automatic motorbike directly from your guesthouse at the pier for about 150,000 VND per day, helmet included.

The island has one main coastal road, about 16 km long, that rings the entire perimeter. Riding it takes less than an hour, but you will want to stop constantly. The western side of the island is rugged and uninhabited, where the road hugs steep cliffs that drop directly into the turquoise sea.

Photo by Jess Loiterton on Pexels

The Beaches: Bai Bang and Beyond

Unlike other islands in the region where prime beachfront is walled off by private developments, the coast here is entirely public.

• Bai Bang: This is the island's crown jewel. It is a crescent of soft, pale sand lined with slanting coconut trees that lean almost parallel to the water. There are a few wooden shacks selling fresh coconuts and renting out hammocks for 20,000 VND, but otherwise, the beach is empty during the heat of the day.
• Bai Bac: Located on the northern side, this beach is rockier but offers excellent spots to watch the sunset.
• Bai Nha: This is the main harbor area where you arrive. While not great for swimming due to boat traffic, it is the hub of island life and the best place to grab a morning "ca phe sua da" (iced coffee with condensed milk) while watching the fishing fleet prepare for the night.

Hiking Ma Thien Lanh Peak

For those willing to sweat, Hon Son offers one of the best hikes in southern Vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム). Ma Thien Lanh is the tallest of the island's seven peaks, rising 450 meters above sea level.

The trailhead starts near Bai Nha and is marked by a set of concrete stairs that climb past fruit orchards and small temples. As you go higher, the concrete gives way to a dirt path winding through dense jungle canopy and massive granite boulders.

The hike takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to reach the summit. The final stretch requires scrambling up a metal ladder onto a massive, flat rock known as "San Tien" (the Fairy Yard). From here, you get an unobstructed, 360-degree view of the entire island and the deep blue expanse of the Gulf of Thailand.

Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels

Seafood at the Pier

When the sun goes down, the action centers around the night market near the main pier. This is not a tourist trap; it is where locals gather to eat.

The setup is simple: walk up to the metal tubs filled with live seafood—squid, mantis shrimp, flower crabs, and various sea snails—negotiate a price by the kilogram, and tell the vendor how you want it cooked. Having a kilo of fresh squid grilled with chili and salt, along with a cold local beer, will rarely cost more than 250,000 VND.

For breakfast, look for small stalls serving "bun ca" (fish noodle soup) featuring fresh sailfish or mackerel cake in a light, savory broth for 35,000 VND.

Practical Notes

The best time to visit Hon Son is during the dry season from December to April, when the seas are calm and the water is clear. Avoid the monsoon months of July to September, as rough seas can cancel ferries for days at a time. There are no international ATMs on the island, so carry enough cash in VND to cover your entire stay.