Snakehead fish grilled over a bundle of burning rice straw sounds theatrical, and it is. The straw burns fast and hot, charring the skin while leaving the flesh inside moist and faintly smoky. In Can Tho, this dish — "ca loc nuong trui" — is weekend lunch food, the kind of meal that takes an hour to eat and involves everyone at the table.

What You're Actually Eating

A whole snakehead fish (ca loc) is impaled on a skewer, packed in a casing of lemongrass and dried straw, then set alight tableside or in the kitchen. The straw burns off in under two minutes. What's left is a fish with blackened outer skin that peels away to reveal white, firm flesh underneath.

You eat it wrapped in rice paper (banh trang) with a pile of fresh herbs — perilla, mint, fish mint, banana flower — plus thin slices of green mango and star fruit for acidity. A bowl of "nuoc cham" (fish sauce, lime, chili, sugar) sits in the middle of the table. The wrapping ratio matters: too much fish and it falls apart, too little and the herbs overpower it. Locals fold the paper once, tuck the ends, and eat it in two bites.

Fish size runs 400–700g per piece. Expect to order one fish per two adults, or two fish for a family of four with kids.

A dynamic aerial shot of boats congregating at Cái Răng Floating Market in Cần Thơ, Vietnam.

Photo by Duy Nguyen on Pexels

Where to Go in Can Tho

Quan Ca Loc Nuong Trui Ba Thanh

This is the spot most Can Tho (껀터 / 芹苴 / カントー) residents point to first. It sits on the outskirts near Cai Rang, about 6 km south of the city center along Nguyen Van Cu. The dining area is open-sided with long communal tables, and on weekends it fills up by 11 a.m.

  • Address: 215 Nguyen Van Cu, An Binh Ward, Ninh Kieu District
  • Hours: 10 a.m. – 9 p.m. daily
  • Price: 120,000–150,000 VND per fish depending on size; herb platters 30,000 VND; rice paper 15,000 VND

The herb selection here is notably good — they grow most of it in the back. Ask for extra ca cuong (water bug essence) in the nuoc cham if you want the traditional Mekong version, though not every table gets it automatically.

Nha Hang Song Que

More of a family restaurant than a street stall, Song Que has air-conditioned rooms alongside open riverside seating on Hung Vuong near the night market area. It's quieter than Ba Thanh on weekdays, which makes it easier with younger children.

  • Address: 34 Hung Vuong, Tan An Ward, Ninh Kieu District
  • Hours: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. daily
  • Price: 130,000–160,000 VND per fish; set meals for two from 280,000 VND including rice and soup

They also serve "lau mam" (fermented fish hotpot) and "bun rieu" if someone in the group isn't into whole fish — useful when eating with picky kids.

Quan Nuong Trui Muoi Loc (Cai Rang)

If you're already heading to the Cai Rang floating market in the morning, this place is worth the stop afterward. It's a low-key roadside operation, open-air, plastic furniture, no English menu. Locals from Cai Rang district eat here on weekday lunches.

  • Address: 88 Le Hong Phong, Hung Phu Ward, Cai Rang District
  • Hours: 10:30 a.m. – 2 p.m. only (closes when fish runs out)
  • Price: 100,000–120,000 VND per fish — the cheapest of the three

Arrive before noon on weekdays. By 1:30 p.m. the fish is usually gone.

Appetizing Vietnamese spring rolls served with dipping sauce on a white plate, perfect for a healthy meal.

Photo by FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels

Practical Notes for Families

All three spots are genuinely kid-friendly — no one will look twice at a four-year-old making a mess of rice paper wraps. Bring hand wipes. The grilling process sometimes happens at the table and produces a brief flare-up, so keep small children seated back from the edge.

Can Tho's heat peaks between noon and 2 p.m. The riverside seats at Song Que get a decent breeze; Ba Thanh's open shed gets stuffy on still days. If you're visiting in dry season (December–April), a fan table at Ba Thanh is fine. Rainy season (May–October), the covered interior matters.

Ca loc nuong trui pairs naturally with "bia hoi" for adults — most of these places sell local draft beer for 10,000–15,000 VND per glass. For kids, sugarcane juice (nuoc mia) is everywhere and usually pressed fresh to order.

Can Tho is large enough to justify two or three days on its own, especially if you build in the floating markets and a slow afternoon along the Ninh Kieu waterfront. This dish is one good reason to stay for lunch rather than rushing on.

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Last updated · May 26, 2026 · independently researched, never sponsored.