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Bai Bien Nha Mat:Ca Mau 海岸线旅行指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · south · ca-mau

Bai Bien Nha Mat:Ca Mau 海岸线旅行指南

Bai Bien Nha Mat 是 Ca Mau 主要的公共海滩——泥泞、微风拂面,且完全未经人工雕琢。以下是这片海滩的真实面貌,以及它为何值得你绕道前往。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 20, 20266 min read
Women in conical hats fishing in mangrove forest using bamboo traps.
↑ Women in conical hats fishing in mangrove forest using bamboo traps.Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Tags
#bai bien nha mat#ca mau#south#destinations#mekong delta#beach#seafood
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    Bai Bien Nha Mat 位于 Ca Mau 市中心东南约 10 km 处,这里是 Mekong Delta(메콩 델타 / 湄公河三角洲 / メコンデルタ)陆地的尽头,与大海交汇。它并不是那种明信片上的白沙滩——海水呈褐色,海岸线布满淤泥,整个场景感觉更像是一个作业海岸,而不是度假胜地。但这正是它的魅力所在。

    它的真实面貌

    Bai Bien Nha Mat 是 Ca Mau 省最容易抵达的公共海滩,在行政区划调整将其并入大 Ca Mau 之前,它在历史上曾是 Bac Lieu 省的一部分。“Nha Mat”(字面意思是“凉爽的房子”)这个名字可以追溯到法国殖民时期,当时官员们沿着这段海岸建造了休息室,以躲避三角洲的酷热。海滩沿着一条狭窄的海岸线延伸,红树林环绕的水道在这里汇入东海。

    不要期望这里会像 Phu Quoc 或 Mui Ne(무이네 / 美奈 / ムイネー)那样。这里的水很浅且浑浊——这是三角洲这一带的典型特征,河流将泥沙带入大海。相反,你将体验到最地道的本土风情:家庭在木麻黄树下烤海鲜,孩子们在浅滩戏水,还有一条长长的混凝土海滨步道,周末熙熙攘攘,而工作日则几乎空无一人。

    游客为何前往

    大多数前往 Ca Mau 的游客都是奔着 Dat Mui——Vietnam(베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)的最南端去的,而 Bai Bien Nha Mat 则是途中顺理成章的半日游停靠点。在 Mekong Delta 腹地,这是为数不多能让你真正站在海滩上眺望开阔水域的地方,而不是只能看到无尽的稻田和鱼塘。

    对于美食爱好者来说,真正的吸引力在于海鲜。Ca Mau 的海岸线盛产全国最便宜、最新鲜的虾、蟹和贝类。沿着海滩公路的餐厅直接供应刚从船上卸下的海鲜,价格明显低于你在 Saigon 甚至 Can Tho 所支付的费用。

    最佳游玩时间

    旱季(大约 11 月至次年 4 月)是最佳的游览窗口期。此时天空更晴朗,湿度略有下降,沿海公路的路况也更好。12 月至 2 月是黄金时段:气温较凉爽(以三角洲的标准来看,仍在 26-28°C 左右),且降雨极少。

    如果可能的话,尽量避开 6 月至 9 月。午后的大暴雨会让海滩区域变得泥泞不堪,海浪也会变得更加汹涌。无论哪个季节,工作日的早晨总是比周末更宁静。

    如何前往

    从最近的主要枢纽 Can Tho(껀터 / 芹苴 / カントー)出发,距离约 180 km,自驾或骑摩托车沿 1A 国道向南穿过 Soc Trang 和 Bac Lieu,大约需要 3.5-4 小时。从 Can Tho 到 Ca Mau 市的巴士班次频繁——Phuong Trang (FUTA) 和 Kumho Samco 都运营这条路线,半躺式座椅的车票价格约为 120,000-150,000 VND。

    从 Ca Mau 市中心出发,沿 32 号省道向东南方向骑摩托车 20 分钟即可到达 Bai Bien Nha Mat。乘坐 Grab 摩托车大约需要 40,000-60,000 VND。如果你在镇上租摩托车(标准价格为 100,000-150,000 VND/天),路面平坦且好骑——这是经典的三角洲骑行体验,全程没有山丘,道路两旁都是虾塘。

    从 Saigon(사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン)飞往 Ca Mau(Ca Mau 机场)的航班大约需要一小时,Vietnam Airlines 和 VASCO 每天都有航班。从机场到 Nha Mat 大约 8 km。

    在 Vietnam Can Tho 水上市场售卖椰子和饮料的船只。

    照片由 Pexels 上的 Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer 拍摄

    游玩项目

    漫步海滨步道

    沿着海滩延伸的混凝土步道是这里的主要景点。它全长约 2 km,两旁设有长椅,偶尔还能看到海鲜摊位。傍晚时分是最佳时间——光线变得柔和,暑气消散,当地人纷纷出来活动。这里是一个非常适合坐下来静静观察三角洲生活百态的好地方。

    在海滩餐厅品尝海鲜

    海滩公路旁聚集了一群露天餐厅。点一份啤酒蒸或椒盐烤的“ghe”(梭子蟹)——Ca Mau 螃蟹在整个南方都很有名,这里的价格大约在每公斤 200,000-350,000 VND,具体取决于大小和季节。水煮血蚶(“so huyet”)蘸青柠椒盐是另一种当地主食,通常一盘大约 60,000-80,000 VND。

    游览 Nha Mat 公园区域

    海滩后面的小公园里有一些纪念碑和绿树成荫的步道。它算不上壮观,但在酷热来临之前,这里非常适合晨间散步。周末,当地小贩会在这里摆摊售卖椰汁、烤玉米和“banh trang nuong”(加了鸡蛋和配料的烤米纸)。

    租船进入红树林

    海滩附近的小船可以带你进入海岸线两侧的红树林水道。45 分钟到 1 小时的行程通常包船费用为 150,000-250,000 VND(不是按人头收费)。你将看到虾场、捕鱼作业,以及构成 Ca Mau 标志性景观的茂密红树林。如果你有时间,这可以与前往 Mui Ca Mau 国家公园的较长一日游完美结合。

    体验当地咖啡文化

    Ca Mau 镇拥有出人意料的浓厚咖啡文化。从海滩回到镇上后,可以在 Tran Hung Dao 街沿线的当地咖啡馆点一杯“ca phe sua da”。它浓郁、香甜且劲道十足——这是标准的南方风味。一杯大约 15,000-25,000 VND。

    附近美食推荐

    除了海滩地带,Ca Mau 市还有非常地道的“hu tieu”——这种南方汤面与“pho”齐名,是三角洲地区人们首选的早餐。Ca Mau 的 hu tieu 通常配有猪肉、虾和清汤,汤底比 Saigon 版本的更清淡。早上可以在 Ly Bon 街沿线寻找面馆。一碗价格为 30,000-40,000 VND。

    如果想吃点口味更重的,可以找找“lau mam”——这是一种发酵鱼火锅,里面装满了蔬菜、鲶鱼、虾和茄子。这是 Mekong Delta 的特色菜,而 Ca Mau 做得尤为出色。一锅足够两人食用,价格大约在 200,000-300,000 VND。

    住宿推荐

    Ca Mau 市是你的大本营——海滩本身几乎没有任何住宿设施。市中心附近的经济型宾馆每晚价格为 200,000-350,000 VND。配备空调、热水和良好 Wi-Fi 的中档酒店价格为 400,000-700,000 VND。Muong Thanh 连锁酒店在 Ca Mau 有一家分店,是最可靠的选择,价格约为 600,000-900,000 VND。

    Booking.com 和 Agoda 上都有 Ca Mau 的酒店房源,不过与 Can Tho 或 Saigon 相比,选择相对有限。

    Vietnam 拥挤的室内海鲜市场,有当地摊贩和色彩缤纷的篮子。

    照片由 Pexels 上的 Đạt Nguyễn 拍摄

    当地人的实用建议

    • 带上防晒霜和帽子。海滩上几乎没有天然阴凉处,即使在雾霾天,三角洲的阳光也非常强烈。
    • 这片海滩更适合散步和吃美食,而不是游泳。当地人会在浅水区涉水,但海水并不清澈,水底也满是淤泥。
    • 携带现金。在市区酒店之外,基本无法使用信用卡支付。
    • 如果你打算将 Nha Mat 和 Dat Mui 结合起来游玩,请提前一天安排好交通。前往最南端的船票在节假日期间会被预订一空,尤其是在 Tet(春节)前后。
    • 黄昏时分,红树林附近的蚊子会增多。请带上驱蚊剂。

    避免常见误区

    不要期望能像在 Phu Quoc(푸꾸옥 / 富国岛 / フーコック)那样度过一个典型的海滩假日——你会失望的。来这里是为了感受氛围、品尝海鲜,以及体验站在 Vietnam 最南端的新奇感。不要为了自带干粮而错过海鲜餐厅;来这里的意义就在于品尝刚打捞上岸的鲜活海味。另外,不要尝试从 Saigon 出发进行一日游——Ca Mau 位于三角洲腹地,走马观花会失去旅行的意义。请至少在这个地区留出两晚的时间,才能好好体验。

    实用须知

    Bai Bien Nha Mat 最适合作为更广泛的 Mekong Delta 环线游的一部分——在 Can Tho 看水上市场,在 Soc Trang 看高棉佛塔,在 Ca Mau 看红树林和海岸线。它并不是一个值得你飞越大半个国家专程前往的目的地,但如果你已经身处南部腹地,这里将为你展现大多数游客从未见过的、最真实的三角洲生活缩影。