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🇨🇳 Destinations · all · ha-giang

路之尽头:越南五个最偏远的公社

从 Ha Giang 的山峰到 Ca Mau 的三角洲,这五个越南公社让铺装路面消失,带你走进真正偏远的国度。

Nam Nguyen 撰写May 30, 20264 分钟阅读
Beautiful mountain valley with greenery and a winding path under a clear blue sky.
↑ Beautiful mountain valley with greenery and a winding path under a clear blue sky.Photo by Ama Journey on Pexels
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#off the beaten path#remote vietnam#ha giang#cao bang#quang binh#dak nong#ca mau#adventure travel#motorbike#rural communes
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最后更新 · May 29, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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大多数前往越南的游客都遵循着一条固定的路线——从 Hanoi 南下至 Saigon,或许还会绕道去 Ha Long Bay 或 Hoi An。这条路线之所以热门自有其道理。但越南国土长达 1,650 公里,地貌极其丰富,一些最引人入胜的地方往往位于道路的尽头,前方已无路可走。

以下是五个公路终结、未知开始的偏远公社。

Lung Cu — Ha Giang

Lung Cu 公社位于 Ha Giang 省的最北端,坐落在多岩石的 Dong Van 岩溶高原上。从 Dong Van 镇出发,需要经过约 24 公里的盘山公路,沿途会经过 Lo Lo Chai 的石墙村落。你将穿过 H'Mong 和 Lo Lo 族家庭在高海拔地区耕作的梯田;如果是在 10 月或 11 月前往,荞麦花依然盛开,玉米地间的山坡上点缀着簇簇小白花。

公社本身非常稀疏:几家民宿、一个小型市场,以及矗立在玄武岩山丘上的 Lung Cu 旗台。大多数游客来到这里是为了打卡“国家之巅”,但只要住上一晚,Dong Van 镇的喧嚣便会彻底消失。民宿价格为每人 150,000–200,000 VND,包含晚餐。在旱季,这段路骑半自动摩托车尚可应付;但雨后,最后几公里的路面会变得湿滑,当地人对此心知肚明。

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Phia Oac — Cao Bang

在 Cao Bang 省的 Nguyen Binh 县,通往 Phia Oac 山峰及周边公社网络的道路蜿蜒进入云雾森林,几乎没有外国游客涉足。这是 Ba Be–Nguyen Binh 区域的深处,与已经发展成相对成熟生态旅游地的 Ba Be 湖截然不同。

Phia Oac 海拔 1,931 米,山坡上散布着 Dao 族和 Tay 族的村庄。进入公社核心区域的最后 15 公里路面未铺设,需要摩托车或四驱车才能通行。距离 Cao Bang 市约 80 公里。登山口有一家基础的国家公园招待所——请提前致电,因为并非总是有人值守。这是北部为数不多森林覆盖依然完整的地方,清晨时分,这里真正寒冷且宁静。

两位身着传统服饰的女性在宁静的红树林中用竹制陷阱捕鱼。

图片来源:Quang Nguyen Vinh,来自 Pexels

Thuong Hoa — Quang Binh

Quang Binh 省因 Phong Nha 及其洞穴系统而广为人知。但位于 Phong Nha 公园入口西北约 85 公里处 Minh Hoa 县的 Thuong Hoa 公社却鲜为人知。它靠近 Cha Lo 边境口岸走廊,坐落在 Ruc 和 Sach 族世代耕作的丘陵地带。

从 Dong Hoi 市出发,至少需要三个小时车程。住宿仅限于需要提前协调的社区民宿——Minh Hoa 县旅游局可以协助安排,但英语支持非常有限。这里的吸引力不在于地标,而在于质感:Ruc 族商贩售卖森林蜂蜜和干草药的市场、没有桥梁只能涉水而过的河流,以及一种与旅游经济毫无关联的生活节奏。

Dak Som — Dak Nong

与因凉爽气候和法式殖民建筑而吸引大批游客的邻居 Da Lat 相比,中部高原(Central Highlands)的 Dak Nong 省游客较少。位于 Dak G'Long 县的 Dak Som 公社坐落在 Ta Dung 国家公园边缘——这是一个以水库为中心、由淹没森林和玄武岩山丘构成的景观,直到 2018 年才被划定为国家公园。

从 Gia Nghia 镇出发的路程约 60 公里。从 Dak Som 进入公园内部需要乘船,当地渔民提供非正式的摆渡服务,价格根据距离在 50,000–100,000 VND 之间。公园内部有基础的过夜设施;公社本身也有几家招待所。这里的高原饮食与沿海不同:有“com lam”(竹筒饭)、路边摊的烤野猪肉,以及在水库上方山坡种植的浓郁滴漏咖啡。

越南 Gia Lai 森林中阳光明媚的林间小径,捕捉宁静的夏日氛围。

图片来源:Tường Chopper,来自 Pexels

Dat Mui — Ca Mau

Dat Mui 是越南最南端的公社——这是该国真正的陆地尽头,位于 Ca Mau 省的一个红树林半岛,泰国湾在此与东海交汇。从 Ca Mau 市前往这里,需要先走约 100 公里公路到达 Nam Can,然后乘坐快艇或缓慢的木制渡轮穿过红树林运河抵达 Dat Mui 码头。快艇需 45 分钟;慢船需两小时,但非常值得体验。

公社地势平坦,水网密布,建筑多建在桩脚和木栈道上。国家地标是海角上的纪念碑,但来到这里的理由是生态系统:Ca Mau 红树林是东南亚最大的红树林之一,而 Dat Mui 就坐落在其中。螃蟹、虾和“ca kho to”(焦糖炖鱼)是这里的招牌菜——食材均来自当天早晨的渔船。运河沿岸的民宿每晚收费 200,000–300,000 VND。这里没有 ATM 机,请务必从 Ca Mau 市带足现金。

实用贴士

这些公社都不在常规旅游线路中,这正是它们的意义所在。请为天气延误预留额外时间——北部的山路在暴雨后会关闭,而南部的航线在 9 月至 11 月期间受天气影响较大。对于 Ha Giang 和 Cao Bang,从 Hanoi 出发的北部环线是合理的起点;对于 Dat Mui,可以飞往 Ca Mau 或从 Saigon 乘坐过夜巴士。离线地图(Maps.me 或下载好的 Google Maps 离线区域)必不可少——一旦离开铺装路面,移动数据信号会迅速减弱。