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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all

Banh It:历史、种类与地道点餐指南

Banh it 是一种包裹着绿豆或猪肉馅的三角糯米团,作为越南最古老的祭祀食品之一,至今仍是全国各地人们的日常主食。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Close-up of hands preparing Banh Tet with rice and banana leaves.
↑ Close-up of hands preparing Banh Tet with rice and banana leaves.Photo by Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer on Pexels
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#banh it#deep dive#guide#food#sticky rice#hue#tet#street food#central vietnam#mekong
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    “Banh it”是那种大多数游客走过却视而不见的食物,这实在可惜,因为在它那小小的香蕉叶包裹下,蕴含的历史比许多两倍大小的菜肴还要深厚。这种糯米团小巧、扎实且极具饱腹感,它们出现在Tet(春节)的祖先祭坛上,每天早上7点出现在农贸市场,也会出现在Hue的路边摊,每个售价约5,000 VND。

    Banh It 究竟是什么

    这个名字拆解开来很简单:“banh”意为糕点或团子,“it”意为小。成品是一个手掌大小的三角锥体——有时是扁平的圆盘状——由糯米面团包裹在香蕉叶中蒸制而成。面团口感软糯,蒸熟后略带半透明感,并带有淡淡的香蕉叶清香。馅料因地区和场合而异,但最经典的两种版本是甜味的绿豆沙馅和咸味的猪肉木耳馅。

    它的口感介于日本麻薯和中国粽子之间——比前者更有嚼劲,比后者更扎实。如果你期待的是一种轻盈的口感,它可能会让你感到意外。吃两到三个 Banh it 就足以作为一顿正餐。

    简要历史

    Banh it 的起源与曾统治越南中部数世纪之久的占婆(Cham)文明有关,早于越南向南扩张的时期。美食历史学家将这种团子的形状——特别是其三角锥形——与占婆的祭祀供品联系在一起,在越南中南部沿海地区,拥有深厚占婆文化底蕴的社区中,依然能见到其变体。随着时间的推移,越南厨房吸收并改良了这种形式,融入了儒家祭祖仪式,使糯米制品成为了祭祀烹饪的主食。

    当 Hue(顺化)在阮朝时期成为帝国首都时,Banh it 已被改良为宫廷风格的食物。Hue 的版本——banh it tran,去掉了香蕉叶,直接盛在碗里,配上猪油渣和葱油——被许多越南中部厨师视为标杆。这一版本至今仍由 Hue 的家庭每天早上手工制作,售完即止,通常在上午9点前就会卖光。

    在 Tet(越南春节)期间,Banh it 与“banh chung”(粽子)一起摆放在全国各地的祖先祭坛上——两者都是糯米制品,都承载着象征意义,代表着通过辛勤劳动和精心制作而成的供品。

    在越南 Hue 的市场环境中拍摄的配有新鲜香草、辣椒和鱼露的越南面条。

    摄影:Pew Nguyen,来自 Pexels

    主要种类

    Banh It La Gai(黑糯米,甜味)

    视觉上最具辨识度的版本:面团使用 la gai(苎麻叶)染成深灰黑色,赋予其淡淡的草本苦味,正好中和了甜味绿豆馅的甜腻。这是甜味版本,通常作为零食或甜点食用。在平定省(Binh Dinh)非常普遍,几乎成了当地的象征。

    Banh It Tran(Hue,咸味,无叶)

    这是 Hue 对该品类的贡献。面团使用纯糯米,馅料为猪肉碎和虾米,整道菜盛在浅碗中,淋上炸红葱头和葱油。没有香蕉叶——“tran”意为赤裸的。这是 Hue 早餐文化中与“bun bo hue”(顺化牛肉粉)和粥并列出现的版本。点一份四块装的,价格约为 20,000–25,000 VND。

    Banh It Nhan Dua(椰子馅,南部)

    在湄公河三角洲及Saigon周边,Banh it 常使用椰丝和棕榈糖作为馅料,而非绿豆。面团中可能会加入椰奶以增加浓郁度。这个版本偏甜,更多作为零食而非正餐的一部分出售。

    Banh It Man(咸味,通用)

    在全国各地,这种含有猪肉、木耳,有时还有虾米的咸味版本被称为 banh it man(咸味 Banh it)。这是你在南北方大多数农贸市场摊位上都能找到的版本,通常在早上新鲜蒸制,成对出售。

    如何点餐

    在市场摊位,直接用手指指点点——先点两到三个即可。摊主会给你预先蒸好的,或者从蒸笼里拿热的给你。剥香蕉叶时要从底部向上剥。不要操之过急;如果撕扯方式不对,面团会粘在叶子上。在 Hue,如果你在坐下来的摊位点 banh it tran,如果它没有自动配上葱油,可以要求加一点“bot hanh”——通常应该配有的,但有时面向游客的摊位会省略。

    价格参考:农贸市场每个 5,000–8,000 VND。在 Hue 的坐式摊位,一盘 banh it tran 价格在 20,000–30,000 VND 之间。超市里有包装好的版本,但不值得购买。

    越南当地市场烤玉米和糕点的街头美食特写。

    摄影:Đăng Trần,来自 Pexels

    去哪里品尝经典版本

    Hang Thi Banh It Tran — Hue 位于Dong Ba Market附近的一家小型家庭摊位,经营已有数十年。早上6点左右开门,卖完即止。这里的 banh it tran 每天新鲜制作;猪肉馅调味克制,葱油给得非常大方。Dong Ba Market 本身也值得一逛——它是越南中部最适合一路吃吃逛逛的农贸市场之一。

    Cho Dam Market Stalls — Nha Trang Nha Trang 位于庆和省(Khanh Hoa),与平定省接壤,同样喜爱 banh it la gai。黑面团的甜味版本在 Cho Dam 市场的几个摊位有售,通常以五六个为一捆,用香蕉叶包裹。每捆约 10,000–15,000 VND。非常适合作为海滩活动间隙的上午点心。

    Ben Thanh Market Area — Saigon 在第一区 Ben Thanh 市场周围的街道上,每天早上都有密集的 Banh it 摊贩。在这里寻找椰子馅的南部版本。它比 Hue 的版本更甜、更浓郁,面团常因加入椰奶而略带黄色。虽然环境不算特别有氛围,但产品货真价实,且周转率高,保证了新鲜度。

    实用贴士

    Banh it 在各地几乎都是早餐食品——上午10点之后去,选择会大幅减少。甜味和咸味版本并不总是有英文标签;如果不确定,可以指着别人正在吃的东西点餐。如果你在 Tet 期间旅行,包装好的 Banh it 是不错的可食用纪念品——比大多数游客市场里的替代品要好得多。