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为什么 Da Nang 的 Banh Xeo 与南部版本截然不同 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · da-nang

为什么 Da Nang 的 Banh Xeo 与南部版本截然不同

Da Nang 的 Banh Xeo 个头更小、口感更酥脆,且需要用米纸包裹食用——这与大多数游客所熟知的盘子大小的 Saigon 版本有着完全不同的体验。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Close-up of delicious Vietnamese Banh Mi sandwiches with fresh vegetables on a table.
↑ Close-up of delicious Vietnamese Banh Mi sandwiches with fresh vegetables on a table.Photo by Phương Khánh on Pexels
Tags
#banh xeo da nang style#da nang#guide#food#street food#central vietnam#vietnamese crepes#hoang dieu street
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    如果你只在 Saigon 吃过 "banh xeo",或者在 Hoi An 的游客餐厅见过那种超大的酥脆煎饼,那么在 Da Nang 的 Hoang Dieu 街上供应的版本,将彻底颠覆你对这道菜的认知。

    Da Nang 式 Banh Xeo 的独特之处

    虽然名字的意思相同——即“滋滋作响的饼”,源于面糊接触热锅时发出的声音——但根据你在越南所处的地理位置,其制作方式大相径庭。

    在 Saigon,banh xeo 个头很大。一张煎饼可以铺满 30 厘米的平底锅,对折后包裹着五花肉、虾、豆芽和绿豆。你需要撕下碎片,用芥菜叶或生菜包裹,蘸上 nuoc cham(鱼露蘸水)食用。这本身就是一顿完整的主餐。

    而越南中部版本——也就是 Da Nang 及周边省份的做法——相比之下则是迷你的。这里的每一块 banh xeo 大约只有手掌大小,是在炭火上的小型铸铁锅中烹制的。面糊更薄,边缘呈现出蕾丝般的酥脆感,且整道菜的吃法也完全不同:你需要将整个迷你煎饼放在一张新鲜的米纸("banh trang")上,堆上各种香草——紫苏、薄荷、鱼腥草("rau diep ca")、香蕉花、杨桃片——卷起来,然后将整个卷蘸入一种浓稠的、发酵过的花生肝酱,称为 "nuoc leo"。那种酱汁才是真正的分水岭。它比南部使用的稀薄 nuoc cham 蘸水更浓郁、更复杂,风味也更独特。

    馅料本身更简单:小虾、少许猪肉、豆芽。重点不在于馅料,而在于极度酥脆的饼皮与柔软、香草味浓郁的米纸包裹之间的口感对比。

    Hoang Dieu 街:去哪里吃

    Da Nang 的 Hai Chau 区的 Hoang Dieu 街聚集了一批经营了数十年的 banh xeo 店。最值得一去的一段位于 Ong Ich Khiem 和 Tran Phu 的交叉路口之间,距离 Han River 大约 500 米。这并不是某一家著名的餐厅,而是一排外观几乎相同的临街店铺,每家都由一个家庭经营,使用同样的炭火和铸铁锅设备。

    生意最稳定火爆的是位于 Hoang Dieu 23 号的 Banh Xeo Ba Duong。它大约在上午 9:00 开门,下午早些时候就会卖光,周末有时下午 1:00 前就售罄了。不要计划晚餐去吃——这是一家午餐店。一份包含四到五块小煎饼、整套香草拼盘和蘸酱的套餐,每人花费 40,000–55,000 VND。再从外面的小推车买一杯 ca phe sua da,你总共花费不到 70,000 VND 就能享用一顿地道的美食。

    如果 Ba Duong 排队太长,隔壁两家的店(没有正式招牌,找那位同时操作四个炭火炉的蓝围裙女士)也同样出色,而且通常有座位。

    食用小贴士

    香草拼盘是自动配好的——千万别跳过。鱼腥草(那种带有一点药味的叶子)虽然评价两极分化,但却是传统吃法;至少试着在卷里包一次。香蕉花增加了脆感;杨桃增加了酸味,能够中和花生酱的浓腻。

    一定要趁热吃。Banh xeo 凉得很快。在盘子里放了三分钟的煎饼就已经开始失去酥脆感了;五分钟后就会变软。炭火烹饪意味着每一轮都是小批量出锅——送上来什么就吃什么,等下一轮,而不是让一整份订单晾在那里。

    越南 Da Nang 市场展现当地摊贩和新鲜肉类的热闹场景。

    摄影:Kirandeep Singh Walia,来自 Pexels

    与 Hue 和 Hoi An 的对比

    越南中部在 banh xeo 的传统上也有地域差异。Hue 的版本(有时被称为 "banh khoai")同样很小,但面糊比例略有不同,通常搭配虾酱基底的蘸酱,而不是 Da Nang 的花生肝酱。Hoi An 的 banh xeo 在许多餐厅中已经趋向于更大、更迎合游客的份量,尽管 Cam Nam 桥附近的老字号家庭店仍然在做着正宗的小份版本。

    Da Nang 在地理位置上处于中间,可以说在风味强度上也处于中间——比 Hue 的配料味道更柔和,比大多数 Hoi An 餐厅目前供应的版本更传统。

    盛在陶瓷盘中并配有蘸酱的美味越南春卷。

    摄影:Lucio Panerai,来自 Pexels

    总结

    Hoang Dieu 街值得专程前往,因为它不是作为旅游景点而存在的——那是 Da Nang 当地人吃午餐的地方。中午之前去,带上零钱,并且不要匆忙完成包裹香草的步骤。那才是这道菜的精髓所在。