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Ca Phe Muoi:越南盐咖啡及其背后的原理 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

Ca Phe Muoi:越南盐咖啡及其背后的原理

盐咖啡起源于Hue,最初是为了掩盖苦涩的罗布斯塔咖啡豆而生的实用之举。一撮盐、炼乳与冰块,造就了一杯独具地方特色的饮品。

By the Wayfarer teamApr 3, 20264 min read
A rustic coffee shop roof dripping with rain, vintage sign visible.
↑ A rustic coffee shop roof dripping with rain, vintage sign visible.Photo by Red Nguyen on Pexels
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#coffee#ca phe muoi#hue#drinks#vietnamese coffee#regional specialty#street food
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    起源:Hue的实用发明

    "Ca phe muoi"——盐咖啡——诞生于20世纪中叶越南中部,具体而言出自Hue。当地咖啡馆大量使用廉价低档罗布斯塔豆,这种豆子涩味重,直接饮用极为难喝。某位咖啡师的解法是:在咖啡粉中加入少许海盐再冲泡,利用化学原理降低苦涩感,使口味趋于柔和。炼乳与冰块随之加入,将一个掩盖缺陷的权宜之计,变成了人们真正喜爱的饮品。

    越南其他地方普遍选择加糖加奶的咖啡作为日常标配,而Hue却坚守盐咖啡。这一独特添加造就了当地独具一格的咖啡文化,也让Hue在Hanoi与Saigon之外,保有自己鲜明的地域身份。

    盐在咖啡中的作用原理

    只要用量得当,杯中并不会尝到咸味。盐的作用在于抑制舌头味觉受体对苦味的感知,使原本带有涩味和木质气息的罗布斯塔咖啡变得更加顺滑圆润。此外,盐还能增强对甜味的感知,进而放大炼乳在饮品中的甜润效果。

    Hue的咖啡师每杯用盐不超过四分之一茶匙。放多了则适得其反。盐在加冰之前已溶于热水与咖啡中,因此喝起来不会有任何颗粒感。这种处理极为微妙,许多初次品尝的人直到被告知,才意识到里面加了盐。

    在家自制

    只需四种原料:

    • 罗布斯塔咖啡(中粗研磨)。Hue咖啡师通常使用越南罗布斯塔豆,多为来自Da Lat或Da Nang供应商的拼配豆。用阿拉比卡豆也可以,但就偏离了盐咖啡的本意——盐本就是为了化解罗布斯塔的苦涩而生。
    • 盐(海盐或食盐,一撮即可)。
    • 炼乳(加糖炼乳,罐装)。
    • 热水与冰块。

    标准做法:将盐与咖啡粉一同放入传统金属"phin"滴滤壶。先注入少量热水,焖蒸咖啡粉约30秒。再加满热水,让咖啡缓缓滴入杯中。滴滤期间,在杯底加入2至3汤匙炼乳。待phin滴完(通常需3至4分钟),搅拌均匀,再放入冰块。待冰块略微融化、将饮品冷却至适饮温度后即可享用。

    没有phin的话,任何手冲滴滤器具均可替代。盐与咖啡粉一起放入,其余步骤完全相同。

    在温馨咖啡馆质朴桌面上摆放的冰咖啡杯与phin滴滤壶。

    照片由 🇻🇳🇻🇳Nguyễn Tiến Thịnh 🇻🇳🇻🇳 发布于 Pexels

    风味解析:与其他咖啡的比较

    "Ca phe muoi"介于两种越南咖啡传统之间。它比"ca phe den"(无糖黑咖啡)更甜,却不及"ca phe sua da"(加炼乳的越南冰咖啡,不含盐)那般浓郁甜腻。盐的加入削减了甜腻感——这杯咖啡有醇厚感与甜度,同时带着一丝微妙的咸鲜,使其不至于沦为一杯装在玻璃杯里的甜品。

    再对比一下"ca phe trung"(蛋咖啡),Hanoi的另一地方名物:两者都根植于匮乏年代的即兴创造,但蛋咖啡用打发的蛋黄与炼乳带来浓郁厚重感,而盐咖啡则化繁为简,靠的是化学原理。蛋咖啡喝起来像甜品,盐咖啡喝起来才像咖啡。

    在Hue哪里喝

    Hue老城区大多数小咖啡馆都将其作为常规供应,不需要特意寻访某家特定的店。

    阮志清街(Nguyen Chi Thanh Street)的咖啡馆是一排紧靠Dong Ba Market的老式殖民地风格店面,当地人坐在矮小塑料凳上喝咖啡。点"ca phe muoi",咖啡师一听就懂。一杯售价25,000至30,000越南盾。没有英文菜单,没有WiFi,纯粹的晨间仪式。

    Hue Coffee Tours有时会在城市咖啡漫游行程中纳入盐咖啡,但整体偏向旅游化。如果你入住民宿或酒店,工作人员可以指引你前往附近的街边咖啡馆。

    Gia Ngu Coffee位于朱文安街(Chu Van An),风格略为精致——木质装饰、本地糕点——但仍以传统方式制作盐咖啡。售价30,000至35,000越南盾。

    色彩缤纷的河畔小镇,棕榈葱郁,小船悠然,晴空湛蓝。

    照片由 NGUYỄN THÀNH NHƠN 发布于 Pexels

    在Hanoi和Saigon

    盐咖啡在Hue以外并不多见,但也并未绝迹。Hanoi有几家精品咖啡馆将其作为猎奇或地域特色项目提供(通常标注为"ca phe muoi Hue")。Saigon则更为罕见——当地咖啡文化更偏向冰"ca phe sua da"或第三波精品浓缩咖啡馆。

    若想在Hanoi或Saigon喝到盐咖啡,最佳选择是寻找由Hue人经营的咖啡馆,或参加专门介绍越南各地区咖啡风格的"咖啡游"项目。否则,不如回到它的发源地再喝。

    价格与实用信息

    在Hue,一杯盐咖啡售价25,000至40,000越南盾,具体视地点而定。老城区街边小馆价格偏低,城堡附近略为精致的店铺则稍高。比国际连锁店的精品浓缩饮品便宜,但比普通的"ca phe sua da"略贵。

    这杯咖啡最好慢慢品,留出20至30分钟,看着冰块缓缓融化,感受风味的变化。它不是用来一饮而尽的。

    实用建议

    如果你去Hue,盐咖啡值得花一个上午来体验。它并非噱头——味道确实出色,也折射出越南地方饮食逻辑的智慧:面对真实的问题(劣质咖啡),用出人意料的方法(盐)加以化解,最终成就了令人难忘的味道。把这个习惯带回家,而不仅仅是当作一段旅途记忆。