48 Hours in Cat Ba: Trekking and Island Escapes

Cat Ba Island transforms between seasons. Summer brings crowds to the main beaches; autumn and early winter bring cool air, empty trails, and a slower rhythm. This itinerary, drawn from a VnExpress reporter's visit and advice from Son, an official at Cat Ba National Park, suits active travelers departing from Hanoi or Hai Phong for a long weekend.

Day 1: Trekking to Viet Hai

Morning: Ferry and Breakfast

From Hanoi, Got Ferry Terminal takes about two hours to reach; from central Hai Phong, 30 minutes. Eat breakfast in Hai Phong—"banh da cua" (crab noodle soup) at a cafe in the city center or at a rest stop on the expressway. Hai Phong does crab noodle soup better than anywhere else in the north. The broth is rust-colored from crab roe, ladled over flat rice noodles with fried tofu, morning glory, and a squeeze of lime. A bowl runs 30,000–45,000 VND at most street stalls. If you are coming through the city early, look for shops along Hang Kenh or Le Loi streets that open by 6:00 AM.

During the off-peak season, the ferry crossing is fast. Tickets are cheap; you board immediately or wait under 30 minutes. From Cat Hai side: first ferry 5:30 AM, last 6:30 PM. From Cat Ba side (Cai Vieng terminal): 5:00 AM to 6:00 PM, every 30 minutes. A one-way ticket for a motorbike plus rider is around 80,000 VND; a car runs 250,000–350,000 VND depending on size. Passengers on foot pay roughly 12,000–15,000 VND. Keep your ticket stub—occasionally checked on the other side.

After landing, the drive to the island's center runs along one of Vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)'s most scenic island roads—a coastal route worth watching from the car window. The road hugs limestone cliffs on one side and drops off to the water on the other. It takes about 25–30 minutes from the ferry terminal to Cat Ba Town, or roughly 20 minutes to the national park entrance if you skip town entirely.

Midday: National Park Trek

Cat Ba National Park entrance fee is 80,000 VND per person (often bundled into all-inclusive tours). You can start around 8:30 or 9:00 AM.

Son recommends choosing a route by fitness level. The shortest is 2 km to Ngu Lam Peak and Trung Trang Cave—about two hours round trip. But skip that. The 10 km route is worth the effort.

The 10 km trek winds through primary tropical humid forest, mangrove sections, and mixed terrain—mostly flat or gentle uphill on rock faces, only a few steep pitches. You'll pass May Bau Peak and Ao Ech (Frog Pond), arriving at Viet Hai Village after four hours at a moderate pace. Wear non-slip shoes. Bring light snacks and water. The trail is marked but not manicured—expect uneven limestone, rooty sections, and the occasional scramble where you need both hands. In the wet months (September through November), leeches appear in the forest floor undergrowth, so tuck your pants into your socks. A local guide is not mandatory for the marked route, but hiring one through the park office costs around 300,000–500,000 VND and is worth it if you want to spot wildlife. Cat Ba is home to the Cat Ba langur, one of the rarest primates on earth—fewer than 80 remain. You probably will not see one, but your guide knows where to look.

Afternoon: Viet Hai Village

Viet Hai is a fishing village of about 400 residents, tucked deep in the national park. It has homestays, simple restaurants, and a few small shops. Late lunch features local seafood and vegetables—often pre-ordered, simple and fresh. Expect dishes like steamed clams, stir-fried morning glory, and whatever fish came in that morning, served family-style. A full meal for two usually costs 200,000–350,000 VND depending on what seafood is available. If you want crab or squid, mention it when you check in so the host can arrange it.

After eating, book a fish massage (50,000 VND per person per session) to ease your legs. Rent a bicycle (free if you're staying overnight; 50,000 VND if just visiting) and cycle around the village or walk to watch the sunset. The village hosts international tourists regularly; locals are used to Western guests. The cycling loop around the village takes about 30–40 minutes on flat paths through rice paddies and past limestone karsts. Near the pier, you can also walk along the mangrove boardwalk—short but quiet, and a good place to watch herons in the late afternoon.

Evening: BBQ and Sleep

Several homes offer BBQ dinner services. Enjoy a cool evening with grilled meat and wine. Long Phuong Bungalow is one of the larger guesthouses, with private rooms for 2–4 people: 500,000–700,000 VND per room. Budget homestays run 200,000–300,000 VND. Electricity in Viet Hai runs on generators and solar panels, so expect limited power windows—some guesthouses turn off electricity after 10:00 or 11:00 PM. Charge your phone during dinner. Cell signal is weak but present (Viettel works best). The quiet is the point: no karaoke bars, no traffic, just frogs and wind.

Image by Vyacheslav Argenberg via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

Day 2: Lan Ha Bay and Departure

Morning: Breakfast and Boat Trip

Wake to fresh air. A simple village breakfast—instant noodles or vermicelli with fresh seafood—costs 20,000–25,000 VND.

Head to the pier for a boat trip into Lan Ha Bay. The route passes Cai Beo Floating Village, Hon Rua (Turtle Islet), and Hon Mo (Tomb Islet). Stop 1–2 hours at Tay Keo Beach, a quiet stretch. In summer, tourists swim; in autumn and winter, kayaking is ideal. Boat hire from Viet Hai pier is usually arranged through your homestay host—expect to pay 800,000–1,200,000 VND for a small wooden boat that fits 4–6 people on a half-day loop. The price is per boat, not per person, so splitting it in a group makes it reasonable. Kayak rentals at Tay Keo Beach or nearby coves run about 100,000–150,000 VND per hour. The water in Lan Ha Bay is calmer than in Ha Long Bay next door, and the karst islands are just as dramatic but without the cruise ship traffic.

Afternoon: Lunch and Ferry Home

Floating restaurants no longer operate in Lan Ha Bay, so you return to Ben Beo Port around noon for lunch on the island. Try Hai Yen, Lau Nuong Huyen Beo, Vien Duong, or Lang Chai—seafood, beef, pork, various hotpots. A seafood lunch for two at these places ranges from 300,000–600,000 VND. The local specialty worth ordering is "sam bien" (horseshoe crab), prepared in salads or grilled—seasonal and not always available, so ask. Also try the squid "muc chien gion" (crispy fried squid), which is good at almost every restaurant near the port.

Before leaving, drive across Cat Ba to see the island's quieter side. Aim to reach Cai Vieng Ferry Terminal between 3:00 and 4:00 PM to catch your ferry back to the mainland. Don't cut it close to the last departure; ferries can fill up on weekends.

Image by Jakub Hałun via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

Getting to Cat Ba from Hanoi and Hai Phong

Most travelers reach Cat Ba from Hanoi. You have two main options.

Bus + ferry combo: Tourist buses leave from Hanoi's My Dinh or Luong Yen bus stations, or from the Old Quarter via tour operators. The trip takes roughly 3.5–4 hours including the ferry crossing. A one-way ticket runs 200,000–280,000 VND depending on the operator. Hoang Long and Phong Phat are the most established names.

Self-drive or private car to Hai Phong, then ferry: The Hanoi (하노이 / 河内 / ハノイ)–Hai Phong expressway covers about 120 km and takes under two hours. From Hai Phong's Got Ferry Terminal, ferries depart every 30 minutes. This option gives you freedom to stop in Hai Phong for "banh mi" and crab noodles, and means you have your own wheels on the island, which is a genuine advantage—Cat Ba's taxis are limited and pricey outside Cat Ba Town.

There is also a high-speed boat from Hai Phong's Binh wharf direct to Cat Ba Town (Ben Beo port), which skips the car ferry entirely. It takes about 50 minutes and costs roughly 250,000–350,000 VND. Useful if you are coming without a vehicle and want to get to the island fast. Departures are less frequent, typically two or three per day.

What to Pack for Cat Ba Trekking

Cat Ba's interior is different from the beach strip. The forest is humid, the trails are rocky, and the weather shifts quickly between October and January. Pack deliberately.

• Footwear: Proper hiking shoes or trail runners with grip. The limestone sections are slippery, especially after rain. Sandals are fine for the village but not the trail.
• Rain layer: A lightweight packable jacket. Autumn showers come fast and pass fast. No need for a heavy coat, but getting soaked four hours into a trek is miserable.
• Leech socks or long pants: If you trek between September and November, leeches are real. Long socks pulled over pant cuffs work. Locals use salt or tobacco oil.
• Headlamp: Viet Hai has limited electricity. A small headlamp is useful for nighttime bathroom trips and early-morning packing.
• Cash: Viet Hai has no ATMs. Cat Ba Town has a few, but they occasionally run dry on weekends. Bring enough VND for two days—1,500,000–2,000,000 VND per person covers food, accommodation, boat hire, and park fees comfortably.
• Water and snacks: Carry at least 2 liters of water for the 10 km trek. You can buy water in Viet Hai, but not on the trail.

Common Mistakes and What Surprises Foreigners

Treating Cat Ba like Ha Long Bay. Cat Ba and Lan Ha Bay share the same karst landscape as Ha Long Bay, but the experience is completely different. Ha Long is cruise ships and floating vendors. Cat Ba's interior is forest, farming, and quiet coves. If you show up expecting a party island, you will be confused. If you show up wanting to disappear into a national park for a day, it delivers.

Skipping the 10 km trek for the 2 km option. The short route to Ngu Lam Peak and Trung Trang Cave is fine if you have bad knees, but the view from May Bau Peak and the descent into Viet Hai is the reason to come here. The 2 km route drops you back at the parking lot. The 10 km route drops you into a village in the middle of nowhere. That is a fundamentally different trip.

Not booking the homestay in advance. Viet Hai has limited beds. During holiday weekends (September 2nd, Tet, April 30th), the village fills up. Message Long Phuong Bungalow or other guesthouses through Zalo or Facebook at least a few days ahead. Walk-ins work on quiet weekdays but are a gamble otherwise.

Assuming you can eat whenever you want in Viet Hai. Restaurants here are really family kitchens. Meals are prepared when guests arrive, and hosts need to know how many people are eating and roughly what time. Tell your host your meal plans when you check in. Showing up hungry at 8 PM without notice means instant noodles.

Underestimating the ferry schedule. The last ferry from Cai Vieng leaves at 6:00 PM. Miss it and you are stuck on Cat Ba for another night—not the worst fate, but inconvenient if you have a Monday morning flight out of Hanoi. Build in a one-hour buffer.

Forgetting that "ca phe" culture is different here. Cat Ba Town has a few decent coffee shops along the waterfront, but Viet Hai has none. If you need your morning drip coffee, bring instant packets or a portable pour-over. This is not Hanoi or Da Lat with a cafe on every corner.

Quick Reference

• Hanoi to Got Ferry Terminal: ~120 km, 2 hours by expressway
• Got Ferry Terminal to Cat Ba: 30-minute ferry, departures every 30 minutes (5:30 AM–6:30 PM)
• Ferry ticket (motorbike + rider): ~80,000 VND one way
• Cat Ba National Park entrance: 80,000 VND per person
• 10 km trek duration: 4 hours at moderate pace
• Viet Hai homestay: 200,000–700,000 VND per room per night
• Viet Hai meal (two people): 200,000–350,000 VND
• Fish massage in Viet Hai: 50,000 VND per session
• Boat hire in Lan Ha Bay: 800,000–1,200,000 VND per boat (half day)
• Kayak rental: 100,000–150,000 VND per hour
• Best months for trekking: October through January (cool, dry spells, fewer tourists)
• Cell coverage in Viet Hai: Viettel strongest; weak but functional
• ATMs: Cat Ba Town only; none in Viet Hai

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to reach Cat Ba Island from Hanoi?

From Hanoi, reaching Got Ferry Terminal takes about two hours by road. From central Hai Phong, the ferry terminal is only 30 minutes away. The ferry itself runs every 30 minutes from 5:00 AM to 6:00 PM from the Cat Ba side. Once on the island, Cat Ba Town is roughly 25-30 minutes from the ferry terminal, making the total journey from Hanoi approximately three hours door to door.

What does a full day of trekking in Cat Ba National Park cost?

The national park entrance fee is 80,000 VND per person, often bundled into tour packages. Hiring an official guide through the park office adds 300,000-500,000 VND and is recommended for wildlife spotting. A full meal for two in Viet Hai Village runs 200,000-350,000 VND depending on seafood availability. Optional extras include a fish massage at 50,000 VND per person and bicycle rental at 50,000 VND if you are not staying overnight.

When is the best time to trek Cat Ba to avoid crowds?

Autumn and early winter offer the best trekking conditions on Cat Ba: cool air, empty trails, and a quieter pace compared to the summer peak. However, the wet months of September through November bring leeches to the forest floor, so tuck your pants into your socks on the trail. Summer draws the largest crowds to the main beaches, making it the least ideal season for those seeking quieter trails and a more relaxed visit.

Practical Notes

This itinerary bypasses Cat Ba's main town and resort areas entirely. If you prefer hot springs and beach lounging, stay at Cat Co Beach instead—Perle d'Orient Cat Ba-MGallery or Flamingo Cat Ba both offer thermal pools. Alternatively, book an overnight cruise in Lan Ha Bay.

For travelers building a longer northern Vietnam loop, Cat Ba pairs well with a couple of days in Ninh Binh before or after—similar karst scenery but on land, with temples and rice paddies instead of ocean. And if you have a week, continue northeast to Ha Giang for mountain roads, or return to Hanoi for a day of eating "pho" and "bun cha" before catching a train to Hue or Da Nang.

Final Note

Cat Ba rewards the kind of traveler who does not mind a little discomfort for a lot of quiet. The 10 km trek is not technical, but it is real—you will sweat, your legs will ache, and you will eat dinner in a village with no streetlights. That is exactly the point. Go in the off-season, leave your resort expectations on the mainland, and let the island do what it does best: slow you down.