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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central

Che Dau Van:历史、变体及点餐指南

白豆、斑斓果冻和椰浆:Che Dau Van 是越南中部最令人心满意足的甜品,但大多数游客往往会与它擦肩而过。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
A mouth-watering bowl of Vietnamese beef noodle soup with fresh herbs and vegetables on a wooden table.
↑ A mouth-watering bowl of Vietnamese beef noodle soup with fresh herbs and vegetables on a wooden table.Photo by FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels
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#che dau van#deep dive#guide#food#vietnamese desserts#hue food#street food#central vietnam
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    "Che Dau Van" 属于那种看起来不够上镜、在 Instagram 上火不起来,也极少出现在游客必吃清单上的甜品。这实在可惜,因为它其实是越南甜品界中平衡感把握得最好的甜汤之一——质朴的白豆、清香的斑斓果冻,再淋上一层凉爽的椰浆,将一切完美融合。它也是了解越南中部甜品文化的一扇窗口,在那里,克制与层次感远比单纯的甜味更重要。

    究竟什么是 Che Dau Van

    "Che" 是越南语中对甜汤和甜品的统称,涵盖了从类似 "Bun Thang" 的咸甜汤底到椰香浓郁的甜品碗等多种品类。"Dau Van" 特指白芸豆,在西方市场有时被称为白腰豆(cannellini),但越南品种颗粒稍小,长时间烹煮后依然能保持完整形状。

    一碗标准的 Che Dau Van 由三部分组成。首先是豆子:经过一夜浸泡,加入冰糖慢火细炖,直到变得软糯而不烂,带有淡淡的甜味,口感粉糯。其次是 "La Dua"(斑斓)果冻:将新鲜或干燥的斑斓叶磨碎滤出绿色汁液,加入琼脂凝固成块,再切成小方块或菱形。这为整碗甜品提供了鲜明的色彩对比,并带来一种草本的、类似香草的清香。第三是 "Nuoc Cot Dua" ——浓稠的椰浆,通常会加一点点盐,有时会加热,在食用前淋在顶部。

    有些摊贩会加一勺 "Hat Long Nhan"(龙眼)糖浆或几条斑斓果冻丝。也有人坚持只用这三种原料。两种做法都各有拥趸。

    越南中部的特色,而非全国性甜品

    Che Dau Van 的根源最清晰地指向 Hue 及越南中部沿海省份。顺化的宫廷菜将甜品制作提升到了艺术的高度——小份量、复杂的层次感、视觉上的精准——而 Che Dau Van 正好符合这种美学。它不是一种张扬的甜品,而是经过精心调配的。

    随着家庭食谱和街头摊贩的流动,这款甜品向南传播到了 Da Nang 和 Hoi An。在 Saigon,你也能找到它,但它通常只是 Che 摊位上三十种选择中的一种,而且往往经过改良,加入了更多的糖,有时还会加入 "Thach"(彩色果冻块),这反而削弱了它的地域特色。中部地区的版本更为质朴,也因此更加纯粹。

    如果你正计划前往 Hue,请注意,这座城市对甜品的热爱在越南城市中屈指可数——Che 店铺从上午一直营业到深夜,根据地点和份量,一碗的价格在 15,000 到 25,000 VND 之间。

    印尼 Serabi 煎饼配椰浆的特写,突显了传统的亚洲甜品风味。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Anton Tezar

    值得一试的变体

    Che Dau Van Nuoc Dua Lanh — 冷食版本,加冰块。这是夏季的标准吃法,也是 Da Nang 和 Hoi An 大多数摊贩默认提供的版本。冰块会稍微稀释椰浆,有些人更喜欢这种口感。

    Che Dau Van Nong — 热食版本,不加冰。在 Hue 更为常见,特别是在一些服务当地老顾客的传统店铺里。斑斓果冻会变得稍微软糯,椰浆也更浓郁。即使你通常喜欢冷饮,也值得尝试一次。

    Che Dau Van Thap Cam — 混合版本,白豆与其它 Che 配料(如绿豆、黑眼豆、"Hat Sen" 莲子)共处一碗。这更像是 Saigon 的改良做法。虽然各种风味融合在一起,但对于初次尝试的人来说,这是一个不错的入门选择。

    Che Dau Van Banh Loc — 在 Hue 偶尔能见到,加入了小木薯球(与 "Banh" 类制作相关)以增加口感。木薯球的嚼劲与软糯的豆子形成对比。虽然比较小众,但如果看到的话值得一试。

    如何点餐

    在街头摊位或小店,你通常可以看到玻璃柜里分装好的配料。如果需要,直接指向白豆即可。以下是关键短语:

    • "Cho toi mot ly che dau van" — 请给我一杯 Che Dau Van。
    • "Co nuoc dua khong?" — 有椰浆吗?(一些平价摊贩可能不提供。)
    • "It duong" — 少糖。如果糖浆看起来颜色特别深,这句很有用。
    • "Nuoc cot dua nhieu" — 多加椰浆。这永远是一个合理的请求。

    份量通常很小——是一杯而不是一碗——设计上方便叠加食用。当地人经常会一次点两种不同的 Che。

    一位戴着口罩的女摊贩在繁忙的街头市场推着色彩斑斓的餐车。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tuan Vy

    在哪里品尝最地道的版本

    Quan Che Ba Duc — Hue。 这是一家位于 Nguyen Binh Khiem 街上没有招牌的店铺,已经经营了二十多年。这里的斑斓果冻切成整齐的菱形而非方块,椰浆也比大多数店更浓稠。营业时间从 14:00 左右开始,直到售罄。价格约为 20,000 VND。

    Che 63 Phan Chau Trinh — Da Nang。 这是一家靠近 Han 市场的 Che 专门店,同时供应冷热两个版本。冷食版本使用碎冰而非冰块,这样不会让甜品融化得太快。特别推荐尝试这里的 Che Dau Van Nuoc Dua Lanh。

    Quan Che Bui Thi Xuan — Hoi An。 位于古镇边缘,远离游客聚集区。店主使用当地采购的斑斓叶自制提取液,这使得果冻的颜色更鲜艳,风味也比某些店铺使用的粉末提取物更纯净。这是你在越南中部能找到的最好的版本之一。

    实用贴士

    Che Dau Van 默认几乎都是不含乳制品和麸质的——椰浆是唯一的脂肪来源,果冻也是基于琼脂制作的。如果你对坚果过敏,请单独确认椰子的成分。大多数越南中部的 Che 店铺在下午和傍晚营业;不要指望在早餐时间能买到。