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草莓、洋蓟与滋养越南的高原农场 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · da-lat

草莓、洋蓟与滋养越南的高原农场

Da Lat种植了越南大部分的草莓和几乎所有的洋蓟。了解这座城市如何成为高原农产品中心,以及去哪里采摘、品尝和购买这些特产。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Colorful Vietnamese meal featuring noodles, vegetables, and herbs, perfect for authentic culinary themes.
↑ Colorful Vietnamese meal featuring noodles, vegetables, and herbs, perfect for authentic culinary themes.Photo by Sóc Năng Động on Pexels
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#regional specialty#food#da lat#farms#produce#strawberry#artichoke#highland#agriculture#local market
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Da Lat 海拔约1500米,按照越南的标准,这里的气候足够凉爽,可以种植在低地无法存活的作物。正是因为这样的海拔,你才能在Saigon的超市里找到草莓,在Hanoi的咖啡馆里喝到洋蓟茶,而“rau Da Lat”(Da Lat蔬菜)在全国各地的菜单上更是品质的代名词。

    Da Lat如何成为越南的浆果之都

    法国人从字面上为这一切播下了种子。20世纪初,当殖民官员将Da Lat开发为山地避暑胜地时,他们带来了温带气候作物——草莓、洋蓟、花椰菜和胡萝卜。事实证明,凉爽的高原非常适合这些作物生长。在统一后,特别是通过20世纪80年代末的农业改革,Da Lat周边的小农场迅速扩张。Thai Phien、Van Thanh和Xuan Thanh村的家庭将山坡地改造成了塑料大棚,该市作为越南(베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)“菜篮子”的声誉由此确立。

    如今,Da Lat(달랏 / 大叻 / ダラット)及周边的Lam Dong省供应了越南约60%到70%的国产蔬菜。草莓是吸引游客的明星作物,但洋蓟(越南语称为“atiso”)在经济上的意义可能更为重大,它带动了全国范围内的干花和草药茶贸易。

    草莓农场

    大多数草莓采摘园位于Da Lat市中心到Cu Lan郊区之间的道路沿线(约8至12公里外),或通往Lang Biang山的方向。农场的模式很简单:支付入场费(通常每人30,000至50,000 VND),采摘自己的水果,并按重量支付带走的费用——通常每公斤约120,000至180,000 VND,具体取决于品种和季节。

    采摘高峰期从12月持续到次年4月。雨季期间农场依然开放,但浆果数量较少,且由于湿度大更容易发霉。这里种植最普遍的品种是经过本地改良的日本品种——比超市里的草莓小,口感相当酸,带有一种商业温室水果无法复制的香气。

    挑选建议

    并非所有农场都一样。靠近Xuan Huong湖旅游中心的一些农场在贫瘠的土地上使用同一个塑料大棚已经二十年了,产出的水果色泽苍白、水分过多,不值得门票钱。更好的农场在更远的地方,即通往Lac Duong的道路上超过10公里处。建议询问民宿工作人员或你的“xe om”(摩托车出租车)司机,而不是盲目跟随旅游巴士的指示牌。

    除了采摘模式,Nguyen Thi Minh Khai街的夜市从下午6点左右开始按篮出售新鲜草莓。这里的价格——每500克60,000至80,000 VND——比市中心附近的农场更公道,因为后者通常会向游客加价。

    花园中生长在茂密绿叶间的鲜洋蓟特写。

    图片来源:Thomas Parker,来自Pexels

    洋蓟种植业

    “atiso”农场虽然不像草莓园那样适合拍照,但如果你真正关心食物的种植和加工过程,它们会更有趣。这种植物本身就是欧洲菜肴中食用的球茎洋蓟——硕大、结构精巧,叶片带有紫色尖端。但在Da Lat,整株植物的收获方式有所不同。花蕾被运往Hanoi和Saigon(사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン)的餐厅,而叶子、根和茎则被干燥后作为“tra atiso”(洋蓟茶)的原料,这是Da Lat最具特色的出口产品之一。

    你可以在市中心以北4到7公里的Van Thanh和Xuan Tho地区找到洋蓟田。这些不是设有检票口的旅游农场,而是真正的农业用地。参观它们的最佳方式是租一辆摩托车,沿着Van Thanh村和Lang Biang高原之间的乡间小路骑行。田野广阔,从路上清晰可见,在生长旺季(大约10月到次年2月),多刺的叶子会让整个景观呈现出银绿色。

    购买干制atiso:Nguyen Thi Minh Khai的摊位和Cho Da Lat(Da Lat中央市场)的固定摊贩出售干花蕾和压缩茶块。500克装的干花蕾价格约为80,000至120,000 VND。用它们冲泡的茶略带苦味,回甘清甜,据说对肝脏健康有益(尽管未经临床证实)。越南人经常饮用这种茶,以至于全国的便利店都有瓶装成品出售。

    Da Lat夜市街头小吃摊的生动场景。

    图片来源:LUC PH@M,来自Pexels

    在镇上品尝农产品

    如果农业旅游不是你的菜,但你仍想了解Da Lat种植了什么,当地的餐厅是一个捷径。寻找菜单上标注的“rau muong xao toi”(蒜蓉炒空心菜)和当地田野种植的烤玉米,或者专门询问使用Da Lat农产品的菜肴。Truong Cong Dinh街上的一些中档餐厅——当地人有时称该地区为“小巴黎”——将整个菜单围绕高原蔬菜设计,搭配烤肉和“ruou can”(通过公共吸管饮用的米酒,这是当地K'Ho少数民族的传统)。

    如果想吃点更随意的,火车站附近的Quang Trung食品摊位出售填充了草莓果酱的“banh mi”,除了常见的肉酱口味外,这是一种Da Lat的新奇吃法,味道并没有听起来那么奇怪。

    实用贴士

    参观农场的最佳时间是12月至3月:气候凉爽,基本干燥,且是草莓和洋蓟的全面收获季节。在Da Lat租用摩托车每天费用约为100,000至150,000 VND,这是前往偏远农场最高效的方式。如果你购买了干制atiso或新鲜草莓带回家,请将它们放入托运行李中——航空公司工作人员有时会质疑随身行李中携带的大量农产品。