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Doi Che Gia Lai:中部高原茶丘旅行指南 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Destinations · central · gia-lai

Doi Che Gia Lai:中部高原茶丘旅行指南

Gia Lai 连绵起伏的茶丘提供了一个避开 Da Lat 拥挤人群的宁静去处——以下是关于如何游览、看点以及周边美食的指南。

By the Wayfarer teamMay 17, 20265 min read
Panorama of distant workers walking in green tea fields with trails while working in countryside during harvesting season in nature
↑ Panorama of distant workers walking in green tea fields with trails while working in countryside during harvesting season in naturePhoto by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
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#doi che gia lai#gia lai#central highlands#tea plantations#pleiku#destinations
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    简介

    Doi Che Gia Lai(Gia Lai 省的茶丘)指的是分布在 Pleiku 及其周边地区玄武岩红土高原上的一群茶园。与你在 Da Lat 或 Moc Chau 看到的那些修剪整齐的观光茶园不同,这里是真正运作中的农庄。成排的茶树像地毯一样铺满四面八方的低矮山丘,其间只有泥土小径、偶尔出现的遮阴树,以及戴着斗笠(“non la”)手工采茶的工人们点缀其中。

    这里的茶叶种植可以追溯到法国殖民时期,当时中部高原 (중부 고원 / 中部高原 / 中部高原) 的火山土壤和海拔(600–800m)使其成为种植咖啡和茶叶的理想之地。Bien Ho(T'Nung Lake)周围以及通往 Mang Yang 公路沿线的茶园几十年来一直在为国内市场生产绿茶。直到最近,来自 Da Nang 和 Saigon 的摄影师和周末游客才开始出现在这里。

    为什么值得一去

    老实说,有三个原因:

    1. 自然景观。 山丘起伏,呈现出清晰的几何线条——鲜绿色的茶树排与红色的土地形成鲜明对比,黎明时分雾气在山谷中弥漫。随手一拍就是大片。
    2. 宁静氛围。 Gia Lai 没有 Da Lat (달랏 / 大叻 / ダラット) 那样的旅游基础设施(或拥挤的人群)。如果在周二早上前往,你很可能是唯一的游客。
    3. 周边体验。 茶丘是更广泛的中部高原之旅的一部分,你还可以顺道游览 Kon Tum 的木制教堂、Jarai 和 Bahnar 村落社区,以及品尝 Pleiku 令人惊喜的美食。

    这里不是主题公园。没有售票亭,也没有礼品店。你可以在茶树之间漫步,如果你的越南语还不错,可以和工人们聊聊天,享受大多数外国游客从未见过的风景。

    最佳游览时间

    在雨季期间及雨季刚结束时——即 5月至10月,茶叶最为翠绿。山丘的色彩在6月至7月左右达到巅峰。早晨雾气缭绕,非常适合拍摄氛围感照片,但也意味着你需要准备一件轻便的雨衣。

    旱季(11月至次年3月)会让这里的色彩变得暗淡。土地干裂,泥土路上扬起灰尘,部分区域看起来有些稀疏。虽然依然值得一游,但拍照效果会打折扣。

    清晨——早上 7:30 之前——是光线最好的时候,工人们也已经开始采摘。到了中午,天气会变得炎热且光线平淡。

    越南 Gia Lai 湖面上迷人的日出倒影和绚丽的云彩。

    照片由 Ahmad Malulein 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    如何前往

    飞往 Pleiku(Gia Lai 机场)。 越南航空(Vietnam Airlines)和越竹航空(Bamboo Airways)每天都有从 Saigon(1h15)和 Hanoi(1h30)起飞的航班。从 Da Nang (다낭 / 岘港 / ダナン) 起飞的航班每周有几班。

    从 Pleiku 市中心出发,主要的茶丘区域有:

    • Bien Ho 茶丘:向北约 7 km,沿着通往 Bien Ho 湖的公路。骑摩托车需 15 分钟。
    • Bau Can 茶园:向东约 25 km,朝 Mang Yang 县方向。沿 QL19 公路行驶 40 分钟。
    • Chu Se 地区:向南约 45 km,散落着一些较小的农场。

    你需要自己准备交通工具——在 Pleiku 租一辆摩托车每天 120,000–150,000 VND,或者包一辆带司机的汽车进行半日游,价格约为 800,000–1,000,000 VND。

    没有直达茶丘的公共巴士。在 Pleiku 市内可以使用 Grab 出行,但司机不会在乡下的茶园等你一个小时。

    游玩项目

    在茶树间漫步

    最主要的活动就是简单地在茶园里漫步。大多数地方都不收门票——这里是农场,而不是景点。请保持尊重:走在茶树排之间的小径上,不要踩踏植物,近距离拍摄工人前请先征得同意。

    结合 Bien Ho 游览

    Bien Ho(T'Nung Lake)是位于茶丘正北方的一个火山口湖。湖水深邃,四周被森林环绕,在雾气中显得有些神秘。茶丘和湖泊自然地构成了一条半日游的环线。

    参观茶叶加工坊

    一些农场设有小型加工设施,茶叶在这里进行萎凋、揉捻和干燥。如果你会说基础的越南语(或者带了一位当地朋友),工人们通常会很乐意为你讲解。你可以直接购买新鲜的绿茶——普通等级的价格大约在每公斤 50,000–80,000 VND 之间。

    摄影

    无人机飞手:请查阅当地法规,并注意高原上靠近军事设施的一些区域是禁飞区。长焦镜头(70-200mm)能很好地压缩茶树排的画面。广角镜头可以拍出规模感,但会失去图案的层次。

    餐饮推荐

    Pleiku 有值得特意去寻找的地道美食:

    • Pho (쌀국수 / 越南河粉 / フォー) kho Gia Lai——当地的干拌河粉变体,旁边配有一碗高汤和一大把葱花。可以去位于 2 Nguyen Van Troi 的 Pho Kho Hong 尝尝(25,000 VND)。
    • Bun gio heo——猪脚汤粉,汤底浓郁且微甜。在 Pleiku 中心市场周围的小摊上很常见。
    • Com tam (껌땀 / 碎米饭 / コムタム) 随处可见,如果你在山丘上度过了一个上午后想吃点熟悉的食物,这是个不错的选择。
    • 至于越南咖啡 (베트남 커피 / 越南咖啡 / ベトナムコーヒー),Pleiku 盛产当地种植的罗布斯塔咖啡豆。市场附近的任何一家小咖啡馆都能为你冲泡一杯正宗的“ca phe sua da”(冰炼乳咖啡),价格在 15,000–20,000 VND 之间。

    越南风景如画的高原上,郁郁葱葱的茶园在雾蒙蒙的山丘上绵延。

    照片由 Duc Nguyen 拍摄,来自 Pexels

    住宿推荐

    Pleiku 不是一个旅游小镇,因此这里的住宿更偏向实用性而非情调:

    • Hoang Anh Gia Lai Hotel:镇上最好的选择,每晚约 600,000–900,000 VND。干净,位于市中心,带有游泳池。
    • Duc Long Gia Lai Hotel:中档酒店,400,000–550,000 VND。住一两晚是个不错的选择。
    • Nha nghi(宾馆):位于 Hung Vuong 和 Tran Phu 街沿线的经济型住宿,150,000–250,000 VND。设施简单但足够满足基本需求。

    茶丘本身没有民宿——你需要以 Pleiku 为大本营,进行一日游。

    常见误区

    • 中午前往。 光线刺眼,工人们在午休,而且天气非常炎热。请在早上 8 点前到达。
    • 期待完善的基础设施。 茶园里没有咖啡馆、洗手间或遮阳设施。请自带饮用水和防晒霜。
    • 只为 Gia Lai 安排了一天。 游览茶丘只需一个上午,但如果你加上 Kon Tum、Bahnar 社区和 Mang Yang 隘口,这个省份足够你玩上 2–3 天。
    • 错过当地美食。 单是 Pleiku 的 pho kho 就值得你飞来一趟。

    实用提示

    Gia Lai 是外国游客最少涉足的省份之一,而这正是它的魅力所在。茶丘不会占用你一整天的时间——可以将其与 Bien Ho 结合游览,并在 Pleiku 享用一顿悠闲的午餐。如果你正在规划更长的中部高原环线,Gia Lai 可以很自然地连接到北面 50 km 的 Kon Tum 或南面 200 km 的 Buon Ma Thuot。请携带现金——在 Pleiku 的酒店之外,刷卡支付并不靠谱。