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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

Hue街头美食:顺化皇城的日常滋味

顺化的皇家声誉掩盖了其街头美食的光芒,但这座城市那些火辣、发酵且平价的平民料理,才是你来到这里真正该品尝的美味。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Smiling man giving a thumbs up at a vibrant market stall in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.
↑ Smiling man giving a thumbs up at a vibrant market stall in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.Photo by Long Bà Mùi on Pexels
Tags
#regional specialty#food#hue#street food#bun bo hue#central vietnam#markets
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    Com Hen in Hue: How to Order Without Panic

    Hue 总是因其繁复的皇家宴席料理而备受瞩目,那种需要宫廷厨师耗时数日才能准备好的菜肴确实值得了解,但这并不是Hue当地人日常的饮食。清晨6点走进任何一个菜市场,你会发现一个完全不同的城市——这里的生活建立在酸味汤底、发酵虾酱以及每碗仅需25,000至40,000 VND的米食之上。

    Bun Bo Hue —— 灵魂汤底

    “Bun bo Hue”是定义这座城市最具代表性的菜肴,它与你在 Hanoi 或 Saigon 吃到的任何东西都截然不同。汤底以香茅为主调,因添加了胭脂树红和干辣椒而呈现深红色。它厚重浓郁——猪蹄和牛腱熬煮至黎明前的精华——同时又带有一种 pho 所没有的锐利感。面条圆而粗,比起南方的扁米粉,口感更接近乌冬面。

    大多数游客对其中的关键配料“mam ruoc”(发酵虾酱)感到迟疑,它通常被拌入汤中或作为佐料单独提供。千万别错过它,那种独特而浓郁的鲜味是汤底的灵魂,少了它,这碗汤就像没做完一样。

    想要品尝地道的一碗,可以前往Nguyen Du街的Bun Bo O Bep(约45,000 VND)。当地人通常在早上7点前就到了;到了9点,汤锅往往就见底了。

    Com Hen —— 小蛤蜊,大滋味

    “Com hen”是最让人惊喜的菜肴。这是一碗常温的米饭,上面铺着来自香江(Perfume River)的小河蚬、切碎的香蕉花、花生、芝麻脆饼和一把新鲜香草,最后淋上辣椒油和mam ruoc。听起来像是一份沙拉,但吃起来却是一顿完整的餐食。

    这些河蚬采自Hon Chen岛和Vy Da岛,个头不过指甲盖大小,但胜在鲜味十足。这道菜会附带一小杯蚬汤——在吃的时候啜饮几口,可以中和菜肴的浓郁感。

    Com hen是传统的早餐。如果你想尝试,请在早上10点前前往Truong Dinh街的Hanh Com Hen。一碗包含汤底的套餐价格约为30,000–35,000 VND。

    在平顺省户外供应的传统越南汤面特写。

    图片来源:Theodore Nguyen,来自Pexels

    Banh Nam 和 Banh Loc —— 别处吃不到的蒸饺

    Hue (후에 / 顺化 / フエ) 有一种扁平的蒸米浆饺子,因为难以长途运输,所以你必须在这里品尝。“Banh nam”是其中较宽、较扁的一种:用香蕉叶包裹着薄薄的米浆皮,内馅是虾和猪肉,蒸至凝固。口感介于丝滑与Q弹之间,蘸上nuoc cham(鱼露蘸水),三口就能吃完。

    “Banh loc”是它个头较小、口感更韧的“表亲”,由木薯淀粉制成,呈现出半透明的晶莹感。内馅通常是虾和猪油。这两种点心在大多数com hen摊位和专门的banh店都能买到,通常每盘六个,价格在20,000–25,000 VND左右。

    你可以在香江北岸的 Dong Ba Market 附近寻找它们,这是Hue主要的菜市场。市场大约清晨5点开门,banh摊位通常聚集在靠近河边的入口处。

    Banh Canh Nam Pho —— 大多数游客错过的美味

    Nam Pho是位于Hue市中心以西约8公里处的一个村庄,也是该市最棒的面食之一的发源地。“Banh canh”——由米粉和木薯粉制成的粗而有嚼劲的面条——浸在清淡的汤底中,配以虾和蟹肉丸。它比bun bo Hue (분보후에 / 顺化牛肉粉 / ブンボーフエ) 更温和,不需要添加发酵虾酱,如果你还在适应Hue的口味,这是一个很好的入门选择。

    你不需要特意去Nam Pho (쌀국수 / 越南河粉 / フォー) 也能吃到。Hue市中心的Nguyen Binh Khiem街沿线摊位就有很棒的版本,价格约为35,000–40,000 VND。

    在越南头顿繁忙的市场里,妇女们正在整理刚捕获的鱼。

    图片来源:Quang Vuong,来自Pexels

    美食指南 —— 一些小建议

    Dong Ba Market是寻找街头美食最方便的地标。二楼的美食广场从早晨一直营业到午后,几乎涵盖了Hue所有的经典菜肴——在Hue经常下的小雨天里,这里是个不错的避雨用餐地。

    如果想要更有氛围的坐下来用餐,下午5点后,Le Loi和Hung Vuong街区周围会摆满塑料凳摊位。在这里,你可以看到摊主们在烤“nem lui”(香茅猪肉串),并从桶里倒出“bia hoi (비아호이 / 鲜啤 / ビアホイ)”。在这里吃一顿丰盛的晚餐并喝上几杯啤酒,人均只需100,000–150,000 VND。

    Hue的食物确实比越南(베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)中部大多数地方更辣——当地人对此引以为傲。如果你想让厨师少放点辣,可以说“cay it”,但要知道,有些菜肴的精髓就在于那股辣味,少了它会失色不少。

    实用贴士

    Hue的大多数街头美食营业时间大致为早上6点到中午,下午4点到晚上9点——中间的午休时间是真实存在的。如果你上午要去参观嗣德陵(Tomb of Tu Duc)或启定陵(Tomb of Khai Dinh),请务必在出发前吃饱。探索美食的最佳时间是清晨或傍晚,那时摊位食材新鲜,整座城市也充满了活力。