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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central

Mi Quang:广南省最棒面食的历史、变体与点餐指南

Mi Quang 是广南省极具特色的姜黄面——汤汁极少,配料丰富,且总是引发食客们的激烈争论。在点餐前,你需要了解这些知识。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Delicious Asian noodle soup with vibrant garnishes captured in a close-up shot.
↑ Delicious Asian noodle soup with vibrant garnishes captured in a close-up shot.Photo by RDNE Stock project on Pexels
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#mi quang#deep dive#guide#food#quang nam#noodles#central vietnam#hoi an#da nang
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    广南省有充分的理由宣称他们拥有越南最有趣的面食。“Mi Quang”——用姜黄染成黄色的粗米粉,浸在少许浓缩汤汁中,上面铺满猪肉、虾、香草、烤花生和芝麻米饼——这并不是汤面。从传统意义上讲,它甚至算不上是一碗面,而是自成一派。

    Mi Quang 的独特之处

    大多数越南面食都以汤底见长。Pho 的精髓在于骨汤,Bun bo Hue 的灵魂在于香茅辣汤。而 Mi Quang (미꽝 / 广南面 / ミークアン) 则完全颠覆了这一点。它的汤汁被称为 nuoc nhan,仅作为一种浓郁的调味涂层存在,每碗大约只有三到四勺。汤汁中富含猪油、虾酱和胭脂树红油(不是姜黄,姜黄只用于给面条上色,而非汤汁)。面条是用来吸收汤汁的,而不是漂浮在汤里的。

    最终呈现出的这道菜,吃起来更像是一碗拌面,而不是汤面。如果你的碗里盛满了汤,要么是你吃到了改良后的游客版,要么就是店家在偷工减料。

    面条本身宽而平,由米浆手工切制而成——质地类似于 banh cuon,但更厚实。姜黄赋予了它们鲜艳的金黄色,不仅拍照好看,还有实际用途:几个世纪以来,姜黄在越南中部烹饪中一直被用作调味品和防腐剂,以应对沿海地区的炎热气候。

    简史

    根据广南省的记录,Mi Quang 的历史至少可以追溯到 17 世纪,当时该地区是阮主向南扩张的文化和商业中心。Hoi An(当时被称为 Faifo)是贸易港口,而广南省则是其粮仓。这道菜几乎可以肯定是源于会安福建商人社区带来的中国制面传统,并与越南中部偏好浓缩短汤而非北方清汤的口味相结合而成的。

    直到今天,它依然是广南省、Da Nang 和 Hue 大多数家庭平日早餐的首选。在 Hoi An (호이안 / 会安 / ホイアン),各家各户都会争论谁家祖母的食谱才是最正宗的。这种家庭间的差异并非偶然,这正是它的魅力所在。

    配料:厨师的个人印记

    广南省大多数地方的基础版配料包括:

    • Thit heo(切片的炖猪肩肉或五花肉)
    • Tom(新鲜虾,带壳,纵向切半)
    • Trung cut(鹌鹑蛋,可选,但很常见)
    • 花生(干烤,粗碎)
    • Banh trang(烤芝麻米饼,上桌后在碗里掰碎)
    • 香草:薄荷、紫苏、香蕉花、豆芽、葱

    高端版本或特殊场合的碗中还会加入:

    • Ech(青蛙,在广南农村很常见,味道鲜甜清爽)
    • Ca loc(黑鱼,炖制)
    • Ga(走地鸡,撕成丝,在 Da Nang (다낭 / 岘港 / ダナン) 版本中更受欢迎)
    • Thit vit(鸭肉,广南内陆的特色)

    对于当地人来说,米饼是必不可少的。你把它掰进碗里,它会吸收汤汁,稍微变软,并为香草增添一种焦香和烟熏的口感。吃 Mi Quang 不加米饼,就像吃 banh mi (반미 / 越式法包 / バインミー) 不加馅料一样。

    一碗配有脆皮配料的诱人亚洲面食,盛在花纹碗中,非常适合地道美食爱好者。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    地区变体

    岘港风格 (Da Nang Style)

    岘港版本的汤汁往往稍微多一点——广南当地人会直言不讳地告诉你,这是为了迎合城市食客想要喝汤的需求。虾个头更大(岘港位于沿海),猪肉有时会被猪排骨取代,胭脂树红油的使用也更豪放,使整碗面呈现出更深的橙色。

    会安风格 (Hoi An Style)

    在会安,靠近旅游区的摊贩会提供额外的一小碗汤汁,让食客根据口味自行添加。在市场和后街的小店里,它依然以传统的“干拌”风格供应。会安版本通常会加入 ca bong lau(鲶鱼)作为配料,以呼应贯穿该省的秋盆河 (Thu Bon river)。

    广南内陆风格 (Inland Quang Nam)

    在三岐市 (Tam Ky) 以西和桂山县 (Que Son) 周围的山脚下,Mi Quang 变得更加质朴——青蛙和黑鱼是主角,汤汁颜色更深,虾酱味更浓,香草盘里还包括沿海菜单上找不到的野生蔬菜。

    如何点餐

    在任何专门的 Mi Quang 店里,菜单通常都很简单。以下是点餐指南:

    • "Mi Quang ga" — 鸡肉版(口味较清淡,适合初次尝试者)
    • "Mi Quang tom thit" — 虾肉版(经典版本)
    • "Mi Quang ech" — 青蛙版(如果店里有,值得一试)
    • "Cho them nuoc nhan" — 要求加汤(没人会评判你,但老板可能会多看你一眼)
    • "Them banh trang" — 加米饼

    香草是另外装盘的。把所有东西加进去,用筷子拌匀,趁热快吃。Mi Quang 的口感会随着面条吸收汤汁和米饼从酥脆变软而迅速下降。这是一道需要趁热享用的美食。

    价格范围:每碗 35,000–70,000 VND,具体取决于配料和城市。

    一碗配有脆皮配料的诱人亚洲面食,盛在花纹碗中,非常适合地道美食爱好者。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    哪里可以尝到

    Ba Mua (岘港) — 19 Tran Binh Trong,早上 6 点开门。一家可靠、朴实无华的店,供应带有大虾和适量汤汁的岘港风格 Mi Quang。周末早上 7 点就会排起长队。

    Quan Mi Quang 1A (会安) — 1A Phan Chu Trinh,位于古镇内。这是公认的最正宗的会安风格店之一。香草新鲜,米饼烤得恰到好处,汤汁与面条的比例非常地道。

    Quan Tra Que (广南省,靠近会安) — 位于通往茶桂蔬菜村 (Tra Que vegetable village) 的路上。一家家庭经营的小店,香草直接从隔壁菜园采摘。这里的面配上鲶鱼和时令蔬菜,是你无需深入内陆就能吃到的最接近“从农场到餐桌”的 Mi Quang。

    实用贴士

    Mi Quang 是一道早餐和午餐菜肴——大多数专门店在下午 1 点或卖完即关门。如果你在会安用餐,请避开日本廊桥附近的游客餐厅,前往中央市场或白藤街 (Bach Dang) 以北的居民区。岘港每平方公里内优质店铺的密度最高,是单次旅行中尝试多种版本最方便的城市。