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  3. 来自Hue的盐咖啡:为何这款咸甜风味的饮品如此独特
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

来自Hue的盐咖啡:为何这款咸甜风味的饮品如此独特

Hue的“ca phe muoi”(盐咖啡)听起来像是个噱头,但其背后有着严谨的烹饪逻辑。以下是它的起源以及品尝建议。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Refreshing glass of Vietnamese iced coffee with a mini flag on a table.
↑ Refreshing glass of Vietnamese iced coffee with a mini flag on a table.Photo by 🇻🇳🇻🇳Nguyễn Tiến Thịnh 🇻🇳🇻🇳 on Pexels
Tags
#drinks#food#hue#coffee#ca phe muoi#street food#regional cuisine
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Hue 以其独特的行事风格而闻名——这里的食物更加复杂,分量更小,风味也更鲜明。“Ca phe muoi”,即该市的盐咖啡,完全符合这一特质:这是一款看起来简单,但背后却蕴含着令人惊叹的巧思的饮品。

    什么是真正的 Ca Phe Muoi

    这款饮品并不是在咖啡里随手撒上一撮盐。一杯地道的Hue盐咖啡(후에 / 顺化 / フエ)是分层制作的。基底是浓郁的越南滴漏咖啡——几乎总是使用罗布斯塔咖啡豆——通过“phin”过滤器缓慢萃取而成。在其上方覆盖着一层咸奶油,通常由炼乳或鲜奶油混合少量海盐制成,经过搅拌或打发直至略微浓稠。大多数版本是冷饮,不过也有热饮可选。咸奶油浮在表面,当你啜饮时,首先感受到的是凉爽与咸鲜,随后才是底部的苦味咖啡。

    这听起来像是为Instagram发明的潮流,但其实不然。

    它的起源

    大多数Hue当地人会告诉你,这款饮品起源于Dinh Tien Hoang街上一家名为Cafe Muoi的小店,大约在2010年代初开发。店主——关于具体时间说法不一——当时正在尝试寻找一种方法来柔和罗布斯塔咖啡的苦涩感,同时又不想在杯中加入过多的糖。盐成了解决方案,而且并非随意的选择。

    其背后的科学原理很简单:钠离子能抑制舌头上的苦味受体。少量的盐并不会让咖啡尝起来有咸味,而是让它苦味降低,从而使炼乳的天然甜味和咖啡的烘焙香气更加纯粹地呈现出来。精品咖啡界的咖啡师们多年来一直深谙此道。Cafe Muoi的做法只是将其工业化,变成了一种区域性的街头饮品,每杯价格约为25,000–35,000 VND。

    这款饮品在Hue迅速传播,随后随着美食媒体的报道进入了Hanoi和Saigon。到了2010年代中期,它已出现在全国各地的菜单上,尽管Hue以外的版本通常更甜,且对盐比例的把控不够精准。

    玻璃杯中装有冰咖啡,杯中插着一面越南国旗搅拌棒,放在木桌上。

    摄影:🇻🇳🇻🇳Nguyễn Tiến Thịnh 🇻🇳🇻🇳,来自Pexels

    为什么它在 Hue 特别受欢迎

    Hue的咖啡文化比Saigon(사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン)喧闹、快节奏的ca phe sua da场景,或是Hanoi著名的蛋咖啡仪式感要安静且讲究得多。当地人倾向于坐得更久,点得更少,并非常关注杯中的品质。这座城市作为帝国都城,几个世纪以来形成的饮食文化一直倾向于平衡与克制,而非过度。用咸味元素来驯服苦味,而不是用甜味去掩盖,正好契合了这种审美。

    盐咖啡也与Hue的零食文化完美搭配。这座城市以风味鲜明的小吃而闻名——“banh beo”、“banh nam”、“nem lui”——与这些小吃搭配时,略带咸味的咖啡比甜腻的咖啡更合适。

    在 Hue 品尝盐咖啡的去处

    Cafe Muoi — Dinh Tien Hoang街

    这是盐咖啡的发源地,原版依然值得一试。店面很小,上午时分就会坐满。点一份冷饮(ca phe muoi da),价格约为30,000 VND。这里的咸奶油比大多数模仿者更浓稠,底部的咖啡也确实非常浓郁。

    Cong Ca Phe — Hung Vuong街

    这家全国连锁店也有自己的盐咖啡版本。虽然没那么传统,但品质稳定,如果你正好在Trang Tien桥附近,这里很方便。价格在35,000–45,000 VND之间。

    无名街头摊位 — Le Loi街和Chu Van An街

    沿着香江(Huong River)平行的街区,有许多摆着塑料凳的小咖啡摊,过去几年里它们都将ca phe muoi加入了菜单。品质参差不齐,但价格降至20,000–25,000 VND,而且你是坐在江边,而不是在游客区。值得小试一把。

    Hue的一座优雅的越南建筑,在花园环境中展示了传统风格和鲜艳的装饰。

    摄影:Minh Lê,来自Pexels

    Hue 之外的 Ca Phe Muoi

    Hanoi(하노이 / 河内 / ハノイ)和Saigon现在都有各自的版本。在Hanoi,巴亭区(Ba Dinh)和还剑区(Hoan Kiem)的一些咖啡馆提供这种饮品,通常盐放得较少,炼乳放得较多。在Saigon,它往往作为菜单上的其他区域特色饮品出现——有时做得不错,有时则明显是随手之作。如果你在Hue喝过正宗的,就会发现其中的差距。

    话虽如此,如果你在去Hue之前或之后会造访Hoi An(호이안 / 会安 / ホイアン)或Da Nang,这两个城市也都有这种饮品,Hoi An古镇的一些咖啡馆做得相当地道。虽然这不再是Hue的专属体验,但Hue依然是这款饮品最能体现其精髓的地方——那种缓慢的节奏、浓郁的咖啡,以及那种坐下来细细品味的文化。

    实用贴士

    Hue的大多数ca phe muoi默认提供冷饮——如果你想要热的,请说明“nong”。如果你的咖啡因耐受度较低,请注意罗布斯塔咖啡基底非常浓郁;这可不是一款温和的晨间饮品。在当地小店预算25,000–35,000 VND,知名咖啡馆价格略高。