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越南春节期间:如何巧妙利用假期闭店时间进行10天旅行 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Itineraries · all · hanoi

越南春节期间:如何巧妙利用假期闭店时间进行10天旅行

大多数游客对春节期间的闭店感到恐慌。只要路线规划得当——先去海滩,提前游览Hanoi,节后再访寺庙——春节反而成了游览越南的最佳时机。

Nam Nguyen 撰写May 30, 20265 分钟阅读
A woman browses items at a bustling Hanoi market during Lunar New Year celebrations.
↑ A woman browses items at a bustling Hanoi market during Lunar New Year celebrations.Photo by Dang Hong on Pexels
Tags
#tet#festivals#itinerary#beach#pagoda#hanoi#hue#hoi an#phu quoc#flower market#seasonal travel
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5 Weekend Escapes from Hanoi: An Annual Rotation

在“Tet”(农历新年)期间游览越南,这要么是一场灾难,要么是一次启示,完全取决于你的行程安排。街道空荡,餐馆关门,寺庙却人满为患。如果安排不当,你可能会花三天时间吃便利店的三明治;如果安排得当,你将能赶上花市、空旷的海滩,以及烟雾缭绕、挤满身着盛装家庭的寺庙。

以下是一份10天的行程,围绕着那些在假期依然开放的场所,以及那些正因为假期才更值得一游的景点而设计。

第1–3天 — 节前的Hanoi

在Tet(越南春节)开始前两三天飞往Hanoi。这段时间是假期中最被低估的窗口期。城市装饰一新,充满活力,且一切运作正常。

第一个上午去Hang Luoc街,逛逛占据了老城区北缘的花市。商贩们从Tay Ho周边的农场运来金桔树、桃花和菊花。这里喧闹、混乱,但每一分钟都值得。记得带现金——一棵像样的金桔树价格在200,000–500,000 VND之间,取决于大小,而且商贩们在节前三天通常不接受讨价还价。

下午,步行前往Hoan Kiem Lake,晚餐前逛逛老城区。趁着还能吃上的时候,去尝尝“Bun Cha”——许多最好的摊位会在整个Tet周关门。位于Le Van Huu街的Bun Cha Huong Lien,即2016年Barack Obama和Anthony Bourdain曾光顾的那家店,营业时间比大多数店都要长。去之前确认一下,但它绝对值得一试。

第2天,尽早去Tran Quoc Pagoda——如果可能的话在早上8点前——然后去Temple of Literature,该景点在假期期间有部分开放时间。位于Nguyen Huu Huan街Cafe Giang的“Egg coffee”是必点项目,这家咖啡馆在Tet期间照常营业。

第3天:城市开始进入休假状态。Dong Xuan Market中午左右就会收摊。街头小吃也逐渐减少。这是你该离开的信号。

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第4–6天 — 当所有人都在家时,去Phu Quoc

飞往南部的Phu Quoc。岛上的度假村、海滩酒吧和酒店餐厅在Tet期间会持续营业,不会中断——旅游基础设施不像家庭经营的街头小吃摊那样会关门。这是本行程的核心逻辑:闭店对大陆的街头小吃影响最大,而海滩度假区几乎不受影响。

西侧的Long Beach (Bai Truong)有一长串中高端度假村。根据是否提前预订,一间像样的房间每晚价格在800,000–2,000,000 VND之间。一定要提前预订。Tet是国内旅游高峰期,房间很快就会订满。

这三天行程刻意放慢节奏。游泳、在度假村用餐、骑摩托车去Duong Dong周边的胡椒农场看看。市中心附近的鱼露市场照常营业——Phu Quoc的“nuoc mam”(鱼露)值得带回家,商贩们把Tet周视为促销机会,而不是休息时间。

第6天晚上:飞往Da Nang。

越南Hanoi,Hoan Kiem Lake上被郁郁葱葱的绿色植物环绕的Turtle Tower风景。

图片来源:Nguyen Ngoc Tien,来自Pexels

第7–8天 — Tet的第三和第四天,在Hoi An

到了Tet的第三天,Hoi An的古镇开始重新开放。裁缝店、丝绸店和许多餐馆重新开张——这座城镇对游客的商业依赖度太高,无法长时间关闭。这几天的氛围非常特别:红灯笼依然点亮,家庭商铺里的香火依然缭绕,游客比一月份的平时少得多。

早餐吃一碗“cao lau”。这种面条——据说是用镇上一口特定水井的水制作的——在Tet的第三天,Bach Dang街沿线和室内市场的摊位上又重新开始供应了。一碗面大约35,000–50,000 VND。

第8天,租一辆自行车骑行4公里向南前往My Son Sanctuary。这座占婆寺庙群在Tet期间开放——这是一个有管理时间和国际游客的联合国教科文组织遗址,因此假期对运营几乎没有影响。这里比平时更安静,而这种宁静在这里很重要;你需要空间来阅读4世纪的塔基,而不必担心身后有旅游团。

或者,乘船前往Cu Lao Cham游玩一天。渡轮通常每天早上从Cua Dai Beach出发;请在当地确认时间表。

越南Hanoi,Hoan Kiem Lake上被郁郁葱葱的绿色植物环绕的Turtle Tower风景。

图片来源:Nguyen Ngoc Tien,来自Pexels

第9–10天 — Hue:寺庙与节后的活力

从Da Nang乘火车前往Hue——行程2.5小时,软座票价约100,000–160,000 VND。穿过Lang Co并翻越Hai Van Pass的这段旅程,非常值得选一个靠窗的座位。

Tet的第四和第五天,Hue正是此行的终点。Thien Mu Pagoda和皇家陵墓——包括Khai Dinh陵和Tu Duc陵——都已开放,吸引着越南家庭前来祭拜。这不是为了游客的表演,而是真正的Hue家庭身着“ao dai”为祖先烧香。你只需做一个礼貌的旁观者。

至于食物,到Tet的第四天,“bun bo Hue”会全面回归。这种肉汤——比Hanoi风格的Pho更辣、更浓郁——在Dong Ba市场周边的摊位有售,市场此时已部分重新开放。一碗面价格在40,000–60,000 VND,在经历了一周的度假村自助餐后,这碗面每一分钱都花得值。

第10天从Da Nang或Phu Bai(Hue的机场)飞回家。

实用建议

请在1月中旬之前预订所有航班和度假村住宿——Tet期间的国内航线会售罄,且临近假期时价格会飙升30–60%。第1–3天和第9–10天请携带比平时更多的现金,因为在假期周期间,小城市的ATM机排队可能会很长。Tet的具体日期每年随农历变化,因此在确定行程前,请务必确认除夕的具体日期。