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🇨🇳 Travel Tips · south · vung-tau

Vung Tau的鲸鱼节:走进渔民社区最神圣的仪式

每年农历八月十六和十七,Vung Tau的渔民社区都会齐聚一堂,举行“Le Hoi Ngu Ong”——这是一个为期两天的仪式,旨在纪念作为水手守护神的鲸鱼。

Nam Nguyen 撰写May 30, 20264 分钟阅读
Artisans crafting incense sticks outdoors at a Vietnamese workshop.
↑ Artisans crafting incense sticks outdoors at a Vietnamese workshop.Photo by HONG SON on Pexels
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#vung tau#whale festival#le hoi ngu ong#fishing culture#southern vietnam#temples#lunar calendar#cultural festivals#local rituals#boat procession
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Vung Tau 很容易被看作是 Saigon 周末度假的海滨胜地——烤海鲜、晒得黝黑的游客、排队等轮渡的摩托车。但到了农历八月十六和十七(通常在公历十月),这座城市的渔区就会以完全不同的频率运作。这就是“Le Hoi Ngu Ong”——鲸鱼节,它属于那些真正以水为生的人们。

这个节日的真正意义

鲸鱼崇拜——在越南语中称为“ca Ong”,意为“鱼王”——在越南南部海岸根深蒂固。从 Vung Tau 一直到湄公河三角洲,渔民社区几个世纪以来一直崇拜鲸鱼,他们相信,游近船只或在村庄附近搁浅的鲸鱼,是作为神圣的守护者而非仅仅是死亡。当鲸鱼被冲上岸时,社区会举行隆重的葬礼。三年后,人们会将骨头挖出、清洗干净,并供奉在“lang ca Ong”(鲸鱼庙)中。

Vung Tau 最主要的鲸鱼庙位于 Thang Tam 渔村区的 Hoang Hoa Tham 街,距离后滩(Back Beach)附近的旅游主干道仅几公里。庙里供奉着真正的鲸鱼骨架——有些长达五六米——陈列在正殿的漆盒中。这非常引人注目,与你在大型文化遗址中看到的那些经过修饰的文化展示完全不同。

这个节日既是寺庙的周年纪念日,也是一场集体祈祷,祈求风平浪静、渔获丰收,并保佑渔民们在接下来的海上作业季节平安归来。

为期两天的活动安排

第一天——游行与祭祀

第一天以在 Thang Tam 社区举行的正式游行拉开帷幕。渔船船主、社区长者和当地渔业合作社的代表们穿过街道,手持香火、漆器供品和仪式用的轿子。这里的氛围是庄重的,而非表演性的——这不是为了游客而特意策划的,这正是它值得参加的原因。

在寺庙里,祭司们主持“le ruoc”(迎神仪式),邀请“ca Ong”的灵魂来主持节日。供品包括整只烤猪、糯米、水果和米酒。从清晨开始,寺庙大门周围就弥漫着浓郁的香火味。

到了下午,舞狮和舞龙队会在庙前的庭院表演。鼓声响亮、持续不断,如果你能放下手机,会完全沉浸在其中。

第二天——船队游行

这是视觉上的重头戏。装饰一新的渔船——挂满了旗帜、鲜花和纸灯笼——沿着 Vung Tau 的海岸线排成纵队航行。船员们身着传统服装。一艘载有鲸鱼灵位的仪式船引领着整个船队。

船队游行通常在上午中段开始,在半岛北侧渔港附近的码头观看效果最好,距离市中心的后滩大约 2 公里。上午 8 点前到达可以让你避开人群,并在当地电视台摄像机架设好之前获得清晰的视野。

第二天晚上会有“hat boi”——在寺庙外的临时舞台上表演的越南传统南派歌剧。演出持续到深夜,通常在晚上 10 点以后,且免费观看。即使听不懂剧情,其精致的服装和风格化的动作也值得你花上一小时欣赏。

文化仪式,一名男子在传统环境中展示大型鱼类供品。

图片来源:Pexels 上的 HONG SON

游客可以做什么,不可以做什么

节日期间,寺庙和庭院对外界开放,无需门票。需要注意的基本寺庙礼仪是:穿着得体(遮住肩膀和膝盖),进入内殿前脱鞋,不要用闪光灯拍摄鲸鱼骨架,也不要触碰祭坛上的任何物品。

主祭坛上不断有祭祀活动。如果你想参与,大门外的摊贩出售小捆香,价格约为 10,000–20,000 VND。只要你表现出尊重,没有人会拒绝你或让你感到格格不入。

两天里,寺庙周边都会聚集许多食品摊位——这是尝试“banh canh”(海鲜浓汤面)、新鲜的“goi cuon”(虾肉春卷)以及按重量出售的烤鱿鱼的好地方。在摊位上吃一顿丰盛的饭菜大约需要 50,000–80,000 VND。

工匠在户外制作香条。

图片来源:Pexels 上的 HONG SON

交通与时间建议

Vung Tau 距离 Saigon 125 公里,乘车前往,或从 Bach Dang 码头乘坐高速轮渡约 80 分钟即可到达。轮渡比堵在高速公路上要舒适得多。轮渡每天往返多次,单程票价约为 250,000–300,000 VND。

农历日期每年对应的公历日期都会变动——预订前请查询越南农历转换器。2024 年,农历八月十六在 10 月中旬。提前两到三周预订住宿是明智的;由于节日周末恰逢越南暑期后的国内旅游旺季,Vung Tau 的酒店往往会爆满。

实用贴士

Lang Ca Ong 寺庙位于 Thang Tam 区的 Hoang Hoa Tham 街——任何骑摩托车出租车的当地人都知道它。节日主要吸引来自 Ba Ria-Vung Tau 省和 Saigon 的越南游客,因此英语标识很少;建议携带 Google 翻译以查看寺庙内的文字内容。这两天是公共文化活动,而非限制性仪式,但请将此空间视为一个正在运作的礼拜场所,而不是拍照背景。