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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

Banh Khoai:为什么顺化的版本胜过所有仿制品

顺化的Banh khoai比其南方的“表亲”Banh xeo更小、更酥脆、风味更细腻——单是那蘸酱就值得你专程跑一趟。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Outdoor cafe seating with vibrant food mural on green wall, showcasing local cuisine in a city environment.
↑ Outdoor cafe seating with vibrant food mural on green wall, showcasing local cuisine in a city environment.Photo by HONG SON on Pexels
Tags
#banh khoai#hue#guide#food#central vietnam#street food#rice crepe
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    Hue(顺化)的许多做法都与越南其他地区不同,其特色的馅料米饼也不例外。“Banh khoai”——字面意思是“快乐饼”——乍一看像是“banh xeo”(越南煎饼)的迷你版,但如果你把它们放在一起吃,很快就能发现明显的区别。

    Banh khoai 的独特之处

    南方的 Banh xeo 饼皮宽大、薄,是在大平底锅里煎制的,与其说是饼,不如说更像是一种折叠的薄饼。而 Banh khoai 是在直径约 12 厘米的小型铸铁模具中制作的,盖上盖子压制,使两面同时受热。最终成品是一种更厚实、结构更紧凑的煎饼,拥有真正酥脆的外壳——不仅仅是微黄,而是像华夫饼那样极致的酥脆。面糊的基本配方同样是米粉、姜黄和椰奶,但烹饪方式决定了一切。

    馅料的设计非常克制:几只虾、一两片五花肉、一小把豆芽。Hue(顺化)的美食很少过分堆砌。你在餐桌上添加的配料——新鲜香草、生菜、青香蕉片、杨桃——才是提升风味的关键。

    灵魂在于蘸酱

    如果你只吃过配有 nuoc cham(鱼露、青柠、辣椒和少量糖)的 Banh xeo,那么 Banh khoai 的蘸酱绝对会让你在咬下一口时停下来细细品味。这是一种浓稠的浅棕色花生芝麻酱,加入了少许发酵虾酱和甜猪肝调味。它的质地比你在 Saigon 或 Da Nang 的 Banh xeo 摊位上找到的任何酱料都更接近沙爹酱。它浓郁而不厚重,能完美地挂在饼皮上,这是鱼露做不到的。

    这种酱料——当地人称之为“tuong”——是区分正宗 Hue Banh khoai 与仿制品的明确标志。顺化以外的餐馆有时会在菜单上提供 Banh khoai,但配的是普通的 nuoc cham。那根本不是这道菜的精髓。

    木桌上摆放着包括青柠、花生和各种酱料在内的调味品。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    在顺化去哪儿吃

    Dinh Tien Hoang 街的 Lac Thien / Lac Thanh

    这两家位于香江(Huong River)南岸 Dinh Tien Hoang 街的相邻餐馆,自 20 世纪 60 年代以来一直供应 Banh khoai。两家店的老板是亲戚,几十年来一直保持着良性竞争。两家店味道都很好;当地人对于哪家更好吃也各执一词。一份三块 Banh khoai 的价格约为 50,000–70,000 VND,配有一篮新鲜香草和正宗的 tuong 蘸酱。每天约 10:00 至 20:00 营业,但在繁忙的日子里,下午晚些时候就会售罄。

    Pham Thi Lien 街的 Quan Hanh

    这是一个规模较小、游客较少的店,位于 Imperial Citadel(顺化皇城)区域以南约 1 公里处。这里的模具比 Lac Thien 的稍微小一点,这意味着相对于馅料,饼皮的表面积更大——口感更酥脆。价格从 40,000 VND 起。营业时间为 09:00–17:00,周日休息。

    Cho An Cuu 的街头摊贩

    位于城市南部的 An Cuu 市场,从 07:00 到 11:00 左右会有几位妇女用便携式炉灶制作 Banh khoai。这是最便宜、最地道的版本——两块饼仅需 20,000–25,000 VND,站在塑料桌旁吃即可。这里的酱料有时比坐店餐馆的更稀、甜味更淡,有些人反而更喜欢这种口味。

    正确的吃法

    用一张干米纸(banh trang)包裹每一块 Banh khoai,放入几片生菜、紫苏和盘中提供的任何新鲜香草。将整个包裹蘸入 tuong 酱中食用。米纸会因为内部煎饼的热气而稍微变软,从而在煎饼的酥脆和包裹的韧劲之间形成对比。像某些面向游客的餐馆那样用叉子直接吃而不包裹,完全错失了这道菜的精髓。

    盘中放着装满虾和蔬菜的正宗越南春卷特写。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Quang Nguyen Vinh

    在顺化以外的表现

    Banh khoai 出现在 Hanoi 和 Saigon(西贡)的菜单上,通常是在越南中部特色餐厅。烹饪方法有时是对的,但 tuong 蘸酱几乎总是被简化或替换了。部分原因是食材的获取难度——优质的发酵虾酱和新鲜猪肝酱并不总是容易买到——另一部分原因是这道菜并非当地原生,厨师们会根据当地口味进行调整。如果你看到它,值得点来尝尝,但请降低预期。

    如果你已经在顺化参观 Tomb of Khai Dinh(启定陵)或漫步在皇城,花个上午晚些时候的时间在 Dinh Tien Hoang 街的店里吃一份 Banh khoai,花费几乎可以忽略不计,却能让你最直观地感受到顺化饮食文化为何在全国独树一帜。

    实用小贴士

    顺化大多数 Banh khoai 店在傍晚前就会关门,所以请计划在午餐时间前往,而不是晚餐。上述所有地点均只收现金。过敏提示:tuong 蘸酱含有花生和虾酱——如果有相关过敏史,请务必注意。