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  3. 中部海岸美食之旅:5天玩转Hue、Da Nang和Hoi An
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

中部海岸美食之旅:5天玩转Hue、Da Nang和Hoi An

在五天时间里,深入品味越南最独特的区域饮食文化——皇城Hue的宫廷风味、Da Nang的海鲜盛宴,以及Hoi An巷弄里令人着迷的特色面食。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Colorful Vietnamese Banh Mi rolls surrounded by fresh vegetables, showcasing vibrant culinary presentation.
↑ Colorful Vietnamese Banh Mi rolls surrounded by fresh vegetables, showcasing vibrant culinary presentation.Photo by Change C.C on Pexels
Tags
#foodie itinerary#food#central coast#street food#noodles#seafood#5 day itinerary#hue cuisine#hoi an food
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    Bun Bo Hue: History, Broth, and How to Order Like You Know What You're Doing

    越南中部海岸是越南饮食文化不再单一的转折点。Hue 的烹饪离不开虾酱和辣椒的火热;Da Nang 的餐桌上堆满了烤鱼和蛤蜊;而 Hoi An 则拥有属于自己的独特面食、煎饼和饮食逻辑。在这三座城市度过五天,虽然无法尝遍所有美味,但也足以让你领略其精髓。

    第1天 — Hue:初抵与皇家粮仓

    乘飞机或火车抵达 Hue,第一晚可以吃得轻松些。步行至香江(Perfume River)附近的 Dong Ba Market,站着品尝地道小吃。点一碗“bun bo Hue”——这种带有浓郁柠檬草香气、口感辛辣的牛肉米粉是 Hue 的骄傲,也是越南其他地区难以复刻的经典。一碗价格约在 35,000–50,000 VND。汤底应呈现深橙红色;如果颜色太淡,建议换一家摊位。

    地理方位提示:Hue 的市区非常紧凑。Imperial Citadel 位于香江北岸,而大部分餐饮和住宿都集中在南岸。

    第2天 — Hue:深入探索

    早餐可以在 Truong Tien 桥附近的“banh canh”店解决。这种由木薯粉或米粉制成的粗面条汤,是 Hue 被低估的早餐主食。推荐尝试蟹肉口味(banh canh cua);其汤底浓稠鲜美,足以让你元气满满地开启一整天。

    上午,进入皇城(Citadel)。虽然御膳房早已不在,但其饮食遗产在 Dong Ba 市场周边的“com hen”摊位中得以留存。这是一道冷食——在碎米上铺满小蛤蜊、碎香草、烤花生、炸猪皮和虾酱。听起来似乎杂乱无章,但味道却出奇地和谐。

    午餐是品尝正宗皇家菜肴的好机会。位于 Nguyen Binh Khiem 的 Tinh Gia Vien 餐厅提供 Hue 宫廷菜肴套餐——包括莲子汤、馅料可丽饼、香蕉叶蒸米糕等,人均约 180,000–250,000 VND。记得提前预订,这里非常受欢迎。

    傍晚时分,骑摩托车向南行驶 7 公里去参观嗣德陵(Tomb of Tu Duc)。比起建筑本身,穿过松树林前往陵墓的这段路更值得回味,它能让你体会到皇室对美学的极致追求。回到市区,在 Pham Ngu Lao 街背包客聚集地的“bia hoi”角落结束这一天——一杯扎啤仅需 10,000–15,000 VND,配上烤猪肉串,惬意无比。

    在越南 Hue 的市场中,拍摄到的一碗配有新鲜香草、辣椒和鱼露的越南米粉。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Pew Nguyen

    第3天 — Da Nang:海岸与烧烤

    从 Hue 到 Da Nang 距离为 100 公里。火车行程约 2.5 小时,会穿过海云岭(Hai Van Pass),非常值得坐在窗边欣赏风景。巴士虽然更快,但会错过沿途美景。

    Da Nang 的饮食特色建立在得天独厚的地理位置上。放下行李后,直接前往 Han Market,一楼的摊位售卖“banh xeo”——酥脆的米粉煎饼,内馅包裹着虾、猪肉和豆芽。Da Nang 版本的煎饼比南部风格更小、更脆;用米纸包上香草,蘸着鱼露(nuoc cham)食用,风味绝佳。

    晚餐可以前往 My Khe 海滩附近 Tran Hung Dao 街的海鲜餐厅一条街。点一份葱油烤扇贝(so diep nuong mo hanh)、柠檬草蒸蛤蜊,以及当晚新鲜的整鱼。预算人均 200,000–350,000 VND,包含几杯啤酒。避开那些带有图片菜单和拉客人员的店——往海滩后方走一个街区,价格会更实惠。

    如果还有精力,Bach Dang 街的夜市营业至午夜,提供各种街头小吃和廉价的冷啤酒,伴着 Han 江的夜景非常舒适。

    第4天 — 从 Da Nang 到 Hoi An:面食之城

    从 Da Nang 向南前往 Hoi An 距离为 30 公里,开车约 45 分钟,骑摩托车沿海岸公路行驶约 1 小时。如果天气晴朗,强烈建议骑摩托车。

    Hoi An 的美食支柱是两种难以在别处寻得的特色面食:“cao lau”和“mi quang”。Cao lau 比较特别——粗小麦面条配上切片猪肉、脆米饼,汤汁很少,更像是一种拌面。据说这种面条必须使用当地特定水井的水制作;这个故事或许带有旅游营销色彩,但其口感确实与越南其他地方的面食截然不同。在 Hoi An Central Market 的摊位可以买到,价格约 40,000 VND。

    Mi quang 是一种姜黄色的米粉,配有少量浓郁的汤汁——根据摊位不同,可选猪肉、虾或青蛙肉——上面撒上烤花生和一片米饼。这顿饭看起来像沙拉,吃起来却非常有饱腹感。Truong Dinh 街的 Ba Mua 是一个不错的选择,价格在 45,000–55,000 VND。

    下午漫步在 Hoi An 古镇的巷弄中——Tran Phu、Nguyen Thai Hoc、沿着河边的 Bach Dang。在狭窄的店屋咖啡馆里停下来,喝一杯“ca phe sua da”;古镇里有十几家很棒的咖啡馆。

    夜晚:河畔挂满了灯笼。在 Phuoc Hung 或 Bale Well 品尝“白玫瑰饺子”(banh bao vac),Bale Well 还提供可以自己在炭火上烤的猪肉串(thit nuong)。在 Bale Well 晚餐人均约 150,000–180,000 VND,并配有无限量供应的包菜香草。

    在越南 Da Nang 的鱼市场,一群工人在繁忙的市场活动中工作和休息。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 baolong thai

    第5天 — Hoi An:晨间市场与返程

    在旅游团抵达之前,早起去逛逛 Tran Quy Cap 街的早市。这里是当地人购物的地方:新鲜香草、活海鲜、整猪,还有早上 6 点开门的摊位售卖的“banh mi”。Hoi An 的 banh mi——尤其是 Le Loi 街的 Phuong's——被公认为标杆;面包比 Saigon 的标准款更轻、更脆,而且加入了更多新鲜香草。

    如果你要从 Da Nang 乘坐晚班飞机或火车,利用上午的时间再吃一碗 cao lau,在炎热来临前再逛逛古镇。

    实用贴士

    飞往 Hue(Phu Bai 机场)或 Da Nang 是通常的入境点;Da Nang 的航班连接更多。城市间的火车或包车交通非常方便且便宜——100 公里的 Hue–Da Nang 火车票价约 80,000–120,000 VND。如果主要在市场摊位和当地餐厅用餐,每日餐饮预算约为 300,000–500,000 VND;如果包含正餐和饮酒,预算建议翻倍。